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  • Volvo Penta 3.0L

    Hi,
    Just bought a 2005 Four Winns 170 with a Volvo Penta 3.0L in it. Did a bit of maintenance : all oils, power steering etc....Changed the impeller (the other one was still good, but did not want to take a chance). My question is the following : how do I know the impeller/ raw water pump is working? I started the boat with a hose in the fers water port. Started right up, but temperature seems to be going up fast. I shut down the engine when it reaches around 180. I'm just trying to figure out if the pump is pumping water. I'm not sure where to look or what to look for. After the first time I started it up, I pulled the raw water pump off to check and there was no damage to the impeller not did any water come out. What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated.
    Cheers!!

  • #2
    hose in the fers water port.
    Don't know what a fers is. If you mean attached muffs to the drive and the water didn't make it to the pump, then need to look at the drive.

    Disconnect the hose from the drive going to the pump and see if you can use a hose to flow water out of it

    Otherwise I need more explanation
    94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
    95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
    07 Seadoo GTX
    Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
    G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

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    • #3
      I meant to say fresh water inlet on the side of the motor. I also put muffs on the drive. I'm just not sure where is the water supposed to come out? I ran the motor for a couple of minutes and removed the water pump to inspect the impeller. Everything was ok : impeller still intact.

      Comment


      • #4
        What fresh water on the side of motor do you mean and are you saying you also had the muffs and hose on the drive at the same time ?

        Comment


        • #5
          Soory if I'm not making myself clear, english is not my first language. Yes I meant the fresh water on the side of the motor and no I did not have both at the sake time. Tried one then the other.

          Comment


          • #6
            What fresh water port?

            The 3.0 didnt come with one, and if its tee'd into the supply line, you most likely simply pumped water out the drive
            Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

            1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

            Past Boats
            1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
            2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
            1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

            What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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            • #7
              The motor was doing fine before replacing the impeller, so I'm thinking the hoses were installed on the pump backwards. Reason being, the motor heats up and impeller has no damage.

              An easy check, place muffs on, turn the water on full and there should be water leaking out the sides. Once the motor starts, there should be a lot less water leaking. If the leaking doesn't slow down, the hoses are on backwards.
              94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
              95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
              07 Seadoo GTX
              Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
              G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
                What fresh water port?

                The 3.0 didnt come with one, and if its tee'd into the supply line, you most likely simply pumped water out the drive
                So I should not use the port to run the boat? Only muffs?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by AllDodge View Post
                  The motor was doing fine before replacing the impeller, so I'm thinking the hoses were installed on the pump backwards. Reason being, the motor heats up and impeller has no damage.

                  An easy check, place muffs on, turn the water on full and there should be water leaking out the sides. Once the motor starts, there should be a lot less water leaking. If the leaking doesn't slow down, the hoses are on backwards.
                  Thank for your input. I did not remove the hoses from the pump when replacing the impeller. I put muffs on with the pump off and there was no water coming to the pump.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    In that case you have a clog in the drive or hose leading to the pump.
                    94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
                    95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
                    07 Seadoo GTX
                    Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
                    G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by AllDodge View Post
                      In that case you have a clog in the drive or hose leading to the pump.
                      Any idea how to get that uncloaged...assuming that is the problem.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        post a pic of the port

                        recommended using the muffs

                        if you have a clog, back-flush the lines
                        Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                        1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                        Past Boats
                        1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                        2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                        1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                        What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
                          post a pic of the port

                          recommended using the muffs

                          if you have a clog, back-flush the lines
                          Found this on iBoats : https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...if-it-has-this

                          Exact same model. It appears I can you this instead of muffs.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            With muffs on, should I get water flow at the pump (pump is removed)?
                            I'm also trying to figure out what is the normal operating temperature of the engine. Any idea? Idle sits at about 1100RPM's on the gage, temperature goes up with-in a a couple minutes to 180 degrees, I then stop the engine because gage goes up to 200 degrees, dont want to take any chances.

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                            • #15
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                              your water temp should be about 160 with a 160 degree thermostat, or 140 with a 140 degree thermostat

                              180 is too hot, and 200 is way to hot.
                              Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                              1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                              Past Boats
                              1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                              2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                              1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                              What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                              Comment

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