Water inside outdrive boot?

[kdiddle]

Evening all. I"m in the middle of an engine swap for a 5.0 GXI and have removed the outdrive. However, when I removed it, I noticed there was standing water in the rubber boot where the driveshaft resides. I wouldn't think anything of it, except that I imagine that is below the water line and it doesn't seem right that the driveshaft should be sitting in water right?

In case its not 100% obvious, this is my first Volvo Penta engine swap. My service manual just didn't reference water being in there and wanted to make sure I'm not going to put it back in bad shape.

 

[alldodge]

Correct water should not be there, your boot is probably leaking and needs to be replaced

 

[kdiddle]

So, assuming my boot is not perforated somewhere, is it likely that its coming in around the driveshaft? I guess I'm having a hard time understanding how it keeps water out since I don't recall any gasket material where the upper gear housing meets the gimbal bearing housing. Sorry if that's a terrible description. I have a picture I can share, but it looks like the input side of the upper gear housing is exposed to water (outside the bellows).

 

[alldodge]

Water should never be found in the drive shaft area. This area has U-joints and gimbal bearing which if water gets into these areas there will be a failure. The boot seals around the drive shaft area, then the drive seals the water from the shaft area after install.

There are some variations, but would need to know which drive do you have?

 

[kdiddle]

Thanks for all the help, AllDodge. Its a DP-SM. See the attached picture. You can tell water has been where the red arrows are, but there is no gasket surface to keep water out between the upper gearcase and the transom unit. Which means (I assume) the water is kept out by the internal seal circled in blue. I recall it being rubber. Isn't it possible that is leaking? I seem to recall my service manual saying I have to put Volvo 'waterproof' grease on this assembly before I reassemble.

 

[alldodge]

While not a Vp expert, it looks to work just like the Mercruiser Bravo drive. The Merc has no seal on the drive shaft area "other then" the boat seal it self. The boot end which comes in contact with the outer housing of the drive assembly is where the sealing takes place

 

[BRICH1260]

Is there any rust/corrosion on the drive shaft and U joints? You might want to pull the pivot housing off too and get a better look at the gamble bearing. Be prepared to replace all of the above. The water seal is created when the nose come of the drive slides inside the rear seal of the bellows. Yes, you will need to apply a generous amount of grease on the nose area.

 

[Thalasso]

Your swapping out the engine? replace the bellows and gimble bearing at the same time

 

[kdiddle]

Thanks for the input all. I went ahead and ordered bellows and will check gimble bearing when I can get back over there.

Regarding the seal, I'm suprised that only grease is used to seal the gear housing to the rear of the bellows. My manual references Volvo special 'waterproof' grease...guess I need to go on the hunt for it, as all I can find is propeller grease (#828250).

 

[Lou C]

Pick up a tube of Evinrude triple guard grease, it's one of the best out there and is really waterproof. You also can coat the making surfaces of the drive & pivot housing to prevent corrosion there. This sometimes happens and results in the drive getting stuck on. Lastly you can also use it to lube the driveshaft splines when re installing the drive.
you will also have to get an alignment bar and align the new engine by adjusting the front engine mounts.

 

[Lou C]

Pick up a tube of Evinrude triple guard grease, it's one of the best out there and is really waterproof. You also can coat the making surfaces of the drive & pivot housing to prevent corrosion there. This sometimes happens and results in the drive getting stuck on. Lastly you can also use it to lube the driveshaft splines when re installing the drive.
you will also have to get an alignment bar and align the new engine by adjusting the front engine mounts.

 

[kdiddle]

Found it and ordered it...thanks for the help Lou C.

I also purchased an alignment bar (holy crap that thing is heavy), and marked all my mounts before removal so I should at least be in the ballpark with the new motor and shouldn't have to adjust it far.