2007 Volvo Penta 5.7GI Mated to 280DP

jaytintinger@q.com

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I picked up a 2007 volvo penta 5.7 GI complete. I plan on installing in a 1976 Bayliner Victoria with a 280DP. It is replacing a 305.
Has any one done this? Will the mate up? do I use the flywheel etc from the 305? How about the wiring and controls, shiftier throttle etc. How about the wiring on the 5.7. The 5.7 is complete with wiring fuel pumps etc. It come from a custom wooden boat made locally for a resort. They are re-powering. It has 5.000 hours but does not burn oil and runs good. I may freshen-up with new rings etc. Any information would be appreciated.
 

Scott Danforth

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welcome aboard

your new to you 2007 motor would have a 168 tooth flywheel. only the 153 tooth flywheel will fit the AQ PDS housing. you will need to buy a new flywheel as your original flywheel was for a 2-piece RMS crank and the new motor is a 1-piece RMS crank. its simply a GM 10.5" manual clutch flywheel. available for about $75

you will need to make an adapter harness, however that is easy. mainly because your old motor would have had the trapezoidal plug and the new motor will be a round plug. you can look, they may make adapter harnesses.

as for the boat. is the 5.0 hours or 5000 hours? at 5000 hours, the motor would need to be pulled apart, and you may need to completely re-build. a compression reading as well as pulling the heads to inspect the bores would be my first suggestion.

you will need to find a custom hose from the power steering cooler to the raw water pump
 

jaytintinger@q.com

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I have both flywheels and bell housings. neither will work? .
Will the old starter work with the 153 tooth flywheel?

Will the adapter harness power up the motor and shift safety switch (Every thing to run the newer motor.) It can't be that easy.

5k hours is correct. I am told it ran great. I fully intended the rebuild it BUT asking around these 5.7s don't seem to have a catastrophic failure point.(I"m a life long ford guy don't know the Chevy's). The pvc valve is clean (no blow by). The outside is oil free-Except where its been spilled when changing. The oil is not dark. Thinking Compression test & run on the stand. If its looks good just run it. I don't put many hours on anyway. I run the kicker when fishing.

Neither the motor nor boat have power steering.
 

Scott Danforth

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I have both flywheels and bell housings. neither will work? .
Will the old starter work with the 153 tooth flywheel?

Will the adapter harness power up the motor and shift safety switch (Every thing to run the newer motor.) It can't be that easy.

5k hours is correct. I am told it ran great. I fully intended the rebuild it BUT asking around these 5.7s don't seem to have a catastrophic failure point.(I"m a life long ford guy don't know the Chevy's). The pvc valve is clean (no blow by). The outside is oil free-Except where its been spilled when changing. The oil is not dark. Thinking Compression test & run on the stand. If its looks good just run it. I don't put many hours on anyway. I run the kicker when fishing.

Neither the motor nor boat have power steering.

No, your new motor came with a 168tooth flywheel and is for a 1-piece RMS crank.
your old motor came with a 153 tooth flywheel, however is for a 2-piece RMS crank
only the PDS housing maters as that is what your drive connects to
you need a new flywheel with 153 teeth for a 1-piece RMS crank.

you could use your old starter, however why. the new PMGR starters are 1/3 the weight.

rebuild time for a motor in a boat is usually 3000 hours. so at 5000 hours, it may be on its last leg.
 

jaytintinger@q.com

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Your right. wishful belief in the boat motor fairy How about the electrical. Is it plug and play with the plug adapter?
 

jerryjerry05

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The wiring on most boats is color coded.
If the plugs don't match use soldered connections.
 

Scott Danforth

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Your right. wishful belief in the boat motor fairy How about the electrical. Is it plug and play with the plug adapter?

yes. the generic 8-pin harness connector running to the helm is universal. the adapter harness at the engine (about 2 feet long) is what changes to the trapezoidal plug or the round plug.

however as Jerry mentioned, the wiring colors/functions are STANDARD across the board.

connect
red to red (unswitched power)
black to black (ground)
tan to tan (water temp)
grey to grey (tach)
light blue to light blue (oil pressure)
yellow with red stripe to yellow with red stripe (start)
purple to purple (ignition)

and if you have it
orange to orange (post switch power or alternator power)
 

QBhoy

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Props change will be likely too. Loads more power there, should you get it all mated up. Not sure what’s on the drive now, maybe B3’s or B4’s ? Likely need B5’s at least.
 

jaytintinger@q.com

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I figured as much on the props. It had B5's and I traded for B3's to try to get some performance out of that 305. No doubt I will need to go back the other way.
 

jaytintinger@q.com

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what needs to come apart in order to pull the motor. Obviously the motormounts but does the out drive need to come off. or does it just slip out of the splines? What all should I replace? Bellows & u joints. what bearings and seals are there?
 

kenny nunez

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After removing the engine’s water, exhaust and electrical,fuel and throttle cable and you just want to pull the motor unbolt the bellhousing at the rear of the engine. Remove the dust shield and the 6 bolts.
To remove the whole assembly remove the 2 socket head bolts in the helmet, use a 1/4” 20 bolt to back out the stainless fitting, the rear shift linkage cover, disconnect the shift rod, the 2 socket head rear bolts, the 2 hex nuts and the worm clamp on the bellows then the forward clamp. Pull the bellows back. Lift and rotate the upper gear housing and pull it back. The 6 hex bolts that hold the conical ring are next then lift the engine slightly. You can use 2 of the long bolts that held the ring to back the ring out by screwing them into the tapped holes in the ring. Remove the conical ring then pull the engine.
All of this gets real complicated if any of the shaft splines are rusted together. Trust me I have been ther several times and it is a real PITA!
 

Scott Danforth

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Pull drive
undo 6 bolts on PDS clamp,, use the bolts in the 3 tapped holes to drive it off
Undo the exhaust hoses
Undo the throttle cable
Undo the battery cables and cround cables
undo the harness connection
Undo the fuel hose and plug
Unbolt the front mounts

Lift motor slightly, then move forward to clear PDS from transom shield, then lift out of bilge
 

jaytintinger@q.com

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Thanks that's a huge help. I will let you know how it goes.
here is the link to the boat.
​​​​​​​ [h=1]1976 Bayliner Victoria 2750 double cabin express project[/h]
 

aimlow

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Starters/nosecones are matched to the flywheel, and there 2 flywheel diameters...starter bolts lined up are one offset, starter bolts at a 45 degree angle are another offset. I forget which is which.

All 1 pc. Rear main flywheels are externally balanced. 2 pc. main seal flywheels are neutral balanced. 400 ci. cranks are all externally balanced (stock). All balancers are neutral balanced, except 400 cu.in. engines. 1 pc. seal cranks use 8", 2 pc. seal cranks use 6 3/4". Timing tabs are all different.
 

Scott Danforth

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is it leaking?

if not, leave it alone

you can, however easiest to remove the pan, and crack all the mains, pulling the rear main to unclamp
 

jaytintinger@q.com

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Nov 21, 2018
Messages
41
yes. the generic 8-pin harness connector running to the helm is universal. the adapter harness at the engine (about 2 feet long) is what changes to the trapezoidal plug or the round plug.

however as Jerry mentioned, the wiring colors/functions are STANDARD across the board.

connect
red to red (unswitched power)
black to black (ground)
tan to tan (water temp)
grey to grey (tach)
light blue to light blue (oil pressure)
yellow with red stripe to yellow with red stripe (start)
purple to purple (ignition)

and if you have it
orange to orange (post switch power or alternator power)

I do not have a purple for ignition wire. there is a black with purple stripe. When i put power to it nothing happens. It doesnt pull any power and the fuel pump doesn't cycle. battery is connected to starter solonoid , ground bolted to block with other grounds.

connect
red to red (unswitched power) TESTS HOT
black to black (ground) NOT CONNECTED
tan to tan (water temp) NOT CONNECTED
grey to grey (tach) NOT CONNECTED
light blue to light blue (oil pressure) NOT CONNECTED
yellow with red stripe to yellow with red stripe (start) NOT CONNECTED (USING REMOTE START SWITCH) DOES CRANK
purple to purple (ignition) NO PURPLE using black purple stripe

What am I missing? it should run?


Does anyone have a schematic of this plug specifying the pins or corresponding pin numbers
 

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