OMC 2.3 Cobra won't start

Lou C

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Ok looks like you got a Holley 2bbl. Which is good because there is more aftermarket support for that than for anything else. Go on to www.holley.com look in support. If fuel floods it after it stalls it has a leaky needle or the float absorbed gas and got too heavy. Take a pic of your ESA switch, they met be held open or bad.
 

lisieux14

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Aug 13, 2019
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The ESA roller is sitting in the middle trough of the arm. The bar holding it on isn't coming anywhere near the little button on the switch module. is that right?
 

Lou C

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This is from a 3.0 4 cyl which is a little different than your 2.3 but should be similar. That actuating lever should be centered in the V notch.

OK have you looked at the distributor, these engines came with points and condenser ignition systems that need regular maintenance. What you describe can be nothing more than the condenser failing. If you know how to replace points & condenser it is an easy tune up job. Point gap is .018" (0.46mm) Point Dwell is 34*-38* Timing is 10* BTDC. Make sure the choke opens a bit right after starting and opens fully in about 3-5 min run time. There is a vacuum pull off that opens it a fraction and then the electric heater element opens it fully. If that fails it will never open and you will have sooty plugs and bad running.
 

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lisieux14

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My esa looks just like that and is sitting there with throttle in neutral.points and condenser i have no clue on in afraid.is there a how section for it.thanks very much for the help though.really appreciate it
 

Lou C

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Something (sticky transom shift cable) is holding your ESA engaged. It should be RIGHT in the middle. As a test you can temporarily disconnect the shift cable at the point where its held in with the cotter pin on each end that should allow the load lever (grey part with the V notch) to relax so the trigger arm for the ESA rests in the middle.

If you read the "adults only" section you will find the part that explains how points and condenser ignition works. Its not hard but setting the point gap can be a fiddly pain. I learned back in the early '70s on a 1965 VW Beetle 1200 cc 40 hp. Then graduated to a Delco window distributor on our '72 Chevrolet 350. Also did a '70 Ford with an Autolite distributor. So the boat distributor is easy for me. Have you tested for spark yet? Get a spare spark plug. Make up a ground wire with a pair of alligator clips. Clip one end on the threads of the plug and the other on clean engine ground. Disconnect one of the plug wires on the engine and plug it into your spare plug and look at the gap between the side and center electrodes when someone cranks the engine. Should see a nice bright bluish-white spark. If you see this then the distributor is not likely your problem. Back to the Holley carb. Have you looked at www.holley.com? Time to get educated in '70s auto tech. Its really quite simple. Got any older dudes around your neighborhood who are good with a wrench? What you got is ultra simple...points distributor....Holley carb....like any Ford...of 60 years ago lol.

Always check for and verify proper spark first...then if that's ok...move on to the fuel system.

Are you in the UK? If so find an old car club, with a few Ford Cortina or Ford Capri guys....they will know....

time to start reading:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...roubleshoot-a-points-ignition-system?t=335407


some Cobra drive information here good for you to know...

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...nes-outdrives/342742-omc-information?t=334348
 
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lisieux14

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Aug 13, 2019
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Right a friend called and we dismantled the fuel cell of the carb and put all back together.the problem is the elec choke system.its not keeping closed when starting and just flapping around.he held it closed and fired and ran grand.can they be rebuilt ?
 

lisieux14

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Or is there a spring meant to be on the flap itself to keep it closed cos theres no spring anywhere on the arm
 

TwoBallScrewBall

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Sep 14, 2003
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1,695
your carb should not be dripping any fuel. If it is, your needle/float is either not adjusted properly, or is leaking. The needle should be able to stop all fuel pressure from the pump, and there should only be fuel draw when the engine is running (vacuum is present). You might have multiple issues on that carb. Rebuild kits are cheap :)
 

Lou C

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The spring is inside the cap.

https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55741.cfm

These engines came with the Rochester 2bbl up to '90 then they switched to the 2bbl Holley. Not sure why your '88 has the Holley..who knows....Anyway....even though most of these parts are NLA....you can get them from Holley....you need to go and look at their site..
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/

start looking around....you have a Marine Holley 2300 from what it looks like...

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...dary_components/choke_components/parts/45-258

you probably need a rebuild kit too because either the needle or float or both seem to be causing your issue. you will need to get the # off the carb (usually its stamped on the choke flap) to get the right one.
 

lisieux14

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I see the spring inside the cap to move the red lever but the red lever just sits on top of the choke flap lever and the flap lever isnt returning up.its like there should a spring to bring it back to closed
 

Lou C

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When adjusting, you leave the 3 screws loose and turn the cap so it just nearly closes. Then tighten screws. Make sure the electric choke gets a constant 12V when the engine is running, it should be open in 3-5 min of run time. Spring tension closes it the electric heater unwinds the spring to open it. Simple.
 

lisieux14

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That worked and now the temperature is shooting straight up to 240 after a minute of running and ive a cream sludge around the oil cap.fml
 

Lou C

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does not sound good. any water in the cyls and water in the oil? Could be a blown HG, or cracked block or head. Make sure the impeller is supplying enough water first.
 

lisieux14

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the creamy crap is only around the cap and top of the engine. sump oil seems fine on the dipstick anyway. i ran it with the cooling fins in a huge trough of water and getting a strong spray out the water vent so it is getting enough water in.
 

Lou C

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Trough does not cut it. The Cobra water impeller is in the upper gear housing. It will not prime in a trough, either you use proper muffs or put the boat in the water. Doing otherwise will burn up impellers and overheat the engine. I like the Merc/Quicksilver muffs with the metal clamp that goes thru the water intake holes. Fits better than the cheap made in China/Taiwan rectangular junk and my engine runs at a cool 150* on the water hose.....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysj65t93un..._2520.MOV?dl=0

see that steady stream of water exiting by the anode on the front of the lower gear housing? That's what you should see. In a trough the water would have to be sucked up to the impeller which is 18" above the water intake holes. Impellers cannot suck air only water. So you either use the water pressure of the muffs or put the boat in the water and submerge it till top of the upper gear housing is under water. Troughs only work with small outboards where you can submerge the whole lower unit.
 

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