Anything else I need to do?

Redfred1

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 23, 2013
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629
Pulled the boat out to get ready for the season (If this @$%#@ weather ever straightens out); need to crank up the engine.
My plans are: pull the plugs; a squirt of oil in each hole; then hand turn flywheel ease stress on rings; change out G2 filter in gas line; empty the glass filter; drop lower unit in tank to get impeller wet. Battery is hot; impeller and LU oil changed out last year along with plugs. Have year old gas I'm going to try. Saw a post about "Salt Away"; gonna ask about that. Have thoughts about putting a couple of gallons on vinegar for a motor flush. 45 gallon flush tank. Am I Missing something? Rude 100
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,297
I would skip the oil, skip the flush

fix your battery cable/connection issue

use a set of muffs and not a tank or you will be replacing the impeller (you cant get the water high enough with a tank unless you drop the whole boat in there)
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
If stopping engine for long time periods, from time to time give a short start with key for engine to crank a bit and impeller vanes doesn't rest at same fixed position whether compressed or not compressed inside liner, impeller wanes will remain more flexible and last longer.

Happy Boating
 

Redfred1

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 23, 2013
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629
When I said battery was hot; I meant "charged"; But will clean clamps I was just curious about the flush. can use "Muffs" I modified the tank;; so the LU goes below the cavitation plate. The thought with the flush was a extra..
 

JimS123

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Jul 27, 2007
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7,952
If you squirted oil in the fall (fogging, i.e., a normal part of Winterizing) you don't need to do it again.

Your "flush" isn't necessary now if you flushed out the salt when Winterizing (assuming salt water, which isn't necessary either time if used in fresh water).

A "tank" is fine as long as the water lever is above the normal boat water level. But be sure to run only a minute or 2 because the water will get very hot. Muffs are a better alternative, as long as the engine will accept them.

Old gas is fine as long as it was stabilized when new.

All the other items are things I do in the Fall, but certainly necessary before recommissioning.

When you're finished, drain the water again and store the battery. Its going to be long time till Spring.
 

Redfred1

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 23, 2013
Messages
629
After every trip the boat gets washed down. The engine ('79) came from a storage unit; I paid dearly for the swap out but it has ran flawless.;I don't skimp on maintenance. The only thing missing is its blanket. Thanks for the help.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,036
Skip the oil squirt, as it is unnecessary if the motor was fogged. Skip the vinegar, as it is unnecessary. Fresh water flush at layup will flush out all the salt, that will flush.

Use a fresh 50::1 gas-oil mix. It will tell you if the motor is running properly. You can use the old gas, mixed with new, when you fill tanks before launch.

A flusher device is fine. No need to use a tank to run her. Bumping the starter to turn the impeller doesn't hurt, but is unnecessary. Impellers wear cannot be decreased by that method, IMHO.
 
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