Changing 4.3L GL Water Supply Pump Shaft seal

[jimi]

Does any one have any tip[s on changing the lip seal (item 6 in attached picture) in the water supply pump?

 

[dypcdiver]

If you are VERY careful you can pry it out with a screw driver, however if you are replacing it because it leaked then I would recommend you replace the bearing just behind it. An easy job and not too expensive part number is SFK 6006-2RS1 and the seal is a standard oil seal 16mm ID x 27mm OD X 7mm thick. You can get them all from auto dealers at a good price.

 

[jimi]

Thanks for the part numbers!

Do you have to unbolt the crankshaft pulley to press out the bearing?

 

[Fishhead-1]

May add that most of those seals at the parts places won't have a stainless compression lip seal spring in them. In salt not going to last long check with a magnet

 

[dypcdiver]

Much easier to do it all on the bench, bolts are hex key 5/16 or 8mm and they are usually very tight.

 

[USA_boater]

How do you know if it leaks? Will the bearing make enough noise to tell?

 

[dypcdiver]

The pump has a drain hole that will weep into the bilge, but as I have said the bearing will probably have water in it once you notice a leak. The bearing can also seize and spin in it's housing, if that happens then the only total solution is to replace the pump at a cost here in Spain of €482.79, hence the reason I suggest replacing the bearing for about €20.
The other thing that can and did in happen my case was the seal allowed the pump to suck air instead of cooling water leading to an overheating of the engine.

 

[jimi]

I noticed the problem because there was a steady dribble of water down the face of the pulley start behind the water pump.

 

[jimi]

So interesting turn... Seems pulling the bearing and water pump back off of the Pulley spindle/stub shaft wasn't too bad.

However, looking at the bearing it is clear that it isn't held in by a snap ring. If you look at the picture attached it seems there are eight "staking" marks around the circumference.

Turn the bearing by hand, it seems very smooth. I'm considering just leaving it in there. Opinions?

 

[dypcdiver]

That's entirely your choice,
If it has been staked, then at some time the bearing has become slack in the housing as they are an interference fit from new. Only the early pumps had a circlip to hold them in.
If you lay your boat up for the winter and there is any trace of water in the bearing, there is a strong chance that it will cause rust and pitting in the bearing, and you will have to do it all again.

 

[jimi]

I'm sure it is factory (OEM) staking. Look at the perfectly equal and evenly distributed marks in the photo.

Using a cold chisel and a bolt with a tapered cut, i managed to push the old bearing out with moderate tapping. Seems there is a lot of corrosion on the water seal side! Good call dypcdiver (if that is your real name).

Now for a bit of cleaning and off to buy a new bearing and seal.

Thx

 

[dypcdiver]

Well done, I have to agree that the staking looks factory done. The pumps are manufactured by Johnson pumps, they must have been aware of the bearings moving in the housings.

I must make you aware of my typo, the seal is 28mm OD not 27mm as I have typed above. (I tried to edit it but not allowed to)
Now go boating with confidence and a smile.