4.3 GL-J oil pan gasket change

gumbyaz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
49
I am getting prepped to pull my engine for the first time to get a better look at why I continuously weep oil from between the timing cover and oil pan. With a mirror I can see what looks like possible damage on the oil pan around where the front part of the seal seats into it, so fully expecting to drop the oil pan to investigate and fix. It is a reman motor that previous owner put in, but appears to be original pan, so maybe it got dinged up while motor was being swapped.

Couple questions:
-Do I have to remove the flywheel cover/bellhousing to get the oil pan off and back on? Or can I just drop the pan straight down?
-What type of adhesive/sealant is recommended for the 2 corners at the front and back that need a small bead?
-Since I don't see any oil leakage from the front seal at the harmonic balancer (cover is always dry there) I am not expecting to have to remove the timing cover - I don't think that this is "wrong" to leave it there and just change the pan gasket, but please let me know if this raises questions.
-Is there anything special about the volvo gasket for the oil pan? or will automotive work here?

Side question: after reading up on procedure, I am clearly going to remove the front engine mounts using the lags. But why not just pull the top nuts and leave the mounts attached? I could see the lag holes loosening up if removed/replaced too often?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
No need to remove flywheel
I use silicone RTV in the corners
Front cover should not be an issue
Nothing special, its an auto gasket, just get a good brand like felpro

Have remove lags and top nut and have no issue either way. Removing lags allows for easier remove/install, but must still loosen nuts for alignment. Removing nuts a bit harder to remove/install (not much)
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,798
You might try posting this over on the Merc I/O forum, I recall achris posting something similar to this, with the newer style 4.3s and the plastic timing cover. Not sure how he resolved it, but eventually it was fixed.
 

gumbyaz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
49
Thanks guys. I did read achris' thread already, several times - very well documented and helpful. I think my timing cover is a different design though, and it feels like aluminum? Has the number 12391992 stamped near top front, and actually has a separate gasket that I can see from the top. Hoping I don't have to remove it. Don't see any signs of cracks from what I can see with a mirror.

Felpro gasket is in stock locally, will pick up tomorrow. Everything except power steering and motor mounts is already undone and ready for this weekend, and hoist is reserved.

To bolt the engine to a stand - I am assuming I have to remove the flywheel cover and use the bolt holes that it attaches to in order to hold the engine? But flywheel itself can stay. I only ever had one motor out before, and that was in an old YJ jeep years ago.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
assuming I have to remove the flywheel cover

No, don't remove the cover, only remove a bolt to install a chain if lifting eye is not present.

I like to use Two 1 inch web lifting straps. Place one strap under each exhaust manifold and hook over the top of the motor
 

gumbyaz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
49
I have the motor out and pan out, working on cleaning it up. Just cracked open the Fel-Pro box that I got, and it is not the right gasket. I cross-referenced off a late model chevy blazer to look it up at the auto parts store, got a Fel-Pro OS 30680 R. It is close, and looks like a really nice gasket, but too thick at the front to go into the Volvo oil pan, and has extra round nubs along the sides that won't work.

Anyone know the right cross-reference to get the correct gasket for a 4.3 GL-J oil pan?
 

gumbyaz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
49
Boat is 2008 model, believe the pan is original to the boat. Engine also has stickers that indicate 2008. It is volvo part 21124852 for the gasket according to the parts diagrams, and the image shown in the diagram looks accurate to what I have.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
I looked up the part number 30680R and it fits 4.3L from 1996 to 2006
In 2007, 2008 find gasket OS 30786R

The VP number should be 21124852
 

gumbyaz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
49
AllDodge - you are a saint. That looks like it, now just need to find one locally. In the meantime I was trying to scrounge up more clues and found the casting part #'s on the bottom of the oil pan - GM 12590926 and 12593713.
 

gumbyaz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
49
Thanks again AllDodge. You saved my day. They had one right down the road, worked like a charm and the engine is back in and aligned up perfectly first shot.

I didn't see anything crazy wrong that would indicate why it was leaking, but there were multiple shades of RTV residue in the corners, so not sure if it got cleaned off well enough last time someone installed it. It should be good now. Spent about 2 hours carefully cleaning it all up. Timing cover is aluminum (not the plastic one that others have had issues with) and no signs of problems there, so left it alone.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Good to hear, I got tied up with other things. Those numbers and GM part numbers and not easy to find on line
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Numbers in post by OP were GM 12590926 and 12593713

Numbers for 35 and 36 are 93800961 and 12593592

I don't understand, but I don't understand most things, probably just me

Old numbers, or supersedes... Either way, that's the right drawing for that engine.
 
Top