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Montgomery Ward Sea King 45GG-9015A - Help me get it running!

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  • Montgomery Ward Sea King 45GG-9015A - Help me get it running!

    Hello all. A couple of months ago we began cleaning out my grand parents basement. In doing so we found an older Sea King. I tried to get it running but so far no luck. I put fresh gas and new plugs but still nothing. Upon getting the top of it opened I figured out my issue. The coil pack..things...are shot. They crumbled to pieces before I even touched them. I have got them pulled out now but need to know where to get new and, the spark plug wire that goes with them. At least on these original ones, the wire seemed to have fed into the bottom of the coil and was a permanent sort of fixture. Any help on this? Attached are some pictures for reference as to what I am talking about.






  • #2
    Would this be what I need?

    http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=822620791

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    • #3
      Yes, those are the right coils. You might as well do the points and condensers while you're in there- OMC part # 172522. The plug wires will pull out of the original coils. The old ones had a pin that went into the wires, the new style have a screw that goes into the wire. Cut off 1/4" or so to get a good clean connection.

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      • #4
        Your motor is a 1954, manufactured by Gale Products; a division of OMC....The Johnson and Evinrude guys. You can tell that it is a 1954 by looking at the model number.....the first two digits (45) are the year in reverse. Clever; eh?

        Your motor is a Gale Mod 5S10.....and you can get a manual for it here:

        https://richardlpaquette.ca/GaleProd...viceManual.pdf

        In addition to replacing the ignition....count on opening up the carburetor for a good cleaning and by all means check the lower unit oil before you run it.

        Fuel mix should be 16:1 initially using the TC-W3 outboard type oil.

        Seakaye


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        • #5
          May I suggest you use this one instead of the Sierra? I just like CDI parts better. http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=135404332

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          • #6
            Originally posted by SeaKaye12 View Post
            Your motor is a 1954, manufactured by Gale Products; a division of OMC....The Johnson and Evinrude guys. You can tell that it is a 1954 by looking at the model number.....the first two digits (45) are the year in reverse. Clever; eh?

            Your motor is a Gale Mod 5S10.....and you can get a manual for it here:

            https://richardlpaquette.ca/GaleProd...viceManual.pdf

            In addition to replacing the ignition....count on opening up the carburetor for a good cleaning and by all means check the lower unit oil before you run it.

            Fuel mix should be 16:1 initially using the TC-W3 outboard type oil.

            Seakaye


            Originally posted by RCO View Post
            Yes, those are the right coils. You might as well do the points and condensers while you're in there- OMC part # 172522. The plug wires will pull out of the original coils. The old ones had a pin that went into the wires, the new style have a screw that goes into the wire. Cut off 1/4" or so to get a good clean connection.
            Originally posted by F_R View Post
            May I suggest you use this one instead of the Sierra? I just like CDI parts better. http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...****=135404332
            Thanks everyone for the great information! I think I will pick up the coils you recommended instead. So what you are saying is that I just take off a bit of the pre-existing spark plug wire cover and screw that into the new coil, right?

            As for the oil change, what oil would I want to use for this?

            Lastly, it looks like for parts and shipping I am looking at a little over $60 for this fix, is that worth it? Honestly I think I will be selling the motor after I get it fixed as I already have a 7HP motor on my boat and don't have too much of a use for this one (unless it runs better than my current!) Looking around in Craigslist it looks like people sell various motors from this age and older, not running, for over $150 or more. Beginning to wonder what this little beauty might fetch if it's running tip top!

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            • #7
              Last one I sold went for $75. That was with new coils and water pump impeller. If you don't plan to use it, sell it for $30 and let the next guy fix it.

              I disagree on one point. That motor is a Gale model 5D10 (not 5S10). It has a neutral clutch and the lower unit takes regular 80-90 weight Outboard Gear Oil.

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              • #8
                I have one. They run like a top. It`s the motor I take along when testing one I`m not sure will make it back.

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                • #9
                  I'd replace the spark plug wires and boots. The old ones are probably cracked and likely to arc through.

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                  • #10
                    SHE RUNS! I replaced the electrical as mentioned, new gas and cleaned the carb out twice.

                    My only issue now is that it is running really rich. Does anyone know the proper adjustment for these? I see there is a screw that I can turn that is labeled Rich one way and Lean the other. Lean being closed of course. I have that screw almost completely shut, all the way to lean.

                    At this point I can run at start, a hair below that and up to full throttle. If I go too much further below the start point, it will choke and die. Also, the entire time it's running it's smoking quite a bit, a bluish white smoke, not dark.

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                    • #11
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                      The big knob on the front is the high speed adjustment. It will probably run best somewhere around 3/8 turn open. Nevertheless, simply turn it to the right till it starts to falter (at full throttle), then back to the left till it regains power.

                      That other screw you are talking about is the idle mixture adjustment. It works in a very unconventional manner---by holding the throttle valve open a bit. Screwing it in holds it open more, screwing it out allows it to close more. In any case, it is only effective a slow throttle settings, when it is holding it open. So adjust it at idle speed and don't mess with it in an attempt to adjust the high speed

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