5.0 MPI Conversion (Final Steps)

mhenry3164

Recruit
Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Messages
2
So, long story short the engine gremlins have came to visit my boats along with all the other 2020 problems. After several issues with my 2001 Mercruiser 4.3 TBI (Alpha one) this spring, its final straw was a rod coming through to the side of the oil pan. This is in a Landau 251 tritoon for what its worth. I am a long time reader but first time poster.

In my search for an engine, I stumbled across a mutual friend that had a pontoon that had flipped off the trailer and totaled the boat. It had a 2002 5.0 MPI engine and outdrive so I was able to rob the entire boat. For starters, this engine was sitting out and had taken in some water. I cleaned it, removed plugs, and low and behold it was locked up. After 4 days of marvel mystery oil setting on top of pistons, the engine came free easily. I have replaced distributor (damaged in accident), wires, plugs, ran oil/atf through engine for cleaning, tested compression (within spec), put 12V to fuel pump and heard it run for a second.

I am moving engine mounts in order to accommodate difference from V6 to V8, adjusted trim unit to provide clearance, changing OD lube, replaced bad exhaust shutters, resolved various other minor issues. I am to the point of reinstalling the engine, getting fire and fuel to it, and trying to start it.

Is theee anything I am missing?? I know I have to align and all other things involved with reinstall. I just want to make sure there isn't anything obvious I am looking over or some issues I might face from the engine sitting outside for a year. Thanks in advance for any advice, and hopefully we will have a water worthy rig within the next 48 hours.
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
8,776
Being a 2002 engine model what ECM and/or design distrbutor cap is installed? A HVS flat cap like this,

s-l1000.jpg

or,
816ZcclmJrL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


As it's important to know as Merc was just in the middle of engine model design changes and ignition timing is set differently between the two.
Locate the new engine and drive serial numbers. The engine should be just above the engine starter mounted on the engine blocks side.

You may be doing some prop testing trying to find a good fit for the proper RPM range of the new engine, drive, boat combination...There should be a sticker on the flame arresters plastic cover with engine specifications that mentions the RPM range if needed.

You'll have to reset the tachometer RPM setting from V6 to V8...That setting should be on the rear side of the gauge for you.

If you are in need of some additional helpful guidance with say setting up the Alpha Drive Shift cable adjustments, Checking Engine Alignment or Installing the Alpha Drive then here are a few good videos created by iboats member achris to help out with these types of situations, https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...gines-outdrives/604924-a-couple-of-new-videos

Hope everything works out well for you, good luck.:encouragement:
 

mhenry3164

Recruit
Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Messages
2
I have the flat type distributor. Through research here, it was determined that the only 100% correct way to set timing is through a computer. I put engine at TDC before removing old distributor. Flat spot/pointer were just in front of #1 on cap at TDC. I reinstalled identical to the way the old one came out. Hopefully this will get me close enough to run.

In regard to prop selection, the boat i bought as a donor had a 19P Mirafe on it and was a similar set up to mine. Hopefully that will get me close, and I can tune from there.

Thanks for the info on the tach! I was unaware.
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,286
Don’t need to set timing really. Just align the diz mark metween the two lines and ecu sorts it out. These run a higher rpm than your 4.3 being 4600-5000 rpm. Get a new cap for sure and make sure you have the right iridium 5599 plugs in it. Not cheap but it’s what you need.
 
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