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Rust Treatments

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  • Rust Treatments

    In the spring, I need to get after some rust spots on the engines and transmissions. I read a thread where Scott Danforth no longer recommends the POR15 because the formula changed and it no longer works well. He did recommend the Rustoleum Rust Reformer which is relatively inexpensive and readily available.
    A while back I was in the NAPA paint department and they had cut sheets on a new Martin Senour product called RustProof M/D it is a moisture curing urethane. I'm sure that is much more expensive.
    I think that the success of either product depends on how meticulous you are when prepping the surface. Does anyone have experience using either product or preferably both? It's not a job I enjoy doing, so I want to use a product that is going to last. Also, If there are other products that work well, I would like to hear about them.

  • #2
    I recommend mechanical removal of rust with blasting

    I have had good luck with the moeler zinc primer

    I really like the epoxy primers from axalta (former dupont imron) that we use at work
    Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

    1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

    Past Boats
    1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
    2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
    1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

    What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari


    • #3
      Thanks for the reply. I agree blasting is best but I'm just touching up some spots that were let go. A wire wheel or brush is about the best I'll be able to do, working in the engine compartment. How has the Rustoleum Rust Resolver and enamel topcoat held up for you?

      I've used the Moeller Zinc Chromate mostly for touch ups on the aluminum outboards on my old boat.It always held up pretty good for a rattle can primer. If your doing a small project NAPA and other places sell a 2part epoxy primer in a rattle can. I've used that on ferrous and nonferrous metals. That is good stuff also, but about 3X more expensive. The brand name escapes me at the moment.

      I've been doing a painting project on the aluminum gauge and switch panels. Stripped to bare metal> sanded > Alumaprep 33 > Clear Alodine conversion coat > Pettit Alumaprotect 2 part epoxy primer > sand, 600 grit> 2 part acrylic enamel top coat. None of that stuff is good for you so if using it you need to read and adhere to all the cautions. Time will tell if that stands up better than the factory finish.


      • #4
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        Scott, that is the Moeller Zinc Phosphate Primer for iron and steel, correct? Doesn't that figure because I have two brand new cans of the zinc chromate left over from past projects.