Hi Volvo Pentians, I need help. I am not new to boating, have owned saltwater sportfishers and sailboats over the years but did just buy my first trailer boat. A low hour (135hr) 2006 Cobalt 220 with the VP 8.1 Gi-F engine and DPS. The previous owner hydro-locked the engine when it was out of the water and on the trailer. He used the blue freshwater flush connector. He said he connected it, climbed down from the boat to go turn the water on (high as described in the VP owner’s manual), climbed back on the boat and turned the ignition. Nothing. He towed it to a marine engine shop where they confirmed water in some of the cylinders. They blew the water out, bore scoped each cylinder and compression tested all as well. Everything was good. Tech started the engine in the shop using the same blue flush connector, engine ran fine, came up to temperature. He idled it for more than 1/2 an hour, also ran it up quickly a couple of times to 2500 rpm. All was good. Based upon the tech's positive feedback I agreed to sea trial the boat with the owner. We had it out for more than an hour and ran it under all conditions. Ran perfect. This was in San Diego and in salt water.
I bought the boat and hauled it back to Phoenix. I then flushed the salt out of the engine and risers. I hooked up the hose to the blue flush connector, turned the faucet all the way on, good water flow out of the sterndrive exhaust, and started the engine. It ran good, came up to temperature and I turned the engine off and disconnected the hose form the blue flush connector.
Today, in preparation for my first launching of the boat tomorrow, I decided to run the engine one more time just to make sure everything was okay. Connected the hose to the blue flush connector, turned water on, tried to start engine. Quick groan and nothing. I suspected it was hydro-locked again so I pulled a plug and indeed, clean fresh water was in the cylinder. I will remove all plugs, pull the ignition relay and will turn the engine over a few times to get the water out before connecting muffs on the sterndrive and starting the engine that way.
I called the previous owner and queried him more about the hydro-locked scenario. He said he always used muffs prior to the last time he flushed the engine and after reading more about the simple blue flush connector he decided to give it a try and it hydro-locked the engine. He then went on to confess he had over heated the engine last summer when he ran through some mud during low tide. He had the water pump and impeller changed then.
Thanks for reading through this long post, but my question is, why or how, can water migrate through the blue connector into the intake manifold and subsequently the cylinder in less than 1 min? Could it have something to do with the sterndrive being tilted up? It was up this morning – last time I flushed the drive it was in normal running position as I had been cleaning it. Could something have happened when it overheated last year that would allow water intrusion? The engine ran perfectly fine during the sea trial three weeks ago. Oil is clean, no evidence of moisture or water in it, so I am ruling out the head gasket. The engine also has good compression in all cylinders. The risers were removed and inspected by the tech in San Diego. He said they looked good (I trust this tech. I lived in San Diego for 20 years and used this same guy numerous times).
A doozy of a first post I know. I do thank all for any input provided.
Dan
I bought the boat and hauled it back to Phoenix. I then flushed the salt out of the engine and risers. I hooked up the hose to the blue flush connector, turned the faucet all the way on, good water flow out of the sterndrive exhaust, and started the engine. It ran good, came up to temperature and I turned the engine off and disconnected the hose form the blue flush connector.
Today, in preparation for my first launching of the boat tomorrow, I decided to run the engine one more time just to make sure everything was okay. Connected the hose to the blue flush connector, turned water on, tried to start engine. Quick groan and nothing. I suspected it was hydro-locked again so I pulled a plug and indeed, clean fresh water was in the cylinder. I will remove all plugs, pull the ignition relay and will turn the engine over a few times to get the water out before connecting muffs on the sterndrive and starting the engine that way.
I called the previous owner and queried him more about the hydro-locked scenario. He said he always used muffs prior to the last time he flushed the engine and after reading more about the simple blue flush connector he decided to give it a try and it hydro-locked the engine. He then went on to confess he had over heated the engine last summer when he ran through some mud during low tide. He had the water pump and impeller changed then.
Thanks for reading through this long post, but my question is, why or how, can water migrate through the blue connector into the intake manifold and subsequently the cylinder in less than 1 min? Could it have something to do with the sterndrive being tilted up? It was up this morning – last time I flushed the drive it was in normal running position as I had been cleaning it. Could something have happened when it overheated last year that would allow water intrusion? The engine ran perfectly fine during the sea trial three weeks ago. Oil is clean, no evidence of moisture or water in it, so I am ruling out the head gasket. The engine also has good compression in all cylinders. The risers were removed and inspected by the tech in San Diego. He said they looked good (I trust this tech. I lived in San Diego for 20 years and used this same guy numerous times).
A doozy of a first post I know. I do thank all for any input provided.
Dan