SX-M Questions

[GMTK]

Great post, this helps me a ton as I will start this in a few weeks.

Did you replace the 6 nuts that hold the outdrive to the transom? If so, do you have a part number?
Did you also replace the rear seal behind the gimble bearing? I've heard that is impossible to get out.

 

[bruceb58]

Great post, this helps me a ton as I will start this in a few weeks.

Did you replace the 6 nuts that hold the outdrive to the transom? If so, do you have a part number?
Did you also replace the rear seal behind the gimble bearing? I've heard that is impossible to get out.

No need to replace the nuts every time. The seal behind the gimbal bearing doesn't need to be replaced.

Make sure you do replace the oblong o-ring around the water passage.

You should really start a new thread and put this thread in as a reference.

 

[GA_Boater]

GMTK Moved this out of an old thread for better visibility.

You originally posted here - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...llows-and-gimbal-bearing-install-step-by-step

 

[GMTK]

Thanks to all for the help so far. Here are the parts list I have compiled so far. This assumes the gimble bearing is in good shape (I have no reason to think otherwise).

Seal for water hose area - p/n 3852560-6
Thrust washers (2) - p/n 3852697
Thrust washers (2) - p/n 3852558
O-rings (2) - p/n 997368-2
Grease - p/n 828250
Sealant - p/n 1161099
Wheel bearing grease (for drive shaft splines, gimble bearing and u-joint)
U-joint bellow - p/n 22197130

Alignment tool (ordering off ebay).

I plan on making a stand for the outdrive.

Couple of questions:

Does the gear oil have to be drained? I only ask because I just changed it and hate to waste it.

When using the alignment tool, if I do NOT replace the gimble bearing, do I still "knock" the alignment tool in the four directions as per the PDF in the stickies? Also, how to I rotate the engine 90 degress manually? Is there a way to turn it by hand or with a wrench on the front of the engine? (4.3L 4.3 GXI-E)

I have the manual and am ordering a hard copy.

My main concern is having the proper parts on hand. Nearest dealer is 180 miles away so everything will be shipped in.

Thanks to all.

 

[bruceb58]

If you changed the gear oil, you don't have to change it again.

You should be able to rotate the engine with the alternator or one of the other items using the drive belt. If it doesn't turn easily and the belt slips, pull the plugs.

You do not need to knock the alignment bar when you aren't changing the gimbal bearing.

 

[GMTK]

Thanks Bruce, appreciate the replies. I'm betting that by the time I'm done with this project I will be sending you a gift card as a thank you....

 

[GA_Boater]

Copied Bruce's reply from the other thread for continuity.

 

[Lou C]

One last thing I have not seen mentioned in either of these threads, the Volvo SX uses a similar transom design to the OMC Cobra, except that the Cobra uses a gasket between the pivot housing and the drive, the Volvo does not. In some cases esp with boats that are stored in the water, it is possible to get corrosion in the areas where the studs are that go into the pivot housing, and on the drive in the mating surfaces. Due to metal to metal contact and no gasket to insulate the drive from the pivot housing, it can get corroded on. There was one member on here who had a terrible time getting the drive off. So I'd advise coating the mating surfaces with a good water proof grease like OMC/Bombardier triple guard grease. Just put a coating on each mating surface were the 6 studs are when you install the drive next time. That will make future removal much easier in some cases.