New engine, wont start.

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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some volvo fuel pumps are powered by a relay that gets its power from diodes in the wiring
 
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BRICH1260

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I want to update with the findings and maybe help someone in a similar situation in the future. Turns out it was the crankshaft position sensor causing the non start. This is a part that I had replaced new. I took a chance on an aftermarket sensor for about $25 rather than purchase the OEM for $180. They looked identical. I don't know if it was just my bad luck getting a bad part or what but maybe there is something said for buying OEM parts rather than aftermarket. Lesson learned.
 

muc

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Glad you got it fixed. Hope you have a fun filled summer with your boat.

Thank you for posting the resolution. Not only does it help those of us who care, but I’m sure it will help countless others.

Aftermarket parts, especially ignition and fuel injection seem to causing more problems in the last five years. It sure would be nice to know why that is.

Sounds like you’ve found a good shop (they can be hard to find) hope the $$$ wasn’t to much. Not sure where your located but that was fast turn around for this time of year.
 

BRICH1260

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Glad you got it fixed. Hope you have a fun filled summer with your boat.

Thank you for posting the resolution. Not only does it help those of us who care, but I’m sure it will help countless others.

Aftermarket parts, especially ignition and fuel injection seem to causing more problems in the last five years. It sure would be nice to know why that is.

Sounds like you’ve found a good shop (they can be hard to find) hope the $$$ wasn’t to much. Not sure where your located but that was fast turn around for this time of year.

My only complaint was that it took 3.5 hours to diagnose the problem. Now maybe that's because its a rare issue, and knowing that the bad part was new, they didn't consider it immediately. I don't know if it would show on the diagnostic software or not. 3.5 hours at $100/hr plus the part price $190. and I ready to go.
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
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Not knowing the tech’s level of experience or the exact symptoms you had. Nobody can say. But given how this job was probably presented to him it could easily have been much more than 3.5hrs.

He/She was given a engine that had been replaced and had never run. So it’s possible that the engine had been assembled wrong. Maybe cam installed wrong, maybe valves adjusted wrong, etc. Next is a lot of work has been done by someone who might not be qualified. Maybe plugged A into B and B into A, and burned out something in the ECM, etc. On top of this a part or parts have been replaced with non OEM parts.

Years ago I had one that took me almost 5hrs. Customer had replaced the long block and now it would start and die, start and die. He and his buddies had replaced a lot of parts. I can’t remember exactly what the original problem was but it was something that would have taken less than a hour to find. But first I had to find out out that during his “cleaning” of the two ECM connectors (someone on the internet told him that might be the problem) he had mixed up the green with white tracer wire with the white with Green tracer wire and got them in the wrong spots. I was proud I found it. He was upset with how long it took me to find “something as simple as two wires mixed up”.

You ask ask if the crank sensor will show up in the software. You have the software, did it? Most likely not. That’s one of the problems with aftermarket parts. They often will work—— kind of ——- just not right. It’s possible in your engine the crank output didn’t agree with cam sensor output and confused the ECM.

Now on that you have the Rinda tool I highly recommend that you spend a few hours scanning your engine while it’s working right. Spend some time looking at the numbers while it’s cold, hot, running, stopped and especially while under load at all different RPMs. It will help you in the future. Maybe even swap that $25 crank sensor back in and see what you see.
 

BRICH1260

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Now on that you have the Rinda tool I highly recommend that you spend a few hours scanning your engine while it’s working right. Spend some time looking at the numbers while it’s cold, hot, running, stopped and especially while under load at all different RPMs. It will help you in the future. Maybe even swap that $25 crank sensor back in and see what you see.

I had thought about this. In fact I had the idea of taking screen shots of the different pages of information available when the engine is new and running well so that I can compare the numbers now with the numbers later when experiencing some difficulty.

I appreciate your insight and assistance.

[/QUOTE]
 

Scott Danforth

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just an FYI - two vendors to GM for the crank sensor. Little Fuse and SMP (Standard Motor Products). some of the aftermarket sensors are chineium knockoffs.
 
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