1985 OMC Stringer voltage to tilt motor

Joined
Oct 8, 2016
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I need help verifying if I have correct voltage to tilt motor. New motor testing installed but quad gear removed(not under load). When activating tilt switch for 5-7 seconds the motor speed reduces and voltage drops. Clutch pack, hammer blow, worm gear all clean with new oil. All connections cleaned, sanded and elec grease applied.
Testing with fully charged battery with key off, on, then with tilt switch activated for 5-6 seconds.

Batt 13.06V, 12.35V, 11.14V
Start Sol 13.06V, 12.36V, 10.76V
Start Asst Sol 13.06V, 12.22V, 10.85V
Tilt Sol Input 13.06V, 12.22V, 10.45V
Tilt Sol Out (switch activated) 11.06 to 10.4 drop.
Tilt Sol input from dash switch 9.47 to 9.2.

It seems to me that as the voltage drops the tilt motor slows down.
Is this much voltage drop normal?

Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

Bondo

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Batt 13.06V, 12.35V, 11.14V

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Sounds like a Dead battery to me,.....

Motor not runnin', Right,..??
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2016
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Battery 1 year old and tested good at Walmart. Motor runs good for bout 1.5 -2 seconds and falls off pretty fast. Voltage seems to drop fast as well.
I may try running 12v straight to motor and see how it performs.
i wonder what the expected voltage drop should be from batt to starter sol to assist sol to tilt sol to motor.
 

Bondo

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Tilt Sol Input 13.06V,

Ayuh,.... Yer good to there,.....

I'd remove, sand to shiny metal clean, all the connections, downstream to the motor,.....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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clean the tilt motor armature. if you have any moisture in the tilt motor area, the armature corrodes up. pull the motor apart and clean with 600 grit wet-dry, then use electric contact cleaner to clean.
 
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Oct 8, 2016
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The tilt motor is an ARCO brand new.
The battery voltage drops to 11.14 volts when trim switch is activated. Each step downstream nets 10.4 at tilt solenoid to motor. I don’t think the tilt motor will work/survive at 10.4.
Could this be a ground problem or a solenoid that is partially working yet putting a current draw on the system?
 

kenny nunez

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Jun 20, 2017
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When you installed the tilt motor did you check to see if the nylon washer was in position behind the hammer blow coupling. There is supposed to be a washer on both sides of the coupling. Arco motors are good I have used them in the past. If your engine turns over good that will rule out the battery. I have experienced problems with the large fuses and the holders for them. Remove the motor and see how it runs. With the quadrant gear removed is it easy to lift the drive ? AS said before make sure that the grounds are good.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 8, 2016
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I replaced the plastic bushing behind the coupling and washer between the motor shaft and coupling. The quadrant gear is removed so the motor is not lifting the outdrive. I originally thought the system was in a bind until I measured the voltage from battery to motor while tilt switch activated.
Voltage drops and motor slows down.
If there was a mechanical problem would it cause a drop in voltage?
 

kenny nunez

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It almost sounds that the bind is in the coupling area. How does the motor run if you remove it with the wires still connected and try it ? Maybe when the motor is bolted on, it may be “bottoming out” and binding the coupling. Did you install the gasket that seals the motor to the housing ? When you have the motor and the coupling removed try turning the shaft with a screwdriver to be sure there is no bind in the clutch housing. If there is a mechanical bind this is where it will be.
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2016
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Removed the motor and cycled tilt switch.
11.8V showing at tilt solenoid output and motor runs fine.
However, I have discovered a worn spot where the hammer blow coupling spins. I suspect the coupling is binding as it spins.
The coupling edges are a little worn but the unit loads/unloads fine. Repairing the spot in the housing seems difficult.
I've included photos lookin for possible solutions.
i still don’t understand how the tilt solenoid shows 10.4V with motor installed and 11.8V with motor out either.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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kenny nunez

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All that should be there on either side of the hammer blow coupling is a small plastic washer. It looks like you have the wrong washers . A very thin plastic washer goes in front of the worm gear in the clutch housing and nothing behind the worm except the retainer plug.
 

kenny nunez

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I went digging in my stash of some old parts and found 1 washer. It measures 9/16” O.D. X 1/16” thick and of course the shaft size. You could substitute a metal washer as long as it matches what I have described.
 
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Oct 8, 2016
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I verified the retainer bushing is the correct one. OMC 0909513 and is identical to the old one removed. After careful inspection i noticed one of the ears on the hammerblow coupling is slightly bent. I think this bend is catching on the inside of the housing. I will replac with new coupling. Any ideas on how to repair hole in intermediate housing?
 

kenny nunez

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JB weld is about the only thing I can think of considering the small area to work in. If there is no water leak don’t worry about it.
One other thing about OMC tilt systems, NEVER hold the tilt switch down until the drive hits, just tap the switch a few times to let it come down slowly. That is why your coupling is out of shape and sometimes either shears the pins on the shaft or wrings off the end of the tilt motor.
 
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