New engine, wont start.

BRICH1260

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I have replaced my 5.7 GXI-J this year with a new long block. Essentially a new block and heads. I transferred over intake manifold, distributor, ECM, fuses from old engine. New motor placed in boat and all hooked up. I went to start initially, fuel cell charges and primes, hear the traditional three beeps then quiet. Engine turns and fires for a second then dies.

I have double checked all electrical connections, but nothing obvious stands out. Does anybody have any suggestions on what to look at before I give up and take it to the dealership for diagnosis.
 

Scott Danforth

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hook a fuel gauge up. you may be getting initial prime of the fuel system, however not a sustained run

this could be from sources like oil pressure switch. if there is no oil pressure, it wont allow the motor to run
 

BRICH1260

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hook a fuel gauge up. you may be getting initial prime of the fuel system, however not a sustained run

this could be from sources like oil pressure switch. if there is no oil pressure, it wont allow the motor to run

I didn't think about the oil pressure factor. I did prime the system before the distributor was installed but that was a couple weeks ago. My fuel cell was refurbished a couple years ago, but your right, I need to test to rule out.

Would/could the ECM be in shutdown mode from the prior engine, when the oil pump failed? I have ordered a Rinda Techmate hoping to read any codes stored in the ECM.
 

Scott Danforth

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ECM should look at oil pressure switch constantly. do you have a mechanical gauge connected? are you getting oil pressure when cranking?
 

QBhoy

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Hi. Maybe obvious, but did you prime and bleed the fuel rails ? Just by pressing the valve on the rail ? Often you’ll see air coming out in these situations
 

BRICH1260

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Hi. Maybe obvious, but did you prime and bleed the fuel rails ? Just by pressing the valve on the rail ? Often you’ll see air coming out in these situations

Didn’t try that, but will check on that tomorrow.
 

Lubak572

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Did you prime the fuel system? Just curious why you didn't run on stand first? I will be doing this soon, but I will be running both my 6.2's on the stand. They are a PITA to get to on the boat. Where are you located I have a Rhinda? Did you follow the intial ignition timing procedure with the shunt?
 

BRICH1260

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Did you prime the fuel system? Just curious why you didn't run on stand first? I will be doing this soon, but I will be running both my 6.2's on the stand. They are a PITA to get to on the boat. Where are you located I have a Rhinda? Did you follow the intial ignition timing procedure with the shunt?

I did not bleed the fuel rails. I guess I assumed that the system was self purging. There was no mention of purging the system in any of the shop manuals that I have looked at. I can see that that could be the cause or part of the cause. I know where the schrader valve is and will test that theory tonight when I get home.

I did not run on the stand and probably should have but I didn't have good access to running water where the engine work was done. I have ordered the Techmate and should have it in a couple of days. Maybe it will display a code or point me into the right direction. I should at least help establishing the right dwell angle.
 

muc

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this could be from sources like oil pressure switch. if there is no oil pressure, it wont allow the motor to run


Im pretty sure there isn’t a oil pressure shutdown on a 5.7 GXi-J from Volvo.
 

muc

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Would/could the ECM be in shutdown mode from the prior engine, when the oil pump failed? I have ordered a Rinda Techmate hoping to read any codes stored in the ECM.


There is no “shutdown mode” on this engine other than the safety tether at the helm. Some models will exhibit the symptom you are having if this is triggered. I can’t remember if your engine is one of them. On a scan tool this will show as E-stop enabled.

edit —- there maybe one other shutdown mode in your ECM. I can’t remember when Volvo added it, but all the newer ECM’s have a compression test mode that disables spark and fuel. But this must be set and disabled with a scan tool. In the marine business we jokingly refer to this as the “pay your bill” mode.
 
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muc

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Hi. Maybe obvious, but did you prime and bleed the fuel rails ? Just by pressing the valve on the rail ? Often you’ll see air coming out in these situations


If this fuel system is working as designed this shouldn’t be necessary. (Unlike some fuel systems) Cycle the key a few times and try to start it a few times. Air should be gone, unless there are other problems.
 

Lou C

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a couple questions:
did you fill the fuel filters full of fuel before installing?
did you first check for spark at the plugs when it did not start? I like to rule out ignition problems before going after fuel problems.
 

muc

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Does anybody have any suggestions on what to look at before I give up and take it to the dealership for diagnosis.

Follow the trouble shooting procedures in the fuel injection workshop manual.
 

BRICH1260

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Update- I received my Rinda Techmate today and plugged it in. No new faults found and oil pressure was up to 20 psi when cranking. I bled the fuel system, no air present and checked breakers and fuses, all good. Engine still acts like it wants to fire, does very briefly, then dies.

I will confirm proper fuel pressure and spark tomorrow and maybe reset the distributor in case I’m a tooth off.
 

QBhoy

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If this fuel system is working as designed this shouldn’t be necessary. (Unlike some fuel systems) Cycle the key a few times and try to start it a few times. Air should be gone, unless there are other problems.

Hi

if I don’t fill the fuel filter...every year I need to bleed the air out the fuel rail or it will not run.
 

muc

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Hi

if I don’t fill the fuel filter...every year I need to bleed the air out the fuel rail or it will not run.


Yes on some systems this is needed. But on this system the air has a nice and easy path to purge. Like I said —- if it’s working properly.

Note that most people who prefill a filter do it wrong. They pour the fluid down the middle of the filter. This allows the fluid to bypass the filter element. It’s best (and required on many engines) to fill it through the outer holes or use some type of pump to fill it and if needed purge the air.
 

Dandydan

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My long block is not nearly as complicated as yours, but until i got the distributor right, all it would do is crank over. Probably cut the starter life in half. Really helps to have a helper some days!
 

QBhoy

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Oh. Just maybe. I might know what this is. I’ve posted a few times about a similar thing. Might not be...but certainly worth a thought.
Please check the battery is absolutely in 100% full charge condition. Despite almost instantly ruling it out because it turns it over...it’s not always good enough for the MPI and GXI. I’ve had this a few times and it does exactly what you describe. It will turn over fine then as you let the key go..it kicks briefly and no more. My theory is that the starter and cranking takes so much load away from the system it is unable to fireon these particular engines. They are so power dependant and hungry with the vast amount of pumps sensors and what else they have. The power enough is momentarily restored when you let the key go and when the load is taken off the starter...it’s momentarily enough to give that quick kick of ignition.
Hope it’s as simple as that but it’s happemed a few times with me and others now.
Good luck and give it a try. I know it sounds like a tall tale but it adds up when you think about it.
 

muc

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Oh. Just maybe. I might know what this is. I’ve posted a few times about a similar thing. Might not be...but certainly worth a thought.
Please check the battery is absolutely in 100% full charge condition. Despite almost instantly ruling it out because it turns it over...it’s not always good enough for the MPI and GXI. I’ve had this a few times and it does exactly what you describe. It will turn over fine then as you let the key go..it kicks briefly and no more. My theory is that the starter and cranking takes so much load away from the system it is unable to fireon these particular engines. They are so power dependant and hungry with the vast amount of pumps sensors and what else they have. The power enough is momentarily restored when you let the key go and when the load is taken off the starter...it’s momentarily enough to give that quick kick of ignition.
Hope it’s as simple as that but it’s happemed a few times with me and others now.
Good luck and give it a try. I know it sounds like a tall tale but it adds up when you think about it.

Yes, I’ve seen this many times, especially with customers that have one of those “jumper box’s”. They have me come out for a service call and all I need to do is replace the battery and tell them to use the battery switch. These new engines need a good battery.
 

BRICH1260

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Well knowing that splash time is quickly approaching, I broke down and took it to the dealership for diagnosis. As I type, I am awaiting the phone call informing me what it was and how much the cost to fix. I`ll let you guys know when I hear.
 
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