Cracked left bank exhaust manifold

MEng

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May 7, 2019
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3
Hello all, I am new to this forum and have a question regarding a cracked exhaust manifold on a Volvo 4.3L.
Let me preface that with I have a family member that is selling their '05 Regal 2000 with the 4.3 GXi-e. They are out of state (midlands SC) from me so i was relying on videos and pictures to decide if it was worth the trip for me to get the boat. Long story short it was a no brainer, until I was looking more closely at the videos and noticed a vertical crack about 3" long on the front face of the left bank exhaust manifold. Afterwards, that crack was confirmed along with another on the bottom of the manifold. The other manifold has none noted, nor the block on the outside. No water found in the oil either. They swear it has been winterized, double covered, in a three sided carport with a lightbulb warmer in the engine compartment. I lean towards believing them since they are family, much more than I would a random stranger. Plus, when SC does hit freezing and below it is usually not for a prolonged period of time.
So, my question is, do/can manifolds crack under normal use in fresh water? The boat has 120+/- hours.
 

BRICH1260

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Jul 6, 2011
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1,342
Manifolds generally don't crack for any reason but freezing. The manifolds probably were not drained as they should have been, even in SC. However, manifold replacement is a relatively easy job providing you have good access to the engine. I would negotiate the price of manifold replacement into your offer and if yo like the boat, get it.
 

tpenfield

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:welcome: to iBoats . . .

No manifolds don't crack under normal use.

Did you actually get/buy the boat? (yet)

If you end up getting the boat (or already have) I would recommend a cooling system pressure test to see if more than the manifold(s) are cracked.

I do recall driving through SC in January and it was quite cold w/ snow on the ground. Probably 24 hours in the mid 20˚ F range will do the trick for freezing. Obviously, 'someone' messed up with winterization, which happens more than one might think it should.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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it froze this winter all the way down to central florida.

only thing to cause the crack is improper winterization

they could have missed just the one manifold..... or they could have attempted to suck up AF with a hose.

either way, pressure test the cooling water jacket as Ted mentioned
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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11,803
That to me is a red flag, manifolds are easier to drain than the block for sure and the Volvo 4.3s have plug right on the tail end of the manifold. How do you know there is no water in the oil? Even though its family, be careful, because if they did it themselves, or used someone who did not know what they were doing, you will be on the hook for a new engine and bad feelings will follow. The business about a light bulb in the bilge also turns me off. If you do a proper winterization that is never needed, nor will it always work, depending on how cold it gets. Politely decline this offer.
 

MEng

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May 7, 2019
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Thank you for the replies. I have not bought it yet, however I decided to make the trip to check it out. Plus I have not seen them in some time. My plan is to run it for some time and check every square inch for a crack and/or water leakage coming from the block, and obviously water in the oil. Can you point me in the areas that I should especially hone in on?
The family discount on this boat is pretty steep so even if I miss any cracks and have to replace the block I will still be invested well under what the NADA value of the boat is. Contrary, if i do find a crack my offer will adjust accordingly and whether they accept that offer is out of my hands. I am looking into performing a pressure test while i am there as well.
 

MEng

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May 7, 2019
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The basics for the pressure test as i understand are blocking the escapes at the manifolds and pumping air pressure into the intake hose, pumping 15 +/- psi and praying it holds, correct? Plus spray soapy water on connections to verify no loss of pressure there. Im very mechanically inclined, but first time doing this.
Does everything need to be drained before adding air pressure? What about working around the thermostat?
2005 Volvo 4.3L GXI-e w/ fuel injection
 
Last edited:

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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yes, the cooling system needs to be drained for pressure test. thermostat should have a bleed hole.
 
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