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An Eska journey. from that to this

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  • An Eska journey. from that to this

    In Nova Scotia, Canada there arn't too many Eskas left to find. when you do get lucky, you may not be as lucky as you think. First they rot from the outside in. (ns is almost completely surrounded by salt water)These outboards were not made for an acid bath in the atlantic ocean! So when i find one it looks a lot like this one. (not the worst i've seen by a long shot)Click image for larger version

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    most of the bolts broke while trying to get it apart. with or without heat did'nt seem to make a difference. But finally it came apart and with a little bead blasting, it only looked 30 years old. after alot of elbow grease and some interesting ideas, this one turned out like this.Click image for larger version

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    Over the next week i an going to list and show as many of the mods as i can

    these are some of the topics 1. Engine a.9.9 to 15 carb
    b. enlarging air fuel intake.
    c. fuelpump vac
    d. silencer

    2. ignition a.timing change
    b. cooling the stator
    c. modern kill switch

    3. remote controls

  • #2
    Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

    If you like your Eska and are not really handy, don't try this at home. this is a 380, 9.9 block.


    After the engine block was split, i proceeded to enlarge the intake. the hole was marked on the outside at 1 inch.using an air die grinder i carfully removed material untill the hole met the line and the entrance was smooth and even, then the inside was carved out to meet smoothly with roundness of the outer coping. the inside is kinda sensitive because of the copper bearing/seal. any scratches on this suface will render your motor into an anchor. i cut out enough that the opening is now slightly bigger than a 15 hp block, but much smoother transition. it doesn't have any flat spot left for the mixture to snub up against and stem the flow.Click image for larger version

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    i traded up to a 15 hp carb with the side mount fuel pump,simply blocking off the vac hole on the carb flange with a gasket withou the vac hole. i used the hole on the block marked red for the vac. drilled it out and tapped it with a 1\8 pipe tap and screwed a barb into the hole. ran the vac line from there to the fuel pumpClick image for larger version

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    • #3
      Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

      nice work on the eska! just curious....whats the plexi-glass set up for? ( cant quite tell from the pic, but it look like linkages inside it? )
      many men fish for years without ever knowing its not about catching one.

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      • #4
        Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

        thats a set oof controls that i made. it has a 1\8 aluminum base plate and two 1/8 lexan plates for the othr 2. i did that so you can see the works inside. turned out better that i imagined.got to go to work now, i'll try to post this eve with the next installment

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        • #5
          Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

          here's a little more for the hardcore Eska people. some fellas think that a silencer on an Eska is not needed. some say" there's 50 year old outboards out there still runnig like a top, and they never had a silencer/ air cleaner. yeh! but for every one of those good runners, there are 50 million dead ones. a run into some fluffy bullrushes is all that it would take. your engine ingests a dozen fluffys and burns the top of your piston out.that is not the only good thing about it. it will make a huge difference in noise levels. Eska's are well known to be rather loud, not so good if youre cruiseing a private lake at 6 in the morning. even redirrecting the sound towards the back of the machine is better for the opperator. heres several samples. A word of warning, use only proper open pore foam as an air cleaner otherwise it can be sucked in itself
          every Eska twin that i rebuild gets an extra motor mount on the back of the powerhead. used a omc off the shelf rubber mount and fabed a simple bracket. bolts on with the bottom two bolts for the cylinder cooling cover. this makes idle as smooth as silk. i am a lot less tuckered out at the end of the day as well.Click image for larger version

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          another thing that i do is upgrade to a teathered kill switch. 7.99 $ from your local boat shop. you have to drill the hole out to 5/8 or 11/16,cant remember which. bye for now.
          Last edited by todd ashley peters; March 12th, 2012, 05:48 PM. Reason: got the wrong end

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          • #6
            Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

            remind me to stay out of the fluffy bullrushes Todd

            We cant see the attachments...they never seem to work
            paint looks nice...have you noticed that the older 9.9's used bushings in the lower instead of needle bearings like the 15hp? also on the newer design I don't think the motor mount would work, not sure but the engine mounts different and with out that exhaust tube spacer thing in your first pic

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            • #7
              Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

              Click image for larger version

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ID:	7030189 mrcrabs, pics are like eskas. sometimes they work sometimes not.try that

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              • #8
                Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                Nice work on the air silencer, wow a pimped out Eska, now you just need a amp and subwoofer and a spinner on the prop.

                Todd what have you done for the hoods? I have a tall hood I'm wanting to repair/restore for a 9.9 of about the same vintage as yours but its cracking up from age and UV's....hood bases are the same but hight is determined by model so not all twin hoods are the same.

                2
                . ignition a.timing change
                b. cooling the stator
                Timing up or down? with that flywheel I would guess 2-4 degress retarded since it has loser springs and will achive a full 30 degrees on the tool??? and how did you go about cooling the stator...must be little fans eh? I'm very interested in what your doing with the mechanics.
                but don't give it to much advance or you will cook them thar pistons, my 15 will detonate lower than 27 degrees per the timing tools

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                • #9
                  Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                  good afternoon. hoods! hhhhh! well to tell you the truth,i've had exceptional luck with the hoods being in great shape. not the one that blew off the trailer at 70 mph however. should have taken a pic of that. a little brittle i'd say. but speaking of pimping out, had to do something in the interm so i made a pattern for the bottom and made that out of 3/8 x 1/16 alum channel and a slight frame work of .060 sheet. then simply clad it with eastern white cedar and the front with .040 alum. not an easy way to go but it got me by till i found another one. sold the motor some time ago but still have the ugly cedar hood. any way if your hood still has its shape and its not too broke up i would use mas epoy or an equivalent with 4 oz fibrglass cloth. i would lay it up on the inside and do a bit of body work to the outside after. brush on the first application of the resin, resin only. let it set up until its dry but stiil tacky, then another coat of resin,then the cloth. let dry till tacky then another coat of resin. that should be enough for good stength but not too heavy..let dry completely then sand it out. spray paint to cover up. epoxy is not cheap but should'nt be to bad for a small project. i build boats as well so i have used a lot of it and find new uses for it all the time. none will go to waste.. then do the outside body work and paint as desired.Click image for larger version

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ID:	7030234.this is one of the 9.9 with a bushed gearcase

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                  • #10
                    Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                    well my method of modifying the timing is not conventional but resulted in really smooth idle, super easy starts, and a few more rpms at wot. i ground down both counterweights exactly the same as each other, removing about .050-.060" off the side that butts up to the outter stops on the flywheel. i also removed slightly less from the inner stops on the trigger puck. this gives the same variable timing with slightly lower and upper limits, giving retarded condition for idle and easy starts, as well as advancing it slightly for wot conditions . this is more obvious with the "1" charge coil stator than the double coil stator. and more obvious on the 9.9 than the 15.Click image for larger version

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ID:	7030237 i did not mod the springs, however i did mod the flywheel to cool the stator. got 6, 1\4" holes drilled in a milling machine at a 45 degree angle to the horizontal plane, tangent to the crankshaft. i made up a ballancer with a high speed drill and a dial indicater. basically drilled out little spots just like they did in the factory untill there was very little deflection on the dial. so when the flywheel spins it blows air down across the stator.Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                      Thanks Todd, I had done some reading on using epoxy on the old plastic but wasn't clear on if it would stick ok or not, The cedar hood reminds me of a truck bumper I saw the other day made from a cedar log....LOL...

                      I got lucky on ebay and found a almost mint 9.9 hood

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                      • #12
                        Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                        Thats got to be the prettest flywheel I ever saw, I found the newer style 15hp flywheel springs to be alot stronger than older style...CDI elctronics helped me get my timing setup to start easy and pur, the new CDI ssi had considerable more bite than the old SSI and I used autolite number 86 plugs....all I can say is follow the specs use the timing tools and dial indicator or it idles and runs like crap,

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                        • #13
                          Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                          you must have the taller flywheel. had a couple of those with some motors i bought and thought they belonged to something else. well got 60 cents a pound for them.

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                          • #14
                            Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                            No Eska changed to a smaller diamiter flywheel around 1975ish I think....I weighed them respectively and there the same but full advance on the smaller flywheel is only 28 degrees while the older bigger one like yours is 30d, also these timing specs changed to accommodate gasoline changes around that time frame, the height thing comes into play with the base your engine sets on, on my 1979 15hp I don't have the spacer like you show in your first post, and carb and choke linkage changed as well...this spacer/exhaust tube requires about another inch or more of hood heigth...at first I thought it was the flywheel but its just a design and engineering thing

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                            • #15
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                              Re: An Eska journey. from that to this

                              Click image for larger version

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ID:	7030255yeh i never saw one up close that was newer than 76. yours is way diff.mine all sit on a flat plate not an open one like that man they must had had some pile of different configs for these things. i think they wre different from province to province for goodness sake. nothing wrong with variety. they just kept trying to get it wright i guess. and thats why i have seen different shaped hoods. i thought that was because they were just different brand names that had other styles of hoods. and i thought that i was going to make it a day without learning something new. ehhh i'm not dead yet.
                              Last edited by todd ashley peters; March 13th, 2012, 07:17 PM. Reason: add image

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