SeattleSlim
Cadet
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2017
- Messages
- 9
New boat guy here - I hit a roadblock. I have a 2007 Regal 2450 with a Volvo Penta... boat runs, rather, ran like a dream. Just 125 hours on it.
I was out on the water this weekend, and after about 4 hours anchored, the boat wouldn't start. Long after I turned off the engine and was in ACC mode, I shorted out the cigarette lighter and popped the 12V circuit breaker trying to get an air pump working. In Neutral, when I turn the key to ACC or On, nothing happens. Gauges don't register, and there is no typical warning beep when going from Off->ACC. The radio also doesn't start (usually has to be in ACC or On mode to power up). I have power to all of my lights and trim motor (phew). Blower switch works.
Needless to say, we got towed home...
So, I checked some things today with my voltmeter...
I have two batteries - one reads 12.5V, and the other read between 10.8-11.8V when I was performing testing. (During ALL successive testing, I used the ALL setting (Battery 1+2) on my battery selector that gave me 12.5V across the hot bus below the cockpit.) I checked the 1A fuse sitting on top of the battery on the right - there is continuity there. I think this red and black wire leads to the starter motor... And, I don't know what that small lone red wire is hanging between the two batteries - you can see the end connector broke off at some point. It's never been hooked up since I have owned the boat.
Sorry this pic is upside down. I register 12.5V through my hot / cold busses under the cockpit when power switch is on. There are no circuit breakers currently tripped. As I mentioned, just the 12V breaker tripped when the cig lighter failed. The breaker is good now.
When I looked up the cockpit - this is what I saw... on the left is the + and - hookup of the broken cig lighter - I removed the broken port from the dashboard. Then the circuit breaker for the hot of my ignition switch. I checked and this switch has continuity. Then there are two switches on the dashboard - one bilge and one blower - both work. Then, you can see the ignition switch - at some point the red/black wire was disconnected - not sure if it was when I was fumbling with the cig lighter, or it was like that for a while. I reconnected the red/black wire for all successive testing. There is also a 10A fuse (not pictured) wired from the ignition switch circuit breaker to the ignition switch hot wire - this fuse has continuity.
I can't register any juice going into the hot wire upstream of the circuit breaker. I think this is my root cause. But I don't know where else to look. When the ignition switch is in ACC or On mode, there is no continuity in the switch from hot (red) to purple, but there is continuity from purple to yellow/red.
I have a new ignition switch and a 12V cig lighter I'll install tomorrow. If this doesn't fix it, I don't know what will.
Here is the fuse box on the side of my engine - I checked the F4 IGN fuse and it's good.
Here's the engine, all sad and stuff...
Thanks for any advice.
I was out on the water this weekend, and after about 4 hours anchored, the boat wouldn't start. Long after I turned off the engine and was in ACC mode, I shorted out the cigarette lighter and popped the 12V circuit breaker trying to get an air pump working. In Neutral, when I turn the key to ACC or On, nothing happens. Gauges don't register, and there is no typical warning beep when going from Off->ACC. The radio also doesn't start (usually has to be in ACC or On mode to power up). I have power to all of my lights and trim motor (phew). Blower switch works.
Needless to say, we got towed home...
So, I checked some things today with my voltmeter...
I have two batteries - one reads 12.5V, and the other read between 10.8-11.8V when I was performing testing. (During ALL successive testing, I used the ALL setting (Battery 1+2) on my battery selector that gave me 12.5V across the hot bus below the cockpit.) I checked the 1A fuse sitting on top of the battery on the right - there is continuity there. I think this red and black wire leads to the starter motor... And, I don't know what that small lone red wire is hanging between the two batteries - you can see the end connector broke off at some point. It's never been hooked up since I have owned the boat.
Sorry this pic is upside down. I register 12.5V through my hot / cold busses under the cockpit when power switch is on. There are no circuit breakers currently tripped. As I mentioned, just the 12V breaker tripped when the cig lighter failed. The breaker is good now.
When I looked up the cockpit - this is what I saw... on the left is the + and - hookup of the broken cig lighter - I removed the broken port from the dashboard. Then the circuit breaker for the hot of my ignition switch. I checked and this switch has continuity. Then there are two switches on the dashboard - one bilge and one blower - both work. Then, you can see the ignition switch - at some point the red/black wire was disconnected - not sure if it was when I was fumbling with the cig lighter, or it was like that for a while. I reconnected the red/black wire for all successive testing. There is also a 10A fuse (not pictured) wired from the ignition switch circuit breaker to the ignition switch hot wire - this fuse has continuity.
I can't register any juice going into the hot wire upstream of the circuit breaker. I think this is my root cause. But I don't know where else to look. When the ignition switch is in ACC or On mode, there is no continuity in the switch from hot (red) to purple, but there is continuity from purple to yellow/red.
I have a new ignition switch and a 12V cig lighter I'll install tomorrow. If this doesn't fix it, I don't know what will.
Here is the fuse box on the side of my engine - I checked the F4 IGN fuse and it's good.
Here's the engine, all sad and stuff...
Thanks for any advice.
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