Water in oil

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
Well I'm completely clueless as to what my problem is lol. Soon as I get a chance I'm gonna haul her to the vp dealer I guess. Might fire it up again to see what happens with the cheap oil once again see if I can go 2 for 2 on non milky oil already 2 for 2 on milky with sierra.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,705
Easy way to find out if there is water in oil that cannot be seen is put it in a pan on the stove. Once it reaches 212 it will bubble, pop, but this does tank a pan large enough to hold all the oil that came out of the pan

My guess is your leak is in the intake, the lower section is thin
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
It is water and not foam, I took some of the milky oil and poured it in a jug of used oil I had. It was a clear jug the milkyness went straight down and settled on the bottom. In the depths of the internet I found a forum and someone had wrote something about idleing on the water causing water ingestion through the exhaust and that a boat should be ran above 1000 rpm idleing on the hose. Y'all ever hear of anything like that? Of course in that forum no one ever posted a final solution (makes me so mad when people do that). I changed my impeller before all this happened it wasn't bad but I've always considered that a maintenance item not a wait until it goes out item, anyhow is there something i could've messed up there? A seal or something I missed or broke letter water into the timing chain cover? I installed the big o ring that goes on the impeller housing.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,705
To ingest water thru the exhaust the motor needs a high lift cam (exp: motor making 500+ HP), or 10 friends are sitting on the stern in the water, so it dips way deep in the water.

In short your motor is not a high performance build (compression only doesn't do it) so there would be no concern
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
She's going to the doctor on July 2nd. It's a mercury place but they said since it's the same block as merc theyll take a look.
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
Thanks man and thanks for your help. I had called 2 other VP places one was extremely rude and the the others were super nice but were adamant it was a cracked block no matter what the pressure test said. They can't even touch it for 5 weeks so I'm on there list on case this merc dealer can't figure anything out. I guess I'll run her this weekend and see what happens with the regular oil. See if I have another repeat of non milkyness lol.
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
Pressurized the cooling system again just for fun since it only takes all of 5 minutes to hook my gauge up. Its held 20psi for 48 hours hasn't moved the slightest bit. Hoping to start it this week and see what happens again since I'm just playing the waitin game anyways.
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
new update guys, the cooling system held 20psi for a full 8 days and never lost a pound and I also ran the boat today for about 40 minutes checking the oil every 10 minutes or so and level is good and no milky oil this time either. It currently has Walmart brand 10w30 synthetic for flushing purposes. Tomorrow weather permitting, I am gonna drain that and fill with mobil one again and just take it out on the water for a test run. Of course i'll update but if it does fine tomorrow I may not even take it the shop on Tuesday. Is it completely necessary to run "marine" oil or will any quality synthetic be ok? Any ideas on the weight I run sierra straight 30 (or at least I did lol) which is the weight my motor originally called for but now volvo only makes 10w40 and recommends that. Is any quality 10w40 ok? Not just for idling and flushing I mean for actually taking out and running.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,705
Is it completely necessary to run "marine" oil or will any quality synthetic be ok?

Watch out your going to turn this into an oil thread
There is no such thing as "marine" oil, only oil a marine company pushes as what to use.

I just look for API certification on the back of the container. Walmart doesn't make oil, they just have their label on the container just like Merc.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,829
As far as oil...
these engines are not that fussy...I would avoid a 10-anything conventional multigrade but I would use
straight 30, 40 or 15w40 or, Merc 25/40. I think you could also use a 10/30 or 10/40 syn. Go by your hot slow idle oil pressure reading, if you have 20 psi or greater after running on plane, what you have is good enough. The main reason why manufacturers specified either straight weights, or syn 10/30 40 or the Merc 25/40 is that these engines usually do not have oil coolers. The thought is that oil temps could get high enough to break down conventional multi vis oils at high revs boats run at due to high oil temps.
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
I did watch the oil level too since you said water and synthetic oil dont mix I took out just what I put in. Only other thing I done different was I turned the water hose off when the motor wasn't running and made sure the bow was up some.
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
Hey guys was out on the water today for about an hour, ran it the whole time other than an a trip back to the dock about every 15 minutes to check the oil. No sign of water and the oil is right where it should be. Ran good and kept good oil pressure right now i'm running Mobil One high mileage 10w40. 5 and 10w30 is all I could find in non high mileage formula. I might consider running Mobil One 15w50 is that to high?. but anyway I won't let oil talk go any further than that last question. I am thinking I may be able to enjoy the 4th now out on the water. I just figured that wasn't gonna happen this year, I'll be sure to update after a few more trips and i'll probably just cancel my appointment to get her looked at Tuesday. I really don't know what they could do right now.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,705
Changing to 15w50 will increase pressure but higher pressure doesn't mean more protection. It can actually have reduced protection because there may not be enough oil in areas because of reduced viscosity. You have a standard build so I would suggest sticking with manufactures recommendations
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,829
Agreed, I've heard that higher vis oil is actually not advised, but never saw evidence of supposed damage it could cause. If Volvo said syn 10w-40 then so be it. I use the conventional Merc 25/40 in mine. I can tell you this....I had salt water in the engine back in '16 took me a while to figure out what was happening (blown HGs) but when I took it apart, very little to no corrosion on the pushrods, rocker arms, rocker nuts, studs, etc. When I pulled out the hydraulic roller lifters one by one to check, the lifters looked new, no corrosion no wear, same with the cam lobes. So I believe their claims of better corrosion resistance than standard oil....
 

corvettedude

Seaman
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
62
I don't know if I should start a new thread for this or not but one other issue I had sunday and have kinda had for a long time is the boat not wanting to return to idle after a run. It leads to a lot of dieseling sometimes. At first start up it idles close to where it should (but a little rough I think a tune up and timing is needed soon) but after a run when I put it in neutral it goes up to like 2000rpm I can grab the carb linkage and put it back down to where it should be. Last year while idling in the driveway I tried adjusting the idle down but just one turn of the eyelet would idle it down to low to run. How can I adjust that enough that it returns to proper idle after a run but not so much that it won't run on first start up? Carb was put on by a VP dealer in the spring of 2017 my original holley was recalled and got that new one installed for free.
PS it done the same thing with the old carb too.
 
Last edited:

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,705
You need to adjust the throttle cable and the idle screw.
With the motor at temp, remove the throttle cable and adjust the idle with idle screw while holding the throttle plate closed. Once idle is correct, adjust throttle cable so the cable just slides into position. Remove cable again and turn adjusting nut one turn more so that the cable has a slight push to hold the carb clsoed
 
Top