Rebuilt burning oil

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Sep 1, 2017
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Looking for any insight into an issue that has been going on since last August with a rebuilt engine that is burning over a litre of oil to a ¼ tank of gas. Sorry long story coming up.


2002 Wellcraft Excaliber 190

4.3L Volvo Penta GL engine

SX drive.

Last year the original engine hydrolocked I had to replace it. I never was comfortable with the diagnosis that it was a cracked cylinder - likely due to poor winterization. Anyway I found a locally rebuilt engine from a reputable tech with over 30 years of experience and had him install it.

On the initial install we used the heads of my old engine because they had just been resurfaced. While the engine seemed to work well it sucked oil like crazy. On the first drive it went almost dry! In the driveway, it would spue out black sooty oil through the exhaust with a small rev of the engine. Boat went back to shop and they took it apart to check rings, clearances, piston wall - all was good. They replace the heads with the originals for the engine and this got rid of the sooty oil but it still burnt over a litre of oil every outing. Tech said to monitor and perhaps the rings need more time to seat. Fall came and the boat went to storage.

Fast forward this spring, I have another local tech check it out….. Compression was good, oil pressure was good, engine runs very smooth and very quiet. Only thing he noted was he couldn’t get the engine up to temp so he asked me to monitor it on the water.

So this spring I have been out about a half dozen times. The engine works very well, there is not signs of oil burn or leaking in the bilge or out the exhaust, but as mentioned the oil burn continued.

Both techs are now talking to each other and are at a loss for what is happening. Took it into the shop this past weekend and had them check it over again. They did replace the thermostat, which was sticking, but could not see any reason for the oil consumption. Plugs all look good with no evidence of oil burn. The only thing they noted was the oil was really black when they changed it - which puzzled them because the oil should be fresher.

Anyway, just back in from a run with it and the problem still exists. Will be going head to head soon with the tech that sold me the engine but any insights would be appreciated.

Oh, we are currently using 25-40 oil in it, also tried SAE 30 and another kind which I can’t recall - none of these are synthetic.

If I missed anything ask away.
 

alldodge

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reputable tech with over 30 years of experience

First motor hydrolocked and had a cracked cylinder.
Heads rebuilt and used on a motor found locally that was rebuilt.
Leaked all oil out of motor on first fire up in drive way
Oil was leaking oil on bilge
Used heads from original rebuilt motor and oil leak stopped but still burns a liter

Two different mech's and neither can figure it out but motor has been taken back apart by original builder for inspection and nothing found.
Burns oil but no signs on the plugs (1 liter of oil burned)

There is no way a freshly rebuilt motor will burn this kind of oil, IF it was done correctly. Without knowing more and having a discussion with the 2 mech's I'll just say your original rebuilder should not be rebuilding motors.

The motor is easy to rebuild and to leak/burn that amount of oil means someone messed up big time. If its leaking then just maybe the original block was used and with the cracked cylinder. If its burning then there is no way one or more of the plugs would not show signs.

Get a spark plug wrench and pull some plugs your self. Should take a 5/8 plug socket.
 

alldodge

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Ahh,,, the mystery eh! Plugs are all brown. Not leaking. What more information would you like?

The oil way for oil to get from the the motor and into the exhaust water flow is an oil cooler. If it was a cracked water jacket then water gets in the oil pan because the water has more pressure then inside the block. If there was a crack in the oil channels which feed the bearings and such, none are surrounded by a water jacket.

There has to be an oil cooler, or other external something that the oil lines to the remote oil filter goes to
 

tpenfield

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My guess is that 30 years of experience was enough for the engine rebuilder.
 

criscolumbus

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Any chance someone hooked a line to something weird? like from an oil pressure galley and happened to plumb it into the exhaust manifold or something? Like mentioned previously, check for some added oil cooler or remote mount oil filter.
 
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Thanks to all that have responded. To clarify, oil in the exhaust water is not a visible problem anymore - this seemed to be fixed when they swapped the heads.
 

alldodge

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Plugs are all brown. Not leaking

oil in the exhaust water is not a visible problem anymore - this seemed to be fixed when they swapped the heads.

No leaks, not burning, and no oil in the exhaust water, then the motor is not loosing or using oil, your good to go
 

89retta

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Have to agree with alldodge. You say plugs are good , no oil in bilge and your oil pressure is good. So my question is how do you know its using or burning oil ?
 

89retta

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Well oil is going somewhere.... I know because I check the DIPSTICK.

Only saying this just because it happens. Are you sure that you are making sure the dipstick is fully pushed all the way down ? Might not be fully seated and giving you a false reading.
 
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UPDTAE: So I discovered the original problem of black sooty oil in exhaust water is back - or never really went away. It's only noticeable when the engine is reved to 1200-1500 rpm. Initially we though the swapping of the heads fixed this, apparently not. Back to the shop tomorrow. I have a video that I will try to link up.
 

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alldodge

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Agree, also running the drive full up which is not good on U joints.

Is there a cooler inline somewhere?
 
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This is the original video, it's not near as bad this time but same concept. Couple of related forums suggest a PVC valve or HP oil pump as possible causes?
 

89retta

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UPDTAE: So I discovered the original problem of black sooty oil in exhaust water is back - or never really went away. It's only noticeable when the engine is reved to 1200-1500 rpm. Initially we though the swapping of the heads fixed this, apparently not. Back to the shop tomorrow. I have a video that I will try to link up.

With that much of a leak its the rear main seal. Talk to the guy who rebuilt it. I will guarantee that's where the leak is
 
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