On 4.3GL leave water drains closed after adding RV antifreeze?

USA_boater

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May seem like a stupid question but this is my first boat...logically it would seem the answer is leave them closed all winter once the engine was drained of water and then the pink stuff was added for winterization. However, you know what they say about assuming things so I had to ask.

I'd also add what about the raw pump hoses? I've seen people leave those undone for winterization and I'm wondering why you'd do that if the system was full of antifreeze? Is this just for people who drain and then NOT add the pink stuff? Is that even an option? This boat didn't have pink stuff when I got it (stored 5yrs w/ drains open). I am thinking the pink stuff is the better choice but is it a MUST in the middle of the country?
 

tpenfield

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Put some of the pink stuff in a smaller plastic bottle and leave it in a freezer for a day. You may be surprised at what happens to the AF. The reason for draining is to avoid any shortcomings in the antifreeze or the winterization method.

if you are in an area where the winter temps dip well below Zero F you will want to use the -75 or -100 variety of the antifreeze, if you are going to leave the engine filled with AF.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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all good questions. however unless the AF specifically says -100F, i wouldnt use it. the PG antifreeze does freeze. it is intended to be used in soft lines of RV's and its iffy if your block will survive. PG does still freeze.

air doesnt freeze. i personally never used PG antifreeze that wasnt specifically for motor storage, and after having that crap freeze, I quit using any AF. I did a few times use EG AF straight when i was much younger

here is what I did when i would winterize
pull drive, inspect bellows, u-joints and gimbal
re-install drive
drain drive oil, if there is presence of water in oil, pressure test, find leak and repair
re-fill drive oil
grease prop shaft(s)
grease drive pivots
run motor on muffs, get warm
change oil and filter
fire motor back up to verify no leaks
shut off motor
pull plugs - with all 5 plugs out (for your 4.3 - each side of block, each manifold and the t-stat cross-over) prod each of the drains to make sure they are clear.
pull the hose from the PS cooler to the raw water pump and drain
pull the large radiator hose and drain
pull impeller and put impeller and plugs in a baggie, zip tie the baggie and the keys to the steering wheel
put grease on the drain plug threads
pull batteries and put on tender charger
put shavings of irish spring in disposable bowls thruout the boat to keep spiders at bay
put bounce fabric softener sheets thruout the boat to prevent mice and to keep the boat smelling fresh
install weather cover or store inside.
 

USA_boater

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Thanks guys,

So it IS okay to NOT use anything in the block while stored...I thought I needed to use some sort of anti-corrosion/anti-freeze to store it over winter. As far as I know this boat has NEVER had that done. I bought it from a cousin who had it since it was 3yrs old and it was not in use for the last 5yrs. When I got it home and finally fired it up on the trailer, pieces of rust scale the size of 50 cent pieces were coming out the exhaust...mostly just small crumbs though. This boat was primarily used in a large freshwater lake that has a high salt content. I assumed the reason for the rust crumbs was because he wasn't properly winterizing the boat and was just draining the motor and not adding the anti-corrosion pink stuff.

It rarely gets below 20*F where I live in the winter so the winters are not as harsh as up North. Would this mean I DO NOT need to store the boat with any fluid in the block and can just drain it? I was wanting the anti-corrosion protection...IF the RV anti-freeze could crack the block, it sounds like I should not use it or perhaps run it through and then drain it but hopefully get some anti-corrosion effect anyway?

This boat will be stored outside with a cover on the side of my house in a fenced in area. Thankfully house shields it from part of the daily sun. I just need to "get down" my winterization procedure so when it comes time I know what to do. I will fog the cylinders, drain the water from the motor, stabilize the fuel, pull the batteries for tending...I already do that to my jetski...but I thought the pink stuff was something that was almost required for an inboard motor so maybe not?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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salt is what is contributing to the rusting. not a thing you can do about that except pull the elbows every 5 years and inspect. replace manifolds/elbows as required

if it makes you feel good to spend $ on antifreeze, then by all means spend money on it.
 

USA_boater

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 31, 2018
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Well I'd rather NOT have to mess with the anti-freeze...and this boat will never again be in the saltier lake (Texoma) so if moving forward it will be in only real fresh water, then you may have made me feel better in the way of not having the extra hassle of adding the pink stuff...perhaps a lot of the youtube vids of people doing that are people who use their boats in the coastal waters around Louisiana and Florida, etc.??? I am all for the simplest approach...so unless someone convinces me otherwise, I'll just drain it.

On another note, should I use any anti-seize compound or grease on the threads of the water drain plugs located on the block & manifolds? If so, what is the best choice?
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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11,802
I do use antifreeze; I use either the -100 for engines or o mix up Sierra no tox pg antifeeeze and I have a pg hydrometer to get the mix right. I just back fill the engine and manifolds after draining and poking the holes . I’m in salt water 100% and the block still had not rusted through 16+ years in salt. On a mooring so not flushed at all till end of season
 
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