Replacing a 434A

[tpothen]

Hi all. I have a 1994 Wellcraft Eclipse 182S that's been in my wife's family since new. Several years ago the 434A was not winterized correctly and ended up with a cracked block and while researching, I have found that the 434A was only produced for 3 years, so a replacement seems to be hard to come by. Has anyone replaced the 434A with something newer? Any idea what else would mount up to the DP/CD outdrive?

The entire boat is going to be restore project and I know I'll spend more than just buying a different boat but my wife is set on restoring the family boat and it's about the project and tinkering for me.

 

[Bondo]

I have found that the 434A was only produced for 3 years,

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... I don't do much with Volvos, But,......

I'm guessin' (18' boat) the 434A is Volvo's name for that vintage/ incarnation of the long lived Chevy 3.0l motor,...
The Chevy 3.0l has been in production since the '60s, 'n is still in production today,....
Volvo uses some pretty weird numberin' systems,...

If I'm Right,.... All ya need is a new/ reman 3.0l long block crate motor,...
You'd strip all the Volvo stuff off the frozen busted motor, 'n install 'em back onto the new/ reman 3.0l long block crate motor,....
Ya end up with a new motor, dressed in the original accessories,...

 

[Lou C]

Actually this one is simple, its nothing more than a GM/Chevy 4.3, and the 4 part is a 4bbl Holley carb. 43=4.3 liter 4=4bbl carb.
​So you can go with a new Crate GM Marine 4.3 and re-use the Holley carb and have it rebuilt if needed. I'd also replace the starter and alternator when the engine was out.

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en...-23-12523.aspx

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en...-21-12442.aspx

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en...-21-12435.aspx

​now I'm spending your money but if I were putting in a brand new engine, at least a half closed cooling system would make it easier to winterize and make it last longer.

 

[alldodge]

Retract, Lou got it

 

[tpothen]

Thanks Lou. I hadn't considered a crate motor. So something like this and then bolt on all my current motor parts?

https://www.tristarengines.com/mari...-3l-marine-engine-fits-1993-1996-applications

I only went with this company because it's about an hour away so I could pick it up. I'm open to suggestions though.

 

[Bondo]

'n thanks for explainin' the Volvo numberin' system,....

 

[alldodge]

If your getting a new crate motor go see your local GM dealer and see what he can get you one for, either that or look thru the net.

 

[Lou C]

Yep that would work, but keep in mind that you may need other parts as well, due to the engine cracking:
​1) intake manifold, because there is a water passage in it right under the thermostat housing that allows coolant flow from each cyl heads up out the thermostat housing
​2) the whole exhaust system (risers and manifolds) if they were not drained. Aftermarket replacements are out there, I just got a nice Barr set to replace my OMC one piece batwings.
​3) some VP engines like the OMCs had a P/S cooler on the back of the engine, this could be split too because of not being winterized.

​Re-man vs new crate engine, I think for a few bucks more, ie about 400-500 I'd go new. New 4.3 balance shaft Vortec engine with roller lifter cam.

​

 

[Lou C]

'n thanks for explainin' the Volvo numberin' system,....

​Your'e welcome! I find their catalog very hard to navigate, as I've been getting some Volvo parts that can be used in place of NLA OMC parts, like certain hoses, misc parts etc.
​OMC used a much simpler system, but similar with the engine displacement being the first 2 #s, the third signified 2 or 4 bbl carb, M or P was manual or Power steering, etc. OMC also broke it down by model years whereas Volvo does not seem to, they group together a whole wide span of model years....

 

[Scott Danforth]

434A was produced for 1 year. the following year the 434B was produced.

in volvo-nomenclature, motors ending with A, B, C..... refer to the year of production of that particular combination.

its a 4.3 motor, with a 4-barrel carb. get a salvage yard 4.3 for $300, new manifolds, elbows, etc and a 4.3 intake from ebay.....motor will be back up and running for under $1000

a reman long-block motor is $1800 and up
a new long block motor is $2300 and up

with this route, your back up and running for $2500+

since you have a blank canvas, I would go for the 1996 and newer motors with the vortec cylinder heads

here is some light reading http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...history-of-the-4-3-liter-with-casting-numbers

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the manifold riser will match the Y pipe, go for the merc 4.3 plug and play,just change the rear housing and maybe the couplker, parts will be a lot cheaper

 

[tpothen]

Rebuilding the engine will be a first for me, I've done small motors but nothing like this so bear with me. I wouldn't know what to look for in a salvage yard motor so I would probably be safer to go with reman or new, it'll come down to the overall cost but i am willing to spend more for better quality.

If I upgrade to the 4.3 Vortec will I have issues bolting it up to the DP/CD outdrive? Something along the lines as this one?

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/vortec-base-marine-engine-1996-current-replacement-p-283.html

 

[Scott Danforth]

Rebuilding the engine will be a first for me, I've done small motors but nothing like this so bear with me. I wouldn't know what to look for in a salvage yard motor so I would probably be safer to go with reman or new, it'll come down to the overall cost but i am willing to spend more for better quality.

If I upgrade to the 4.3 Vortec will I have issues bolting it up to the DP/CD outdrive? Something along the lines as this one?

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/vortec-base-marine-engine-1996-current-replacement-p-283.html

let me help you since you did not do any reading.

you have the same things to look for regardless if you get a motor from a GM dealer, a marine shop (who buys it from volvo who buys it from GM, therefore making it 3X the cost) or you get a motor built at a local machine shop or you pull a low-mileage motor from a you-pick salvage. High cost does not = quality, in some cases it simply means that there are 2-3 middle men getting 30% markup

you have a 1994 motor now. so you have a balance shaft motor. moving to vortec heads does not change the block, it only changes the heads, which does impact the intake manifold. however on a 4.3, most likely the intake manifold is cracked as well as the thermostat housing cross-over retains water (has drain plug). vortec intake manifolds have 8 bolts. 1995 and earlier have 12 bolts. the link you provided is a vortec motor. it is also $3k. the same motor from a GM dealer would be about $2500 (under $2k for a truck motor where you only need to change the head gaskets) http://www.gmpowertrainwarehouse.com/12491869.asp

if you want to stay with your exact block/head combination you have now, look for a 1992-1995 motor (use the link I posted to get casting numbers). if you want a motor with vortec heads, look for 1996 and later motors

new vortec heads are under $500 a pair. vortec intake is $30 for a used GM cast-iron piece, and $330 for a new dual-alloy marine piece. your oil pan, accessories, etc will need to be moved over.

 

[Lou C]

You will have to find out if there were any changes when they went from the non vortec to the vortec engines in the flywheel, since that's the part that the drivetrain has to mate to. These drives used a different set up than the later SX series which were like an OMC Cobra with a conventional coupler. There is some kind of torsional damper that bolts to the flywheel on the older style Volvo and the primary drive shaft is splined to that I think...
​So find out if the same flywheel was used on all versions of the 4.3, if so, then fine if not then you have to find out when it was changed from what you have.

It looks like they are all the same after '87 but I'd check anyway:

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/flywheel-1987-later-engines-diameter-p-152.html

​If you get a long block you might be able to use your original flywheel, and whatever did not come bolted to the long block. As Scott said if you go with a Vortec engine, the intake manifold is different but you have to replace that anyway most likely due to not winterizing.

​If you are going with a re-man engine then I'd want to use a local supplier, just in case of any issues. If you want a new GM marine crate engine then a GM dealer might be my first stop.

​There are a few other differences, as in the Vortec engines do not have provision for a mechanical fuel pump as the older ones did, so you have to go with an electric fuel pump.

 

[tpothen]

Thanks again to both of you for the help. I finally got all the parts rounded up (A family member thought they were going to rebuild this and then left it in pieces). After reading through this post, Scott's link, and a ton of other info, it appears that the motor isn't original to the boat. The engine cover says 434A but the valve covers say Vortec, the intake manifold has the 8 bolt pattern, and the entire engine is red except the exhaust manifolds.

 

[Lou C]

So it was re-done once before, looks like you can go with a Vortec engine, either new or re-manufactured. I wonder how many marine engines would have been saved if only the manufacturers made closed cooling standard equipment as it was on the Volvo 4 cyl engines?