Chugger boat finally starting construction

[Scott Danforth]

BTW, since its a flat bottomed boat - 25hp

based on the factor number (length x width) being over 53, and you have a flat bottom you would use the formula (.5*factor)-15 or 25.4hp

 

[matt167]

Cool. So my 20hp is perfect. And I know displacement speed should be 6.2 mph. So it will be a relaxing boat

 

[matt167]

I'm currently building the frames in the sides using ripped 2" douglas fir. I'm screwing with stainless #8 screws and gluing with PL Premium.. How many screws should I add? Some of these screws are below the water line. I'm gluing and clamping adaquate pressure to get a slight ooze uniform across both sides. I'm adding a minimal amount of mechanical fasteners right now

 

[sphelps]

Aren’t you working off a set of drawings ? The screw pattern should be on the drawings I would think .
But if your not sure , more is always better ....

 

[matt167]

Mr Lewis basically designed the Chugger as a basic idea, and his test boat was not even built to the plans he wrote, as he modified the design to be able to be stored in pieces. I don't think any chugger built has been built exactly to plans.

I have a couple drawings, and the full text plans. " Glue and screw " is what is in the plans. but the BOM shows 300 screws overall. So I guess I'll assemble it and add screws as needed to equal 300 once it's all together

 

[GA_Boater]

Isn't your version longer, wider and deeper? You're gonna need more screws!

 

[matt167]

4' longer, and 16" wider. Depth/ height remains the same. So yeah, I'll need to figure out some fastener schedule, but at least 300.

The width does not change much, so its about 30% longer than designed plan, so 390 screws for 30% more. plus the screws I will use when I add a stringer system and transom knees. I decided to use the 20hp and not attempt planing speeds, unless 20hp will actually do it

I think about 600 might be about right, in total not counting finishing fasteners

 

[kcassells]

Hows about some more pics.

 

[matt167]

I'm going to the shop later today to knock out the sides completely. It hasn't evolved more than the last/ first pic aside from one side having it's framing mostly complete. And I have the rear open deck section cut out but no pics of that.

after tonight, I'll have pics and it will all start to make sense

 

[matt167]

Here is the first side fully framed. Did not have time for the other side. The butt joint is right behind the cabin. I did about every 4" on the bottom for screws. That seemed to give the glue a uniform squeeze.

The front bow section, Mr Lewis steam bent. I decided to cut the shape out of 2x12" doug fir. I left it full dimension as the original dash from my grandfathers boat can use the structure for mounting there

The framing members are 2x2" ripped out of 2x12's, all douglas fir

 

[kcassells]

Very nice! So are the plans nice to work from?

 

[matt167]

Yup. There just text with basic drawings. But it's so simple its easy. And hard to screw up

 

[matt167]

What are the thoughts on polyester resin for a wood boat? I would like to encapsulate the whole boat. 1708 on the bottom to waterline and csm for everything else. The topsides is just more for sealing... But if I go epoxy I can just glass the waterline with a biaxial cloth and forgo the glass on the topsides and just paint epoxy. I also have vinylester as an option. The boat is getting painted with Rust-Oleum and will be a trailer boat

 

[kcassells]

Dang man what do the plans call for? Total your call. Either will work. I just remember hearing glass on wood boats can be a nightmare. Especially if it's not marine grade or similar.
Look into dimensional 2x4's vs. structural woods, plys. Dimensional does not like poly ot poxy cause the wood is really never totally kiln dried and gases off when glassed. Hence large bubbles form.

 

[matt167]

The plans are vague in this respect. He basically says you can tape the chines, or fiberglass the whole bottom giving no specific material.

I know in wooden boat forums, they are epoxy snobs. But this is not a mahogany barrel back racer.

you think the 1.5"x2" douglas fir rips will cause an issue with fiberglass? I buy 2"x12" 16' lengths of Douglas fir for a shade over $30 from Home depot, and rip them into 2", I could avoid fiber glassing the interior and thus the 2x2" framing. But the rear deck where it might get wet, I would fiberglass

 

[zool]

Hey Matt, I would use epoxy and cloth, mainly because poly is brittle when cured and any movement in the wood could cause cracking, epoxy is somewhat elastic, which is why most wood boats coat with it, plus you get better strength with thinner layers.....but also because im an epoxy snob

 

[kcassells]

Hey Matt, I would use epoxy and cloth, mainly because poly is brittle when cured and any movement in the wood could cause cracking, epoxy is somewhat elastic, which is why most wood boats coat with it, plus you get better strength with thinner layers.....but also because im an epoxy snob

Larry,
Did you have any issues glassing over plank woods with glassing/gasing off?
Matt I would suggest to follow Larry recommends. He's way more wood oriented than me.

 

[zool]

Larry,
Did you have any issues glassing over plank woods with glassing/gasing off?
Matt I would suggest to follow Larry recommends. He's way more wood oriented than me.

No Kev, all the vertical supports on my 28 were dimensional lumber, and they are still fine. Epoxy is a strong glue, much stronger than any residual gas that may still bleed out.

The member here a while back rebuilding the Bayliner Victoria used all 2x lumber for his stringers and all was well.

 

[kcassells]

Thanks Larry.

 

[froggy1150]

I have no idea if this would work but what about cpes coating the wood. I was watching a video on the total boat website about their penetrating epoxy . It might be a way to seal the wood without alot of weight....