Water in oil

Bondo

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As for the riser I have no clue how to block it off to test.

Ayuh,..... The only test for a riser/ elbow is a visual inspection,.....
 

corvettedude

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I gonna go ahead and call out it done on the second pressure test with a bunch of Teflon tape and clamps I made my homemade pressure checker 100 percent airtight and that block and head have held 15 psi for like 36 hours. Gonna move on to testing the manifold and just change the oil and run it again I guess. I'll post pics of it all when I can incase someone else comes across this thread looking for how to pressure test a block, and of course I will be sure to post the ultimate solution when I find it. If I post pics of the riser would someone be able to see if it looks the way it should. I got nothing but black carbon in the exhaust port no rust in that part anywhere I assume that mean no water has been in there.
 

alldodge

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I don't see the riser being cranked from the winter, water always drains from them when the motor shuts down.

Is there any possibility of happen to pour AF in the oil when winterizing?
 

corvettedude

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I don't see the riser being cranked from the winter, water always drains from them when the motor shuts down.

Is there any possibility of happen to pour AF in the oil when winterizing?

Not that I could think of, and it's been in the garage since October so no rain water issue. I changed the oil last week so it's not the same oil it had in it when it was winterized. The oil that sit in there all winter looked fine but I did notice a weird foamy slim on top. Maybe it had all winter to separate completely and all water was on top.
 

Bondo

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Maybe it had all winter to separate completely and all water was on top.

Ayuh,..... Water is heavier than oil, when it separates, the water is on the bottom of the oil, not on top,.....
 

corvettedude

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I kinda thought the water was supposed to be on the bottom too, ands thanks to you too bondo I seen you have replied with a few thoughts too. Appreciate all the help from you guys. So then I guess the oil that came out was fine it looked completely fine its just in this new oil that I put in a week ago. Hell maybe I got some bad oil or something seems highly unlikely tough. I do believe I have a bad power steering cooler I was gonna replace because last summer I was always running out of ps fluid. Maybe it mixes with my water make a milky mess and some how finds it way into the engine and settles into my oil. But I have no clue as to how it could make it to the crank case. Pressure test has pretty ruled that anywhere water goes is pretty freaking tight. I was pretty much ready to purchase a long block I mean it be frealing awesome if I didn't have to. But then again I could've done started pulling the engine and the block could've been on its way. Feel like I am on a wild goose chase now.
 
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Bondo

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I do believe I have a bad power steering cooler I was gonna replace because last summer I was always running out of ps fluid. Maybe it mixes with my water make a milky mess and some how finds it way into the engine and settles into my oil.

Ayuh,...... The P/S oil would go right out with the exhausted water,.....

No way for it to get into the motor's oil,......

I Guess,..... I'd change the oil, 'n filter again, 'n Run it,.....

If the oil level isn't rising, yer not addin' water to it,......
 

corvettedude

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Ayuh,..... Water is heavier than oil, when it separates, the water is on the bottom of the oil, not on top,.....

I just got and idea...if water is heavier than oil the 6 months it sat over winter would have been more than enough time to let the separate from each other. I change my oil with one of those pumps through the dipstick and I know that thing always leaves a little bit on the bottom of the pan. Maybe it is condensation from over the winter and I pumped out the oil and the water is still laying there on the bottom and when I started it the other day it just mixed all that crap together. I'll be draining from the drain plug the next few times to get everything out for sure.
 

corvettedude

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I been very tied down with work this week, so no activity. I'll be sure to update with the solution. Just for the for the heck of it I left the pressure in the block. Never could get that gauge completely airtight, soapy water still shows some bubbles at the fittings, but its held pressure since 6pm last Friday down to 5or6 psi now. It held 15 for like 2 days.
 

corvettedude

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hey everyone maybe I didnt' know exactly what to look for on the spark plugs to check for water. I checked literally for water droplets on there, but my dad helped me tonight and he noticed on the 3rd cylinder back from the front that the little l shaped thing on the bottom was white all the others were black. Does this ring a bell for anyone? Would that be a sign of water?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Extra clean spark plugs are a sign of water, aka: steam cleaned,....
 

corvettedude

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Ayuh,.... Extra clean spark plugs are a sign of water, aka: steam cleaned,....

That's my problem I dont know if I would consider it cleaner just because that part is white. The threads and everything else all look the same. Just that L part is noticeably white and the others are not. I can't get pics to load on here or I would post it, I really wanted to post pics of my setup to help others trying to pressurize their blocks. I dont wanna be one of those who post for answers and doesn't contribute or write back with updates/solutions.
 

Lou C

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How did the sealing surfaces of the exhaust manifold and riser look? If they get eroded you can get water in a cyl via the exhaust manifold but you said you did not see anything but black carbon. Well a good test for water in the cyls is....warm it up...disable the ignition....remove the spark plugs and crank it over. If you had water getting into a cyl from the exhaust or a small head gasket leak, it will be obvious because it will blow out the spark plug holes. Keep in mind sometimes its just a spray or mist of water not a lot. When my engine blew both HGs, the #2 cyl had water that would shoot out of the cyl, the #1 just a mist of water. Both plugs had a slight orange-ish cast to the porcelain center insulator.

You can check your exhaust manifold by taking it off the engine, draining all the water out and propping it up level. Then replace the drain plug and fill it (CAREFULLY, flammable) with Acetone. Let it sit. Look at the ports that line up with the exhaust ports in the cyl head. If you see any dampness, then that's a leak, either a crack or rotted through area. I did this with my OMC batwings several times. When I had water in the cyls, I checked them this way first, and they were fine. I then rigged up a way to check for combustion gas getting into the cooling water, after seeing it mentioned in a Volvo Penta overheat diagnosis document. I removed the thermostat and rigged up 2 funnels in the exhaust manifold feed hoses. You can't run it long this way because the exhaust isn't getting cooling water. However, at the end of the vid when I shut off the engine, you see bubbles rise up in both funnels. That was combustion gas getting in the cooling water, and water leaked into the cyls as the engine cooled off. Watch it all the way to the end.....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lz4p4e7pd...20232.MOV?dl=0

When I took the engine apart, the head gaskets were clearly blown, at the fire rings. The block deck looked fine but the cyl heads after being checked by a machine shop, had cracks in the center cyl exhaust seat areas. And the machinist felt that the cooling ports were eroded by salt water use and would not seal if the heads were decked after being repaired. So I installed a set of reman V6 marine heads.
 

corvettedude

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It looked fine to my untrained eye lol there was 2 gaskets and a metal plate in between the manifold and riser. It did see a few small rust stains on the manifold right below the riser like at one point a little water may have ran out of there. This was very small amount like really small and may even be from when I removed it the other night. Other than that alll looked in good shape but I will admit I dont know exactly what I am looking for. I just google good riser/bad riser and try to base it off those pics i find. Still had factory paint all over the bolts its obviously never been removed before. Gonna run it tomorrow I'll remove those plugs and crank if I have the time. When I try to upload a pic on here it says I am exceeding my 2.00 mb size limit
 
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corvettedude

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I watched your video I assume I would just use one funnel, that's your hoses going to the manifold right? I have a 3.0 so I only got one. I am gonna start it tomorrow and just keep my fingers crossed that just maybe its condensation, the other day when all this happened it was a cooler day and I had the hose hooked to the flush port and that seem to make it run way cooler than on the muffs. I actually had to warm it enough to get the t stat to open by reving it up some. Then that night it got down to 39 degrees which is crazy cause we hardly get that cold in the winter time lol. I am hoping that wild temp swing and my engine not getting very warm in the first place was enough to condensation. Probably wishful thinking but its worth a shot, I'll be sure to update but I doubt it will be informative its gonna take a few oil changes to clean that mess up if I am lucky enough that is my problem.
 

dypcdiver

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corvettedude to post a picture just open the picture with Microsoft "paint" and in the top line there is a box called resize, click on that and resize your photo to get it under 2.0 mb.
 

corvettedude

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no updates guys been busy this weekends and we been having a lot of storms haven't had a chance to start, didn't want you guys thinking I figured out the problem and disappeared without posting the outcome of this situation.
 

corvettedude

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hey gang still no updates, Tried Saturday and the escalade had a dead battery (thats an on going saga there if any general motors guys have any input on that). Tonight I got home an hour before dark and my stupid water hose busted lol. Then the yard mowing guy had his mower trailer parked in front of the garage so I just didn't bother him I could tell he was trying to get done before dark, by then it was almost dark anyways. I swear between work the weather and everything else this damn motor is gonna seize up from rust before I get to start it. Hopefully tomorrow night I will be able to start it and get this 2 or 3 oil change process started. (hopefully its just condensation but I ain't getting my hopes up on that). Any way I did drain all that nasty oil out because I had to get that crap out of the motor, I also ran 3 quarts through it to try to flush it out alittle. Then put the oil drain plug in and and filled it with 3 more quarts and me and my buddy just shook the boat back and forth trying to mix it up and slosh it around. I think the neighbors was wondering what we were doing lol. But I do have a question, if I had to get a motor any idea on the install price? I am really not having any free time to mess with it. Think a shop would put in a motor I bought off the internet? What about a volvo penta dealership? I have one an hour away. How much would someone charge to diagnose the problem if these oil changes don't work? because once that's done i'm really outta my league other than pulling the manifold or head. I have no clue what else it could be and I don't mind buying a new engine but i'm not getting a new one from volvo like I am sure the dealership would wanna use. Theres nice remans on ebay for like 1900 bucks and I can get some red spray paint.
 

alldodge

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Cost to replace can be all over the place, depends on where you live, how good the mechanic is and if there fair. I would look at least $500 to remove/install. A new reman around $2300.

So far as the battery in the chevy, if the truck isn't used for a few days it can kill the battery. Brother in law has a hummer and has to run it every 3 days or its dead
 
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