Water pump bearing and impeller.

[Leaky Rear]

You aren't going to get anything from volvo except a new replacement part. Volvo penta doesn't not sell rebuild kits for any of their parts. All parts kits are going to be 3rd party from Amazon or ebay. I bought mine from marineparts_pumps. What issue are you having? Kinda hard to help without pictures or at least the model of your engine.

I was suspecting that , that Volvo did not sell kits.
I do see all the kits on eBay and amazon. The issue is described in thread, I will summarize again.
I have a pic or two on the first page of the topic. I will include another.
Grease got spit out of bearing , seal gave out on pump housing. The round spring from the seal was hanging off the pump housing and heavy black gook all around that. I was told to rebuild the pump , If I am going to install a new seal - bearing should be replaced too.

The problem all started when the impeller tossed a small piece of one of it's vanes up and into the bypass hole in thermostat housing and the exhaust risers were getting no water, so engine overheat. In investigating noticed the black solidified grease and spring seal hanging from raw water pump. Cause for rebuild?

Have a new thermostat to go in along with impeller , seal and bearing for raw water pump. Apparently there were 4 different pumps provided with a Volva Penta 5.0 GL PEFS serial number 4012023956.....their part numbers are included up the thread.

From my post #14 page one
"The searches on Amazon show a kit with a c-clip , and on the youtube videos the Volvo Penta 5.0 GL -the bearing is retained in the housing of the pump ".

"On my motor , the bearing is cemented / pressed onto the center shaft of pulley. (n o C- clip) Seeing the kit specified for

• New Sea Water Pump rebuild kit For Pumps 21214595 , 21214596 , 21214599 , 21214601 How to determine which pump I have? . When I see the c -clip I get a feeling kit is wrong one"

 

[Thalasso]

I was suspecting that , that Volvo did not sell kits.
I do see all the kits on eBay and amazon. The issue is described in thread, I will summarize again.
I have a pic or two on the first page of the topic. I will include another.
Grease got spit out of bearing , seal gave out on pump housing. The round spring from the seal was hanging off the pump housing and heavy black gook all around that. I was told to rebuild the pump , If I am going to install a new seal - bearing should be replaced too.

The problem all started when the impeller tossed a small piece of one of it's vanes up and into the bypass hole in thermostat housing and the exhaust risers were getting no water, so engine overheat. In investigating noticed the black solidified grease and spring seal hanging from raw water pump. Cause for rebuild?

Have a new thermostat to go in along with impeller , seal and bearing for raw water pump. Apparently there were 4 different pumps provided with a Volva Penta 5.0 GL PEFS serial number 4012023956.....their part numbers are included up the thread.

From my post #14 page one
"The searches on Amazon show a kit with a c-clip , and on the youtube videos the Volvo Penta 5.0 GL -the bearing is retained in the housing of the pump ".

"On my motor , the bearing is cemented / pressed onto the center shaft of pulley. (n o C- clip) Seeing the kit specified for

• New Sea Water Pump rebuild kit For Pumps 21214595 , 21214596 , 21214599 , 21214601 How to determine which pump I have? . When I see the c -clip I get a feeling kit is wrong one"

delete

 

[Leaky Rear]

There was no C -clip when we first pulled the housing off the bearing. bearing was left pressed & glued on impeller shaft on pulley. Bearing had to be pulled separately. Was very careful , no C-clip fell out when we pulled the housing . Also the pump housing does not have a machined groove to hold the c-clip in.

All the c-clip model pumps have had the bearing retained in the housing and required removing C-clip to get out of housing.
The you -tube videos I have seen all show this. When we removed the pump housing with puller, it came off quite easily.

Again- the bearing removal from impeller shaft was a second step. Bearing is not seized seems to rotate ok , but that is no test for a bearing IMO I guess I can just start ordering the kits on amazon "prime" and send back if not correct one.
The bearing may be the same part number , just cemented to impeller shaft instead of retained in housing by c-clip.

 

[Leaky Rear]

Here is a shot of the housing , the slight recess at the open end is half the thickness of my fingernail.
Can't see that holding a C-clip .

 

[dypcdiver]

You do not have the circlip pump, don't worry. Do not glue the bearing to the shaft it is an interference fit on the shaft, the glue goes on the brass of the pump and the outer of the bearing.
This simple job is turning into a saga.

 

[GeorgeDes]

Exactly! As far as I know the repair kits for either are the same. You just don’t use the circlip on the one w/o a groove. As indicated the fit between the shaft and internal bearing race is a press or interference fit. I suppose using some bearing retainer there as well as on the outter race couldn’t hurt and may facilitate the pressing of the bearing onto the shaft.

 

[Leaky Rear]

I have been absent , excuse the delayed reply.
The two last posts say it all , truly has become a saga. I was starting to suspect what is said here.
Making a big deal of nothing.

Summer is blowing by , I have had little time to check the forum and work on my boats.
Thanks again last 2 posts!

 

[Leaky Rear]

I ordered the kit today , so expect to assemble soon.

 

[Leaky Rear]

I would like to thank the people who contributed to helping me.
Ordered a 1999 -2005 raw water pump rebuild kit from staycoolpumps . Installed ,just without the C clip.
A marine shop was nice enough to press the bearing onto my crankshaft pulley. I installed a new thermostat.,primed the hoses .
Started engine up first time for the year, warmed up to 165F or so. One step closer to getting out on the water.

Now to address the idling issue in another thread

 

[Leaky Rear]

Well the fast water test didn't go as planned. I really thought I had it fixed.

If id included this- the original reason raw water pump was rebuilt because the motor was overheating so i started taking things apart and noticed failed impeller.
There was a piece of old impeller blade rubber material stuck in the bypass hole of the thermostat housing.

And tons more pieces in the low part of the hoses that clamp to raw water pump. this was all discovered after taking apart before replacing the impeller and rebuilding pump.

I think that chunk in the bypass hole was keeping water from flowing into the exhaust manifolds .( the original issue first time around)
So when i reassemble I figured pour water thru the hoses once to flush out chunks of impeller, pour water through again to prime system.

I let the motor idle 15 minutes, cool at motor or exhaust manifolds. Then I go out on fast water for about 15 minutes.
Temp started bouncing from 160 - 175 and back. Then that smell. The exhaust manifold again were piping hot as was the motor. I was on the lake and hand paddled the 19 foot I/O boat back to my dock ( took hours).

So I suspect again a piece of impeller found its way into the bypass hole of thermostat housing again ? or maybe a blockage further back like toward the outdrive. I thought it through, the water path starts at the holes in the outdrive, so there may be something clogged near the outdrive?

Again the motor was overheated , (it still has normal looking oil.) Motor did not seize but has a sickening sound when I started it up , then shut off. I will guess if I pull the belts and the raw water pump i may find something that is making the horrible grinding scraping noise.

What is best course of action? I really can not afford to take it into a shop.
Have to isolate where the noise is coming from
I want to first determine if I damaged the motor.

I might add that first incident of overheating of exhaust, the engine block and heads remained pretty cool. And the gauge never read past 175F and the alarm never sounded.

But this most recent test the block heated up a bit. Had to run the motor a few moments to try to drift toward shore and the long row ahead.
I dont get it . The motor and heads and manifolds were cool during the warm -ups and idling . Only on the lake did the problem develop.