Water in oil

corvettedude

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Hey everyone tis the season lol...Water in oil.. I got a 2007 volvo 3.0 glp-e changed the oil and outdrive fluid last week and fired it up today in the driveway on the water hose and she ran just fine had her running for about 25 minutes and everything seemed cool, but tonight I just checked the oil and its pretty milky usually its so clear you can barely see it on the dip stick. So any thoughts I winterizied her last year the same as I have always had in previous years. How could I go about finding the cause? If I need a new block I would just buy a long block and swap over accessories and put it in myself. I feel bad going to a shop and asking them to check this and that just to say ok thanks i'll fix it myself. Does anyone think they would care I mean of course I would pay for any labor and if it was a manifold or head or headgasket issue i'd let them fix that but with the cheap price of a long block I could just pop it in myself in the event I had a cracked block.
 

alldodge

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Pressurize the block and listen for the leak. Its probably the block
Disconnect the hose going from the seawater pump to the thermostat and the hose going to the intake. Seal the ends so it can be pressurized
 

corvettedude

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So you think its probably the block? I took the riser off today and will remove the manifold tomorrow and pressurize the block. I ran antifreeze through it like normal last fall. Then I opened the block and manifold drains let it drain then refilled it with more antifreeze and it was in a garage all winter, non heated garage and it really didn't even get that cold around here last winter the winter before last we was sub zero several nights and was good then. when I was winterizing last fall I did have my impellor go out on me I was using one of those jugs you fill with 5 gallons of antifreeze and it suddenly stopped picking any up with about a gallon left in the jug. Could that few minutes of running with no water hurt anything that could cause a water in oil situation. Like cooking the head gasket or something it got warmer then normal got around 210 usually runs like 170. That's when I shut it down after seeing the temp gauge I ran back and seen it was no longer picking up the antifreeze.
 

alldodge

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A few minutes (as in minutes and not seconds) of running without water can heat thongs up fairly fast. If the head warped and gasket blew then water can get into the oil, but can also usually see water in a cylinder.

To winterize all the water has to come out first. Drains are removed, and a wire or something else is inserted into the hole and moved around to make sure nothing was blocking the drain (chunk or rust, sand, rock, other). Remove lower radiator hose and drain. Once all the water is removed your winterized, then if you wish, antifreeze can be used at full strength (RV stuff).

Most that use RV pour it into the block at the thermostat, less chance of wear on the impeller
 

QBhoy

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How did you run antifreeze through it and did you drain it first ? If you did it the terrible way of in through the drive then good chance it didn’t make it through the engine. Especially if the t stat didn’t open. Always best to either just completely drain it all or drain it and fill manually through t stat and hoses coming off it. Including the manifolds, water pump (if on the front) etc.
 

corvettedude

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i ran it to temp then ran antifreeze through one of those winterizing jugs, then the next day I went out and opened the drain plugs and lossened hoses and refilled manally with antifreeze basically the way you just said I have always done that way I figured the more antifreeze the better. I realize that it waste the 5 gallons I put the day before but seriously what is that stuff 5 dollars a gallon anyone who doesn't have an extra 25 bucks can't afford to boat. Plus I like to refill it with automotive antifreeze for the long haul to prevent corrosion and yes I collect it in the spring I don't let it pour on the groud.
 

corvettedude

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update on the other situation though, I rigged up a ghetto way of pressurizing my block. I disconnected the t stat hose going to the exhaust and i installed a tire valve stem there to pump air into the cooling system, then on the other t stat hose that goes to the raw water pump i installed a pressure gauge i'll take pics i know its redneck but its holding pressure lol. Anyway I pressurized to cooling system to 15 psi by adding air through that valve stem. I know its going in the block and everything becuase to test it i let all the pressure out by looseing the block water drain plug then refilled back to 15psi with air. Anyhow its held that 15 psi now for about and hour i assume that a good thing right?? How long should it hold that psi to prove no problems? I am going back later tonight when everything is quiet and put my ear to the dipstick and check it over all good to see if i hear air.
 

QBhoy

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Ok. But did you drain it once up to temp then run antifreeze through ? Good chance you have a weak mix at best if not. Maybe ?
 

corvettedude

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I have no clue what "drain it once up to temp" means all total the block and manifold was filled and drained 3 times with the 3rd being automotive antifreeze the first 2 that pink ****
 

jimmbo

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"drain it once up to temp" Drain it after the engine reaches operating temp

It sounds like some area didn't get any or enough Anti-Freeze. Did you drain the Exhaust Manifolds?
 

corvettedude

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yea I drained the manifold and refilled with antifreeze 3 times. The entire block and manifold were all drained and refilled 3 times with antifreeze. Any idea on the block pressure situation its held 15 psi for over 2 hours, lost about half a pound but one of my fitting has a very small leak. Is this a good sign?
 

corvettedude

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hey guys its been 8 hours since I filled the block with 15 psi of air pressure it now has 11 pounds and know for sure my homemade redneck gauge lol has a small leak I can't hear but when I spray soapy water on it it bubbles. Would a cracked block or head or head gasket hold pressure like that for that long? Tomorrow I will seal that gauge 100 percent but I believe that's the only place air is escaping? What else could be causing water in my oil? I took off the riser and it looks great. I think I will do another oil change and just see if I didn't just have condensation in my motor. Any thoughts?
 

alldodge

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To pressure test all water must be drained. If that is the case then you have a leak which only happens under higher pressures like a head gasket.


Have you looked at the plugs to see if there is any moisture?
 

corvettedude

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First of all thank you all dodge. Thanks for all your answers and for following the thread and posting back, I haven't had a chance to thank you yet. I just got home from work and we are having a pretty severe thunderstorm now but I am going head up to check the plugs once this is finished. I believe I got all the water out of the cooling system I drained the block before I ever put air into the system, and to check that my homemade device was working I would pressurize the block then open the block drain plug to let the blast of air escape to to make sure I getting pressure in there no more water came out when I did this. I was thinking a head gasket probably received more pressure than 15psi. Does it seem like my block and head itself are holding enough pressure to rule out cracked block or head i'm going to make my gauge 100 percent air tight and see if I can hold that 15 psi all night long it held it for about 3 hours yesterday before it fell any but like I said my homemade device does have a small leak. I listened through the valve cover last night and dipstick and I heard no air escaping anywhere
 

alldodge

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Right now you have something that doesn't happen very often.

Motor running fine and come spring, water in the oil but block is holding pressure. Right now have no idea where the water into the block is coming from
 

QBhoy

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Hope you get this sorted out. Although by pressure testing the way you are. It isn’t proving the integrity of the manifolds and risers.
What I was meaning about draining once up to temp is...
if you are running antifreeze through the way you do. You need to run it on the hose with water first. Until the engine gets up to temp. The thermo stat opens. Then quickly drain it all down. Block and manifolds etc. Then you connect your antifreeze set up and run it through. Anything other than this and you’ll obviously be mixing with residual water in there. I’m not a fan of this method at all. Many make it work. Too much to go wrong for my liking. Best either drain it all completely and poke the holes. Or drain it all completely, poke the holes and then fill with AF direct in through the hoses on t stat. Block and manifolds.
 

corvettedude

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Thank you for your replies too. The best way I can describe my winterization process is I do both methods I run to temp on the hose then let the antifreeze flow out of the jug and in. That jug has a junction with valves that lets me run on the hose then shut off water and open valve for antifreeze. Then the next day or a few days later I'll go back and drain the block and manifold and hoses something mentally about watching the pink flow out makes me feel better just confirmation that it was in there. Then I will manually fill the block and manifold. I even keep the drain plugs for a few gallons just to flush it out. Then finally I fill and leave it filled with automotive antifreeze. All together I'll probably use 10 or 12 gallons of the pink and then about 4 gallons of green. I know if wasteful but I really don't care the pink is cheap.
 

corvettedude

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The block held pressure for over 24 hours it had 8 pounds this evening I started with 15. My gauge is leaking so I assume that could have let those 7 poiunds out. I crack the block drain open and the remaining air came out pretty forcefully. I got my gauge as airtight as possible but its still leaking slightly its just hard to clamp that gauge tight to that radiator hose. So I will check it tomorrow and if it leaks less than today then i'll know any air I lost came through that gauge because I now have a better seal there. I can't see any water on the spark plugs either. I'm gonna do a few oil changes to flush the motor out real good I guess I will just see if there is anymore water once I put new oil in. Maybe it is this condensation stuff I read about. Question about the oil though I don't have any boating stores around I use sierra 30 weight oil I order online. Would it be safe to use a quality synthetic automotive oil like mobil one for just flushing the motor. I'll only be idleing it on the hose for 25 minutes or so just to flush it out and see if I get anymore water in oil.
 
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corvettedude

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Hope you get this sorted out. Although by pressure testing the way you are. It isn’t proving the integrity of the manifolds and risers.
What I was meaning about draining once up to temp is...
if you are running antifreeze through the way you do. You need to run it on the hose with water first. Until the engine gets up to temp. The thermo stat opens. Then quickly drain it all down. Block and manifolds etc. Then you connect your antifreeze set up and run it through. Anything other than this and you’ll obviously be mixing with residual water in there. I’m not a fan of this method at all. Many make it work. Too much to go wrong for my liking. Best either drain it all completely and poke the holes. Or drain it all completely, poke the holes and then fill with AF direct in through the hoses on t stat. Block and manifolds.

I think I may have found a way to pressurize the manifold but not the riser. I'm gonna take a square piece of rubber mat and cut to size and make bolt holes in the corners and put it in between the riser and the manifold and tighten the riser down and connect the hose with the valve stem to the end of the manifold where the hose goes in and pump some air in there. I wont have my gauge to read but I could check the valve stem with a tire pressure gauge. It won't be incredibly accurate, we all know that puff of air that's released when you check a tire but it will show if there is a pressure loss or not. As for the riser I have no clue how to block it off to test.
 
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