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  • #31
    my suggestion is drain the fluids, pull the motor and drive now, and work on them over the winter. this allows you to see what is wrong with your current motor, assess what you need, and to do all the maintenance to your drive in the comfort of your garage or basement.

    fuel system, I would simply drain and burn in the truck/car
    Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

    1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

    Past Boats
    1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
    2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
    1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

    What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
      my suggestion is drain the fluids, pull the motor and drive now, and work on them over the winter. this allows you to see what is wrong with your current motor, assess what you need, and to do all the maintenance to your drive in the comfort of your garage or basement.

      fuel system, I would simply drain and burn in the truck/car
      thing is i dont have the tools to pull engine. its going to have to get pulled and replaced by a shop when a new one is shipped in or diagnosed and fixed unfortunately. i have drive off in garage which just needs new fluid before winter.

      is there an easy way to drain the fuel out tank and past the anti syphon valve as needed. thing is boat had about 60 gallons in it before the incident and i dont have anywhere to put that much fuel.

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      • #33
        for $30 you can build a gantry to pull the motor.

        a shop will charge you about $3k
        Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

        1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

        Past Boats
        1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
        2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
        1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

        What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
          No, I would buy a brand new virgin block and build a 377. a 383 is a 0.030" overbore in addition to the 3.75" stroke crank

          read this (in its entirety) https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...-a-383-stroker

          there are GMPP links, etc.

          a new 377 is $4200, a reman stroker from someone not price-gouging would be about $3k talk to your local machine shop

          I built my 468 for less than $3k
          hey so im still looking at rebuilding my 5.7 350. quick question. it seems like if i got a remaned 5.7 block that going from the 87' pre vortec which i have to a 97' and up Vortec i get a decent amount of extra power and the two blocks costs the exact same when a reman is ordered from center state. the 377 might be a little to much money. Do i need to upgrade anything else besides the intake manifold to convert all my old parts from the 87 pre vortec to the 97 vortec? as seen in link i believe the vortec engine does accept a mechanical fuel pump as well.

          this is the linked 5.7 vortec block im looking to convert to.
          Remanufactured 5 7L Vortec Marine Base Engine replaces years 1997-present This is a completely remanufactured 5 7L/350 c i Vortec marine base engine This engine will replace those 5 7L marine engines used in Mercruiser Volvo Penta Crusader Indmar Marine Power and other applications between the

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          • #35
            The 96 and up is a roller cam, you would also need an electric fuel pump

            The power comes primarily from the vortec heads
            Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

            1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

            Past Boats
            1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
            2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
            1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

            What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

            Comment


            • #36
              I think also the flywheel is a different diameter necessitating a different coupler between engine and drive. Use harmonic balancer from newer block.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by Scott06 View Post
                I think also the flywheel is a different diameter necessitating a different coupler between engine and drive. Use harmonic balancer from newer block.
                can i reuse the coupler from my current 87 350? all these extra parts might not be worth even switching to a later model engine

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by cowlotter View Post

                  can i reuse the coupler from my current 87 350? all these extra parts might not be worth even switching to a later model engine
                  I would call Michigan motorz and ask they can give you more definitive answers than I. When I did my repower I found both Loren Haus and Roger Abjean there to be very helpful on mix and match combos like this. I took out a 4.3 and bought a 5.0 silver package from them that they tweaked the components to take advantage of what components/accessories I could use off my 4.3.
                  Last edited by Scott06; January 8th, 2020, 08:47 PM.

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                  • #39
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                    I did a little research and looks like the flywheel is the same 1986 and up so should work. Only thing to versify since your original motor is close to change over year is if in fact your engine is an 87, my 1991 boat had a 1990 engine with (by serial number ) one of the last Alpha one gen one drives, so you can’t always go by boat year alone

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