1994 Four Winns Horizon 215 5.8L EFI OMC

[Scott Danforth]

Permatex #1 is generally used for core plugs (hardening)
Permatex #3 (aviation sealer) is for bolt threads, seal edges, sealing your outdrive and other. (Non hardening) it can also be used on core plugs

 

[platinumedge]

Thank you both for the clarification.

As you may recall, my engine has two freeze plugs "blown out" - one on each side. I'm able to access the starboard-side freeze plug; and should be able to reinstall it with no issues. However, the one on the port side is surrounded by the engine mount, and seems impossible to access. I believe I could install it by alternately tapping it in, on the top and the bottom. Just wondering if this is a feasible solution? Or do I need to rent an engine hoist so I can remove the engine mount in order to gain clear access to the blown freeze plug? Or (something that just dawned on me) can I put blocks underneath the engine, in order to support it, while I remove the port engine mount? In other words, do you guys think that the bilge area of the boat can support the engine (for a few minutes), while I pull the engine mount and re-install the port-side freeze plug? Or, are there other alternative?

As always, thanks to each of you for your consideration and input. I hope we all have a prosperous 2019!!

 

[alldodge]

Or (something that just dawned on me) can I put blocks underneath the engine, in order to support it, while I remove the port engine mount? In other words, do you guys think that the bilge area of the boat can support the engine (for a few minutes), while I pull the engine mount and re-install the port-side freeze plug? Or, are there other alternative?

Yes, the hull can support the motor

 

[Lou C]

Be careful with this because wood blocks can shift and crack. Is there any way you can rent an engine hoist that is high enough to also support it from above?

 

[Scott Danforth]

either way, if you touch the mount, you need to re-align the motor

I personally would put a block of wood under the oil pan and wedge it between the pan and the hull, and use a 4x4 across the top of the gunwales with a ratchet strap to the front corner of the motor if your pulling a mount to get to the core plug.

 

[platinumedge]

I believe I read somewhere (in one of the iBoats forums) that someone with a similar boat/engine configuration was able to (barely) get an engine hoist to fit over the top of the gunwales in order to lift his engine. However, since I really don't need to lift the engine - I merely need to support it while I remove the mount - I'm thinking that using a block under the engine/oil pan, and some other support mechanism, should be sufficient.

This concept that I have to "re-align the motor" is new to me. I presume this has to do with insuring that the driveshaft, coming from the engine, must be perfectly aligned with the pinion gear in the upper gear housing, right? Considering that I will have to eventually remove the outdrive in order to service the hydraulic trim lines (discussed earlier in this thread), I presume the engine would have to be re-aligned at that time, too. If so, does anyone see any problems with blocking the engine up, (re)moving the port engine mount, re-installing the port freeze plug, and putting it all back together without re-aligning the motor in order to do a coolant system test ONLY?? In other words, if I never put the transmission in gear, but merely get the freeze plugs back in place and hook up the muffs, then run the engine up to operating temperature; would this cause problems?

 

[Lou C]

You can do as you propose to run the engine to check the cooling system but I would support the engine from below and above as Scott said. Always have a back up. You do not want that 700 lb hunk of cast iron to shift while you are tapping in a core plug. Pad the gunnels with blankets or furniture moving pads and lay a 4x4 across and use a come along to put upward support against it in addition from down below.

 

[alldodge]

I see no issue with doing the repair without realigning to check cooling.
Safety is always the key, and above and below is a plus. You can see what we cannot, but if you can jack it up securly, add blocking to ensure if something does move it does not fall, then your decision. Same as jacking a car up and placing a jack stand under incase the jack gives out

 

[platinumedge]

It's been a couple of months since I've reported anything here - mainly due to winter. Due to the length of this thread, I plan to archive it and open a new one a bit later.

Based largely upon input from all of you knowledgeable members, I have purchased an engine hoist and decided to (1st) remove the outdrive and then the engine from the boat. I think this will give me greater latitude in assessing the overall mechanical conditions of the boat AND allow me to securely install the blown freeze plugs.

I need to remove the outdrive in order to repair/replace the leaking tilt/trim lines. And it is best to do this first in order to provide the necessary clearance for removing the engine (as per the manual).

One thing that has cropped up in the past few weeks is that there is black oil seeping from the bottom of the bellhousing?? I checked the engine oil and it is still golden and clear. The engine has not been run in months and I'm wondering if anyone knows where this "black oil" may be coming from?

Hope everyone is having a fantastic 2019!

-- Jeff

 

[Jammer864]

The boat wont crank if the safety lanyard isn't installed. I know you are 12 pages into this now but don't forget to install the lanyard.

 

[bruceb58]

The boat wont crank if the safety lanyard isn't installed. I know you are 12 pages into this now but don't forget to install the lanyard.

Yes it will. The safety lanyard does not disable the starter, just the ignition.

 

[platinumedge]

Hi Jammer864, I think you may have posted to the wrong thread??

 

[platinumedge]

So, I've been able to get everything removed from the SX outdrive (thanks for the wobble socket suggestion!) and hooked it up to an engine hoist. I am trying to free the outdrive from the transom bracket, but it will not come loose?? Does anyone know any tricks? Or special tools that I could use to separate the outdrive from the transom bracket?

Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

hooked it up to an engine hoist

Have you started to lift the motor before the drive is out?

 

[Bondo]

Have you started to lift the motor before the drive is out?

Ayuh,.... I read it as he's tryin' to pull the drive from the gimbel housin',.....

'n it's stuck,......

Never did a Cobra, myself,....

 

[platinumedge]

No, I have not begun to lift the engine yet. I'm just trying to "free" the outdrive from the gimbal housing, as Bondo stated.

 

[alldodge]

I haven't done a Cobra either, but may be able to remove like a Merc.

The trim pump needs to be working, and after all nuts are removed, lift drive and place some wood between drive and transom assembly. Trim the drive back down and let hydraulics do the work.

Maybe kenny nunez or Scott Danforth may have better ideas

 

[Scott Danforth]

my guess the bearing is rusted to the shaft. it will take lots of force to pull out the shaft and bearing.

 

[platinumedge]

AllDodge - Thanks for that idea. I like using our existing equipment to do our work for us! I will give your suggestion a whirl next weekend and let you know what happens.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Considerin' the trim pump has twice the power goin' the other direction, I do exactly the opposite as AD,.....

Run the drive down, 'n wedge a block of wood against the top of the drive, 'n use the hyd.s to push the drive off,....