Volvo penta aq211 swapping 1pc to 2 pc rear main seal block

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dohcdelsol93

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Doing some trading with the race shop next to my shop (trading a built/modded 268 husqvarna for a 350) this flyweel on the back of my AQ211A NO CU76064


14893627 is the block stamp

i believe this is a 2 pc rear main. They mostly have the newer 1pc. Will my splined coupler assembly fit on a newer style block with a std 153 tooth flywheel? Or must i stick to a 2 pc 350
 

kenny nunez

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If your coupler is the one that looks like a clutch disk then it will bolt up to the earlier flywheel that goes on the 2 piece rear main seal model. The crankshaft flywheel bolt pattern for the later 1 piece style seal is different than the earlier 2 piece style seal if I read your post right.
 

dohcdelsol93

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Let me try to rephrase this

Yes my current motor has a sprung coupler that looks like a clutch that bolts to the flywheel in bolt holes that look identical to that of a standard car/truck flywheel that would hold the pressure plate.

Are the is the volvo penta a standard auto flywheel? If so, do would the clutch looking coupler(stock volvo part) bolt to both a 1pc and 2pc rear main flywheel?
 

Scott Danforth

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your coupler will bolt to ANY 153 tooth GM flywheel. and you can only run a 153 tooth flywheel in the AQ series PDS hoursing (flywheel housing) for GM motors. a 168 tooth flywheel will not fit (I know, I tried).

the flywheel is a stock GM manual truck flywheel (Volvo Penta and Mercruiser bought the motors from GM)

so get the appropriate $75 flywheel for your crank,damper,engine balance and bolt your damper plate (coupler) to it and install the PDS hoursing. however you may want to install new bearings and seals in the PDS housing since you have that off.

the motor you are getting will need to have brass core plugs, a marine cam and marine head gaskets prior to you bolting all you stuff up to it.
 

aimlow

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Are you swapping just the bare block, or a short block?
 

dohcdelsol93

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A whole block. Putting in closed loop cooling (although the shop has uses brass freeze plugs for years now) i have a parts 5.7 mercruiser ill be taking the 4bbl marine carb off of. I'll have to see if i can find a linkage adapter for the volvo as i believe they are different.

Its a .030 bore 9.5 comp dished piston 4 bolt, vortec heads. Im not sure the cam will work for me. It already has a carb intake. Ill put my starter, alternator on it. Being it will be closed loop ill keep the stk thermostat and water pump i believe.

I got this boat for fishing out of murrels inlet and the keys so i figured closed loop cooling is a must.


Im having issues finding oem volvo penta transom sealing ring and doughnut o rings. I also need a new exhaust o ring (sp290a) ill do the bellows while in there too. I have the bellhosing off, my dad is going by the bearing warehouse this week to match up quality timken or kkb(?) Bearing and seals. I've just gotta get around to removing them.

We have highs in the 60s now so im putting in my new transom this weekend. I want it installed by Xmas so i can start on the cabin, interior and top at the start of the year when it really gets cold. All these heat lamps overnight are going to kill my electric bill.
 

dohcdelsol93

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sorry for all the typos. My phone screen is cracked and not only am i terrible at touch screens but the cracked screen plus auto correct makes the phone have a mind of its own.
 

Scott Danforth

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Turn off the auto correct....it helps

Follow the links on the iboats site to OEM volvo parts and get the appropriate transom ring, donuts, o-rings, etc

Since your getting the motor from a race shop, most likely you can not use the cam and will need a marine cam. Most cams in race motors will hydrolock in a marine environment

If your running a heat exchanger, you can use a non-marine circulating pump and non marine head gaskets

Throttle bracket, etc for volvo was set up for a holley carb. Wont work with the Rochester/Weber/mercarb that you are pulling from the mercruiser. You will have to get creative

Recommend a remote oil filter and a remote oil drain to make maintenance easy
 

kenny nunez

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You have 3300 style control cables which should not be a problem to connect to the carburetor.
As Scott mentioned about marine cams verses auto. Marine cams put the power band in the 35-4500 rpm range. Also a high overlap cam in a boat has to idle too high which can cause some interesting docking fun. Also causes carburetor problems because the throttle plates will be open too much to compensate for the low vacuum signal to cause the off idle circuit to start cutting in and mixing with the idle circuit, or even worse the power valve. You want to stay with the original marine carburetor that matches the throttle bore of the manifold it was on.
 

Scott Danforth

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most importantly.....marine cams have minimal overlap to prevent reversion (which in a boat will suck up water at idle causing hydro-loc). in a race cam, you want reversion to help with scavenging for more power.
 

aimlow

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A whole block. Putting in closed loop cooling (although the shop has uses brass freeze plugs for years now) i have a parts 5.7 mercruiser ill be taking the 4bbl marine carb off of. I'll have to see if i can find a linkage adapter for the volvo as i believe they are different.

Its a .030 bore 9.5 comp dished piston 4 bolt, vortec heads. Im not sure the cam will work for me. It already has a carb intake. Ill put my starter, alternator on it. Being it will be closed loop ill keep the stk thermostat and water pump i believe.

I got this boat for fishing out of murrels inlet and the keys so i figured closed loop cooling is a must.


Im having issues finding oem volvo penta transom sealing ring and doughnut o rings. I also need a new exhaust o ring (sp290a) ill do the bellows while in there too. I have the bellhosing off, my dad is going by the bearing warehouse this week to match up quality timken or kkb(?) Bearing and seals. I've just gotta get around to removing them.

We have highs in the 60s now so im putting in my new transom this weekend. I want it installed by Xmas so i can start on the cabin, interior and top at the start of the year when it really gets cold. All these heat lamps overnight are going to kill my electric bill.

Vortec heads require less total timing advance than regular SBC heads. Be conservative on the cam..too mild is better than too aggressive. Can't help on outdrives.

Make sure of the engine balance..internal or external. Flywheels are different.
 

dohcdelsol93

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It's a 1 pc 350, ill verify if its an internal or external balance since the rebuild. It was built for a daily driver years ago but was quickly pulled for a big block.

I've asked him a few times about the cam, he says it's a good cam for a boat but im sure im his mind he's thinking good for a 5000 rpm go fast boat. I dont want to sacrifice the hull speed permanence. This is a mini cabin cruiser so lots of time will be spent cruising. I will pull the timing cover to ID the cam before install and replace with a slightly better than stock boat/rv cam if it's not suitable.

It's not currently closed loop cooling, im adding new manifolds and the closed loop cooling. Im assuming these are original 1988 manifolds.
 

Scott Danforth

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Vortec heads require less total timing advance than regular SBC heads. Be conservative on the cam..too mild is better than too aggressive. Can't help on outdrives.

Make sure of the engine balance..internal or external. Flywheels are different.

Huh?.... Vortec heads are less prone to pre-detonation, so you can run more timing
 

aimlow

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Huh?.... Vortec heads are less prone to pre-detonation, so you can run more timing

No. High turbulence chamber design enables faster flame front spread, and requires less timing lead. Quench helps, but dished pistons do not provide adequate quench clearance (0.040 or so). This is also why the "high swirl" intake ports on some 4.3 V6's require less total advance.

You only run enough timing advance so peak cylinder pressure is essentially at, or slightly after, TDC. Too much advance, and the pressure peak will try to push the piston down on the upstroke. This leads to power loss, possible detonation and damage.

On a race engine, or even a boat, which runs at pretty heavy throttle settings, it's better to be conservative on total timing.

Vacuum advance is used on street engines because at part throttle, the "effective" compression ratio is way less than the mechanical ratio, and additional advance is required to optimize the slower flame front spread and achieve peak cylinder pressure at the correct time.

Look at older restrictor plate NASCAR engines. If they accelerated too hard at low rpms, the 14:1 compression wil detonate the engine. However, at high rpms, the limited breathing reduces the effective compression ratio to a manageable level.

They run a methanol rich fuel now, and ethanol has a much higher effective "octane" and will support higher compression. There just isn't as much energy in the fuel itself.
 

Scott Danforth

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yet for some reason both Mercruiser and Volvo increased timing from 8 degrees BTDC to 10 degrees BTDC with the vortec heads (while still running the junk flat-top 4-relief pistons from GM) to help get the power from the motors that the vortec heads help extract.

Engine temp has more to do with timing than any amount of quench, even with properly built vortec motors with d-shapped (LCQ style) pistons.
 

aimlow

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yet for some reason both Mercruiser and Volvo increased timing from 8 degrees BTDC to 10 degrees BTDC with the vortec heads (while still running the junk flat-top 4-relief pistons from GM) to help get the power from the motors that the vortec heads help extract.

Engine temp has more to do with timing than any amount of quench, even with properly built vortec motors with d-shapped (LCQ style) pistons.

All the engines I've seen with vortec heads use dished pistons with reduced compression. There is no quench. Initial timing has no bearing on total timing without knowing what is in the specific advance module used.

D shaped pistons are the way to go, but you must have a zero deck height for the standard 0.038" gasket crush thickness (non-marine) to be effective.

Cylinder head temps affects auto - ignition more than timing. So do sharp edges and excessive carbon deposits. This is why many engines "run-on". No matter what the head temp, the fuel charge should burn at a finite rate, not spontaneously combust. Frankly, this is what octane does..determines resistance to compression ignition.

Bore diameter affects total timing also. That's why a "mag drop" works on an aircraft..those dam pistons must 5-6" across. Flame front is ignited from 2 directions. Drop one mag, the flame front has to spread from one side only. Less pressure build-up, less power. Actually, since aircraft timing is stationary, if the mags are too far advanced, there is no mag drop.
 

dohcdelsol93

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Dropped off my saw to the race shop and got some specs off of the cam

Duration 278/288, Lift .420/.433,

Its a flat tappet cam that they run on roller motors with roller lifters. I guess they liked the performance of them, from what the old dude who used to build their motors said they used them as a loop hole cam to get by some cam size regulations at the circle track and tried them on street cars with lots of success (their cost on them is about 35 bucks a cam so I'm sure that helps too).

not sure I'm digging that set up, not for a boat anyway. The power range is from about 1200 to 4800 rpms. Moves higher with advanced timing which i wont be doing.

These guys dont build boat motors, don't really build car motors either now that all the local guys have gone to crate motors on the circle track. They used to build for and race against the Earnhardt family (Dale Sr would have been a kid back then) no doubt the old guy knows his stuff but im not sure how much of the newer technology has past them by. Anyway, im thinking cam change but wanted to get your opinion


its a melling mc-1 cam
 

Scott Danforth

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The Melling MTC-1 cam is a good street cam for a car, NOT a marine cam. too much overlap to be used in a boat with wet exhaust

get a marine cam. 268 degrees of duration on a flat tappet is max. 270 on roller is max.

suggest one of the following for a flat tappet

either the CL12-236-3 - Comp Cams 'Xtreme Marine' Hydraulic Flat Tappet

Operating Range: 1300-5500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 262 Intake / 268 Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 218 Intake / 224 Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .462'' Intake / .477'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112

or the CL12-232-3 - Comp Cams 'Xtreme Marine' Hydraulic Flat Tappet

Operating Range: 1300-5000 RPM
Duration Advertised: 256 Intake / 262 Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 212 Intake / 218 Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .447'' Intake / .462'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112
 

aimlow

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You mean they run roller lifters on a flat tappet cam? You can't do that. One is steel, one is iron.

RETARDING cam timing slightly moves the power band up.
 

dohcdelsol93

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So ive got my new transom seal strip on its way. I already have 4200 to glue the ends together and contact cement to hold the ring in place. How about added sealer between the seal strip and the transom? Looks like the factory used silicone.

should i use 4200? Life calk? Any suggestions?

Also i have some corrosion on the transom shield around the outter doughnut gasket. I've cleaned it up well but would like to add a sealer there too...again open to suggestion
 
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