Drain engine block(s) or purge with Non-toxic antifreeze?

[Cam62]

I purchased “flush” kits for winterization as I was informed that “ear-muffs” would not provide sufficient cooling to block. I have 5.7litre Volvo pentas with I/O’s.

You can also add antifreeze through winterization kit easily via container and valve system. The jury is out as to which is the best way to winterize – drain or flush with antifreeze, leaving the antifreeze in the block and risers/manifolds.

Next dilemma is now from what I’ve read and watched on Youtube is that you require engine antifreeze and not plumbing antifreeze. Plumbing antifreeze doesn’t carry rust inhibitors, but this isn’t clearly defined. I would also think this to be true for the genset also, but not necessarily the air conditioning unit.

Any additional experiences, information would be appreciated on this subject.
Cam62

 

[Scott Danforth]

Welcome aboard

stop playing with the fonts, makes it hard to read

drain = winterized

attempting to "purge" with antifreeze = busted block

if you want to add antifreeze AFTER YOU DRAIN, it must be -100F, for storage of engines, and it must be PG and not EG

 

[Bondo]

The jury is out as to which is the best way to winterize – drain or flush with antifreeze, leaving the antifreeze in the block and risers/manifolds.

Ayuh,....... Welcome Aboard,..... The jury ain't still out,..... Regardless whether ya wanta use antifreeze, or air,..........

Drainin' is step #1 in any, 'n All winterizations,......

 

[Lou C]

Agreed there is no good way to use one of those winterizing kits UNLESS you have an engine with closed cooling. No short cuts, you drain every drain point including hoses, p/s coolers, fuel coolers if you have one, etc. You can add -100 PG marine AF AFTER draining but that’s the only safe way. And for most fresh water boaters, even that is debatable. It MIGHT help in salt water where I am, still not sure after all these years except I have a block used in salt for 15+ years and it hasn’t rusted through yet....maybe it helped, I dunno...same with the intake manifold...still orginal..exhaust has been replaced every 5-7 years and heads were replaced due to cracks and cooling port erosion last year....

 

[enginesilo]

Forget those muff anti-freeze contraptions, the safest bet is to drain the block of all water. I personally then fill the engine and tubing with antifreeze by removing the tubes off the thermostat and filling one by one. This will be my first time doing on a Volvo, but I've done it for many years on a Mercruiser.

Get the antifreeze that says it has corrosion inhibitors added.

Winterizing is serious business, you do it wrong and you'll pay dearly. Even if you do everything right there is a chance it can go bad, so research and do it the best way you can.

 

[89retta]

And here we go again lol

 

[jimmbo]

I never heard of filling the Engine with propylene glycol until recently. I have always just done the 'remove all hoses and drain caps) method of winterization. Using one of the kits will require about 5 gallons of that stuff for a SB chevy. Mercurys storage OG; Pink is -50, Blue is -100. Regular RV antifreeze is Ethanol.

 

[Cam62]

Thanks to all who replied. Newbie here, but not new to boats or engines....just the winterization methods. Don't need cracked blocks or plumbing so education is key and past experiences.
Cam62