Outdrive position question

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 11, 2016
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I've read in numerous places, advising that the leg/outdrive should be left in the down position when moored/ on the hard etc. to avoid stressing or straining the bellows, leading to possible splits. My issue is that when I finally get onto my mooring (Big splash approaching) it will be in a tidal harbour that drains out totally between tides. The bottom is mostly mud if that's relevant.

Naturally, I can't really leave the outdrive down, as it hangs about 12" below the keel. I believe the leg might naturally move up when upward pressure is applied to it, like when you hit something in the water, but I don't care to depend on that. Plus I don't want the water inlet on the leg to get gummed up with mud. So, what are your thoughts? Moving my mooring is a "maybe" possibility, but I'm not sure I could still find enough water at low tide. It's on a Wellcraft 250 Sportsman and it would be moored on a swinging mooring.

​Any thoughts welcome.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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In your case, if the water is too skinny, bring it up
 

Lowlysubaruguy

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Dec 3, 2012
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I cant speak for the masses but I leave mine up during months it in use so I never make the mistake of driving off with it down. When I put it away in the winter I drop it to what ever position leaves it a little off the ground. Mainly in hopes that any water in it may leve easier. I have not had to replace the bellows yet and my boats a 96. Ive owned it since it was 6 months old. The boot still feels pliable. I have had to replace the shifter boot twice though. I purchased a new bellows and gasket a few years ago in case i have a failure all of a sudden, I may opt to replace it next spring along with the water pump.
Im curious to see what others take on this is.
 

sogood

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May 11, 2016
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Thanks for the input. No doubt I will have started another war of opinions, but I'm happy to hear all!
 

Old Ironmaker

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Dec 28, 2015
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If I leave mine up sure is all Hell some duffus is going to take my prop off trying to dock his boat in the slip next to mine, yep twice, stainless steel. If I leave it down it's going to get covered in Zebra Mussels. If I know I will be going out within a day or so I leave it down, when I know I have a good neighbour that knows how to steer a boat I leave it up. I think every body of water and area will have it's own issues.
 

tpenfield

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I moor my boat in skinny water as well. Low tide gets down to about 30" . . . even less on a spring tide, when the keel rests on the mud. I bring my outdrives up, but not all the way to the full tilt position, so as to avoid over stressing the bellows.
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 11, 2016
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I don't really have much option but to leave it up in the fully up trailered position in order to clear the hull. As stated, the harbour drains fully, at least at my mooring. The only other possibility, is to move the mooring further out into the harbour, where some water remains. This would mean the boat is more exposed to the elements, as in wind blowing up the bay off the Atlantic and it would be more exposed to other boats coming and going.

As the mooring is presently, it would be tucked into a quiet corner of the harbour and within easy reach using my small punt/tender. Going further out into the harbour might require a small outboard as I've rowed out into the harbour in the past with a steady breeze blowing and found it hard going!

​I was rowing away but getting nowhere fast! My technique doesn't help. I wanted to avoid any need for an outboard if possible.

Thanks for the input.
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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On my forum we have a member from the Bay of Fundy - something like 30-40 foot tide twice a day. He's been leaving his up for the season, which is admittedly short, for years. Just check the bellows often.

The only other thing I've always thought about for him is to build a trailer so to speak that is submerged and when you dock, crank it up to the boat tied off to the cleats so when it is low tide it is on a 'trailer'.

Or save money and just check bellows often.



Bay of Fundy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...ure=iv&hd=1&src_vid=u3LtEF9WPt4&v=hbzwzrZXUKA
 

JimS123

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Jul 27, 2007
Messages
7,993
Eventually all bellows crack. Then the water comes in. In the up position the cracks are pulled open further, thus letting the water in faster. If your situation requires it to be up, be sure you have an automatic float switch bilge pump and a fully charged battery.
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
On my forum we have a member from the Bay of Fundy - something like 30-40 foot tide twice a day. He's been leaving his up for the season, which is admittedly short, for years. Just check the bellows often.

The only other thing I've always thought about for him is to build a trailer so to speak that is submerged and when you dock, crank it up to the boat tied off to the cleats so when it is low tide it is on a 'trailer'.

Or save money and just check bellows often.



Bay of Fundy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...ure=iv&hd=1&src_vid=u3LtEF9WPt4&v=hbzwzrZXUKA

​That's thinking way outside the box, but I can't see it working. Apart from being a hazard to other boats at low water, it would also leave you depending on higher water to get underway. And it would probably stretch my "parking" skills to the limit! You would also have to be sure you were in the right spot when mooring, to ensure that when the tide dropped, you would land on the "trailer" in the right place, which mightn't be easy, given the movement created by the tide. But thanks for the input.

​Regarding bilge pumps etc. I do have an automatic pump fitted, along with a solar panel to help keep the battery topped up. I guess it's just one of those awkward situations. It may be overthinking things, but a crazy idea is to have something like a box, shaped like a railway sleeper, with holes in it, so it sinks. This is formed to follow the shape of the hull and would be slung beneath the boat at the stern, tied off onto the gunwale cleats. So it keeps the stern raised off the mud bed. When not in use it stays on the bottom, tied off to the mooring buoy. Yes.........overthinking things.....................
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
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Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,545
Holy smokes, you?re making this way too complicated! Just leave the drive up and check/replace the bellows regularly, like almost everyone in this situation does.
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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This is formed to follow the shape of the hull and would be slung beneath the boat at the stern, tied off onto the gunwale cleats. So it keeps the stern raised off the mud bed. When not in use it stays on the bottom, tied off to the mooring buoy. Yes.........overthinking things.....................

that is essentially what I said, except for whole boat not just stern
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,842
Before our harbor was dredged I had a shallow mooring spot also and had to keep the drive at least half way up, sometimes all the way up. But since I could keep it down during the off season storage, the bellows still lasted 11 seasons before I saw very small cracks developing. So do what you have to do, and just replace it at the first sign of small cracks. The original equipment OMC Cobra/Volvo SX bellows last a long time....
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 11, 2016
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So, the solution is, keep the drive up when moored and keep a close eye on the bellows. I can live with that. Thanks for all the responses.
 

QBhoy

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Mar 10, 2016
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From a Hydraulics Wellfare point of view. It?s never good to max out the rams. So if you need to lift and leave...trim it right up, then give it a nudge on the switch the other way slightly. Always better for the rams and gear.
I?d also advise leaving it slightly turned to starboard. This pits less stress as possible on the belows (on a Merc and some Volvos at least), just because of where they are. Full port sees them stretched to their max.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,842
Keep in mind if you are replacing an SX or Cobra bellows, they are made to be asymmetrical in that there is an extra fold on one side, which is supposed to face down. This minimizes the stretching of the rubber when it has to be left up. I think it was 6 on one side, 7 on the other or some such.
 
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