OMC Tru-Course Sticking.

[FishinFool88]

Hoping someone can help me out here, I know it's an old thread but maybe it will pop up on someone's radar.

I have a similar problem, but I can turn the motor half way before it binds up. I'm thinking I need to remove the drive and grease. I know I may come off as and idiot but what exactly is the drive? Are you talking about what's on the end of the cable? How do I go about removing this from the sterndrive end of the line?

Thanks, appreciate anyone that can help!!

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard with a thread of your own. What OMC drive?

The drive is what has the propeller on the end. :smile:

 

[southkogs]

Tru-course was the steering system on the Stringer drives. What year boat do you have?

If it's a Stringer, the first thing I'd do is grease the swivel bearing. If that didn't work then I'd actually pull the drive and try to localize the problem (cable or upper gear case).

 

[Scott Danforth]

two things cause the tru-course to stick.

bad cable from the helm (thinggy the steering wheel is attached to) to the intermediate housing (Industrial looking casting mounted to back of motor sticking thru the big boot.)

pulling the drive (the thingy with the propeller on it consisting of the upper drive housing (says OMC on it) and lower drive housing (Actually has the propeller on it), hanging off the two saddle bearings on the intermediate housing) is easy, just take care removing the shift cable if yours is a mechanical shift unit. those cables are extremely expensive.

as many had said, what year do you got?

 

[FishinFool88]

Thanks guys, I didn't think i'd have to pull that drive I figured it was part of the Tru-Course system and I just didn't know the name. Now I do, was thinking it was the intermediate housing.

I have a 78 Fiberform Sportsman 21' with a GM350 and Stinger 800 outdrive. I've greased the zerk under the drive with the drive fully up to no avail, i've heard there's another zerk but can't locate it. Do I have to remove the drive to access it?

Id prefer not to remove the entire drive if possible but if that's the fix I need then that's what I'll do.

 

[southkogs]

That drive is pretty easy to remove - you have to watch the shift cable. I don't know how fast you can do it with the mechanical shift Stringers, but on my electric shift I could yank it in less than about 15 minutes by myself. It went on just about as fast.

The point you want to lubricate for the swivel bearing is behind the plastic "nut" on the front of the upper gear case. When you remove that nut (they were typically red), there's a zerk back in there.

If you look inside from the starboard side you should see where the steering cable comes to the intermediate. It meets a gear shaft that passes through the intermediate. That shaft turns another gear set at the top of the upper gear case to steer. The reason to remove the drive is to free that cable and shaft up. If you can turn the helm easier, then you localize to dealing with the drive.

If you remove the drive, and the helm is still hard to turn then it's likely that you've got a bad cable.

Theoretically you could pull the same thing off by reaching in from inside the boat and disassembling the steering cable. But, I'd personally rather remove the drive.

 

[FishinFool88]

Thank you southkogs, I'll give it a go and see if that does the trick.

 

[kenny nunez]

If you look closely where the cable is mounted to the shaft on the intermediate housing there is a plastic cover over the cable drum, there is a slot in the clear plastic cover that gives access to a slotted screw on the cable drum, you have to have someone turn the steering wheel so that the screw comes into view. Remove the screw and see if the steering wheel turns easy. If it does then as said previously the drive has to come off and the shaft pulled out and the corrosion that is built up has to be cleaned out. If you can remove the 3 bolts that mount the quadrant gear on the port side, the drive can be removed in the down position, then the side covers and hope that the little 1/4” 20 bolts do not break off you may be in luck. Remove the large slotted screw from the top of the drive and install a 1/2” 13 threaded hook in the hole or a bolt with some chain so that you can hang the drive once the saddle caps are removed, with a little luck there should be enough slack in the shift cable so that the drive can be moved to the side, the steering shaft can be pulled out. It will probably be hard because of the corrosion. If the cable is the problem then this is the only way it can be changed anyway. By hanging the drive helps and saves the fingers.
To reset the steering after the locking screw is back in the cable drum rotate the steering wheel both ways and count the turns, then split the rotation.
On the drive be sure the drive is centered in relation to the trunion ears to the exhaust housing so that you will have a full 90* of rotation.
I know this sounds hard because it is. I was an OMC dealer for 30 + years. You will need new “O” rings and cork seals that are under the side covers. Good luck

 

[FishinFool88]

Thank's Kenny, I really appreciate the added details!! We're working through some snow up here in the NW so once I have a nice weekend and a partner to help I'll give it a shot. Do you happen to know the P/N's for the O-rings and cork seals under the side covers? I like the hanging the drive idea as most of the time I work on it solo. In any case do you have any insight to removing the shift cable before I take the drive off if hanging the drive doesn't work out for me? I'm not in a garage, did you have something above to hang the drive from or connect it to the boat somehow?

 

[kenny nunez]

I have been retired for over 10 years. When I had my shop I used a hydraulic shop hoist. You may be able to rent one, Remove the shift cable retainer clip outside of the intermediate housing and try to pull the shift cable out as far as it will go. To get more slack unbolt the shift converter box and that will give you plenty of space, that way you do not have to remove the cable from the box. Hopefully the cable is not corroded in the intermediate housing. Use liquid soap to help the cable pull through the housing.
If you have a tree or the a rafter use a ratchet strap, or a 2X4 secured in the boat going over the transom to support the drive if you cannot rent a hoist.
The “O” rings are generic and they may still be usable as well as the cork seals. Just be real careful not to break the 1/4” 20 bolts. Removing the 3 bolts that hold the gear on the port side be sure to use a 6 point wrench as those bolts are usually hard to loosen and remove. A acetelyne torch comes in handy for that. There is a white plastic split bushing that supports the forward end of the steering shaft that usually falls in the bilge. I can still remember those fun days ! Hope this helps.

 

[FishinFool88]

Thank's Kenny, it's those little details that make all of the difference. I've learned the hard way plenty of times, foresight is usually better than hindsight! I really appreciate the help.

 

[kenny nunez]

I cannot stress enough on not damaging the shift cable. I know it is replaceable but a PITA to just remove it from the lower gearcase and re setting it . If you cannot remove the 3 bolts on the port side the only other option is to first remove the shift converter box and raise the drive about 1/2 way then the rest of the mounting hardware, If you do not have a way of hanging the drive the cable will pull out enough to lay the drive to the side. Some time my 72 year old brain remembers other short cuts. If you can send me a private message with your phone # I will call you. Or email ksnunez@cox.net

 

[Scott Danforth]

The cable will cost more than the whole boat is worth to replace, so be careful with the shift cable