1986 bayliner capri aq131a raw water issue, vent tube issue, and outdirve issue

[Stearns250]

The raw water pump is leaking water from the back of the pump as well as a few of the copper lines, I have replace all seals and it still leaks like crazy, if anyone has any tricks for this please let me know, as for the vent tube it doesn't seem like there is a whole lot of pressure coming out of the tube but oil does spit out of it and chokes up the carb. the carb I can get it to idle at 800 rpm but when I put the boat in gear the rpms drop and the boat dies. oh and I hit a rock with the prop and now I cant get the drive to go up. I did lift that fork up so I could bring the boat home but is there an adjustment that I cant seem to find or did I break the part that makes the drive go up and down.

 

[Stearns250]

oh and one other thing, I get the carb adjusted so that it will idle in neutral but as soon as I put it into gear the thing idles down and dies, any ideas. I have looked high and low and cant seem to find anything on adjustments for my issue.
thank you.

 

[alldodge]

leaking water from the back of the pump as well as a few of the copper lines,

Replaced the seals in the pump and it still leaks, says you need another pump. The shaft must be worn but if you post some pics of the pump shaft we might be able to figure out a fix.

Where are the lines leaking?

vent tube it doesn't seem like there is a whole lot of pressure coming out of the tube but oil does spit out of it and chokes up the carb

This is blow by and guess your motor needs rebuilt. Could verify with a compression test

 

[Scott Danforth]

blow by due to a tired motor will also explain the poor running.

 

[Stearns250]

I did a compression test all cylinders are 120 and over. I now know I put way too much oil in it. I didn't look up what the oil capacity was so I just filled it until the dip stick showed it was full, problem was it was on a trailer and the trailer was tilted forward. I added 6 quarts and it only takes 4. . But my main issue is the carb, I cant get it to idle and when I do I put it into gear and it dies right away. The water pump i am going to get a rebuild kit for it and replace the seal again and the shaft the shaft didn't look all that great. This is my first boat so i didn't know any better. the copper lines going to the fresh water strainer coming from the fresh water pump are leaking with new seals. I am going to investigate that next weekend. i am more interested in getting it running right then taking care of the water leaks.
thank you for the help. i have gone through the adults sticky and tried adjusting the carb 2 turns out on the air fuel screw i have the early model, and 2 turns after the screw touches the plate for idle then once warmed up i try to adjust but nothing really changes. I did rebuild the carb and all jets and ports seemed to be clear.

 

[Stearns250]

Also want to add that when i get it to go into gear the boat will do 30mph without an issue and will cruse slow, it runs great once i get it into gear without dying on me. runs at about 190 degrees at 4500 rpm without issues, ran it from one side of the lake to the other. mind you the lake is only like 12 miles long end to end.

 

[alldodge]

The 190 degree is a bit high, probably has to high a thermostat in it, should be no more then 160.

Need to do some carb work

 

[Maclin]

The AQ131a, being closed cooled due to aluminum castings in use, is specced from Volvo Penta for a 197 degree thermostat, so your temps seem in range.

 

[alldodge]

Wow, 197 on a boat
Thanks

 

[Stearns250]

so i am still having carb issues, timing seems to be spot on. would the timing change at idle?

 

[alldodge]

so i am still having carb issues, timing seems to be spot on. would the timing change at idle?

Unless the distributor has a problem the timing would not change. Sounding more like you either need some carb work or the fuel pump issue. I would start with the carb, and the fuel pump pressure should be between 3 to 7 psi at all rpm's

 

[Stearns250]

Ok I will work on it some more.
thank you.

 

[Stearns250]

ok sorry I am back, figured out the oil coming from the vent tube, did an oil change and found there to be 6 quarts of oil in it, still having issues with the carb but I think that is due to a vacuum leak. now my outdrive will no go up after I hit a few rocks at the lake. the outdrive was locked down when I hit the rocks the darn thing just stopped working. Can I get an idea of what to do to trouble shoot the tilt mechanism.

 

[kenny nunez]

Is there 12 volts to the tilt circuit? Can you here a “click” from the cover of the tilt unit when you try to raise or lower the drive? Check the connections at the battery.

 

[Stearns250]

There ia not as of now. It worked intermittently over the weekend.

 

[Stearns250]

So far I have fixed the carburetor, the seal on the back of the water pump is leaking again, I put a new seal shaft and brass bushings on it, also still have very little oil coming from the vent tube going to the carb. my main problem now is it starts great when its cold but once she is warmed up she is really hard to start, timing is right on, could it be the air fuel mixture? oh and my lift out device isn't working. I think its a relay, they got soaked in oil from when I put too much oil in it. I cant seem to find a part number if someone can help me with that that would be great, once again thank you for all the help.

 

[alldodge]

compression around 120

starts great when its cold but once she is warmed up she is really hard to start, timing is right on, could it be the air fuel mixture?

my lift out device isn't working.

Your compression is low but should still run good enough.

The mixture adjustments deal with idle and not so much starting. Since it does it when cold and hard when warmed up I would say you need more carb work. Check the float height it may be to high. Does it start easier if you give it 1/2 throttle?

What is your lift out device, maybe the trim?

 

[kenny nunez]

Look at the starter solenoid, there is a male spade that is on the 3 o’clock position, connect a wire from that spade to the + or BAT side of the coil, this will provide 12 volts to the coil when cranking and should help the hot start problem.

 

[kenny nunez]

The relays are somewhat generic and can be found at all the auto stores. Remove the cover from the lift unit and check for both positive and negative voltage to the 2 relays.

 

[Stearns250]

I will try all suggestions mentioned Friday, thank you guys, been working on this boat for a year and I finally feel like I am getting somewhere.