Fuel line options on the engine

98mystique2

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Jul 20, 2019
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6
OMC 4.3 432APWXS in a 1987 Fourwinns horizion 170 2 barrel rochester carb

Long story short, someone last year was drunk trying to pull the carb off the engine to rebuild it over winter (it was me). They began removing the big fitting directly on the carb without removing the smaller one that goes into the big fitting and over tightened that in the process to the point it no longer points in the correct orientation without leaking. I can't seem to find the identical parts and what was there is leaking. How do i go about finding replacements OR can I buy an AN fitting inlet to the carb and use a right angle to SS braided line to the fuel pump?

How do I know if a fitting is NPT or other? Are the flares 37 degrees or 45?

Now listing all the fittings in order that I have starting from the carb which is a rochester 2bbl.
Male .8615" od thread 20TPI to female 27TPI
male .396" od thread 27 TPI right angle to female .4465" id 20TPI flare fitting (when tightened normally before messing it up it was at about 7-8 o'clock)
1/2" 20TPI fitting over .3215 OD/.251ID SS flare line
1/2" 20TPI fitting over .3215 OD/.251ID SS flare line
Fuel Pump

Long story:
Had issues last year where when the gas tank indicated half full the boat would sputter and not want to run at full throttle. First checked that I actually had gas (I did) Changed the fuel filter and it worked better for maybe a bit longer until it did the exact same thing. Also noticed the fuel filter bracket was cracked so I pulled that off and welded it back together. we'll come back to that later. Did a bunch of troubleshooting with no results. Pickup tube was good, replaced the fuel lines encase they were soft and collapsing, checked the drainback ball valve thing, all looked good. decided to clean the carb over winter and messed up the fitting as I said above where i mangled the fittings. Guess what, get to half a tank an still doesn't work. Think ok well only thing left is the fuel pump maybe it's not flowing enough once it has to lift the gas higher. In the process of pulling lines to get a part number off the fuel pump i notice some odd coloration just above one of the flares. Sure as heck the SS line from the filter to the pump is cracked. vibration and hanging from the previous owner must have cracked it. It never leaked (always under suction) and was behind the fitting so it was never noticed but you'd get enough suction and it'd be letting air in. Anyway I got a steel line and bender and that kinked like a cheap hose. So I got some nickle copper line and hand bent it but the flare tool was kinda junk so the double flare leaked a bit and I have to re do that, I may try to flare another piece or just grab some more ss braid line. But yeah with the upper carb fitting leaking I pulled the hardline from the carb to the pump and noticed some corrosion on the SS line near the carb so I kind of want to replace that and it might have gotten banged up from my previous errors.

Where does one go to get new fittings, will the clocking be the same if i buy something similar or do i run the risk of being in the same situation even if I do find a 27tpi to 20tpi flare fitting 90?
Any issue with going with a SS braided AN and using something like this https://quadrajetparts.com/adapter-i...ing-p-368.html
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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47,547
stop.

your metal fuel line is 3/8 brake line found at any automotive store. buy another metal line and form it, or grab your tube flaring tools and make one.

only USCG approve fuel lines are metal and USCG A1 line. stainless lines are not approved.

your over-thinking it
 

98mystique2

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Joined
Jul 20, 2019
Messages
6
stop.

your metal fuel line is 3/8 brake line found at any automotive store. buy another metal line and form it, or grab your tube flaring tools and make one.

only USCG approve fuel lines are metal and USCG A1 line. stainless lines are not approved.

your over-thinking it

Sorry but that's not true. The only line that was 3/8ths hard line is from the fuel filter to the fuel pump, I'm fine with reforming that using monal again if I can find a not ****ed up flare tool. Whatever is after that from the pump to the carb is thinner looks like 1/4" Id with a bunch of intricate bends. The main issue is not with that line persay it's the fitting coming off the carb which is the leaker because it was overtightened while untightining another fitting.

I need to replace that line with flexible or find a way to redo the fitting on the carb so it doesn't leak. So again where do you find fittings and how do I get the clocking right or can I buy a new carb plug and run some AN Teflon stuff
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,547
Carb adapter fitting is 5/8" inverted SAE flare which is same as brake line. that is a standard for carburetors

no need to use monel as factory lines were steel with paint. some were plated, however most are steel

factory lines were 3/8 unless someone changed them. this is also standard

the adapter fitting on the carb should have a gasket behind it or an o-ring (year dependent) as that is also where the small fuel filter is on the rochester carbs. the line from the carb down to the fuel pump is 5/8" SAE inverted flare nut with 3/8" tubing. the line from the fuel pump to the fuel/water separator is also 5/8" SAE inverted flare nut with 3/8" tubing

the two bronze fittings in the fuel line are 1/4" NPT to 5/8" SAE inverted flare

the outlet fitting in the fuel filter head is 1/4" NPT to 5/8" SAE inverted flare

the inlet fitting is USCG approved 1/4" NPT to 3/8 type A1 hose barb.

the fuel line from the inlet of the filter to the anti-siphon valve which is also a 3/8" type A1 hose barb

some light reading on USCG fuel systems http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/...YC.1002.01.pdf
 
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