1979 Mercury 1400 2 stroke .. will start but wont stay running

[jasivy]

Engine rebuilt 2 years ago and sat. Will start but once I let key switch go from "start" to "run" position she dies. If I keep in start position she will continue to run? I did change the handle ( throttle ) and left off the neutral safety switch. White wire is live on left side of switch box when key is in "on" position but nothing on right side until I put key switch in "start" position. Maybe I need new parts for this process. I was hooking and unhooking and ran two batteries in parralel .. maybe I fried something? I did take carbs off and soak in cleaner and put back on.

1. does stator have to function for engine to run in on position?
2. does rectifier have to function for engine to run in on position?
3. does switchbox have to function for engine to run in on position?
4. possible carb issue?
5. Ideas?

Thanks !!

 

[Faztbullet]

I was hooking and unhooking and ran two batteries in parralel .. maybe I fried something?​

Replace trigger...…

 

[jasivy]

 

[jasivy]

ok Thanks .. any other trouble shooting ideas? Could I have lubbed up the housing too much and it efeected it?

 

[3boydad]

If you do trigger, I recommend ordering the smaller bearing that goes in top of trigger that distributor sits in. It’s a bear to pry it out of old trigger without damaging it. Save ya some time on that

 

[jasivy]

Thanks Gents !! I was told that if my Stator is bad then engine will die as soon as Ignition switch goes from "start" position to "on" position .. any thoughts?

 

[Chris1956]

Not on your motor. Your ignition is powered by the battery. As long as you have a charge in the battery, you will have spark if the ignition system is functioning properly.

You have a 2 wire stator, which only serves to recharge your battery.

Newer motors have an ADI system where the ignition is powered by the stator.

 

[Faztbullet]

Mercury Battery CD Ignitions without Points Four and Six Cylinder Engines 332-2986/393-3736 Type Ignitions

SERVICE NOTE: Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500 RPM, MAXIMUM allowable reading is 16 volts and minimum is 12V. Running below 12V or over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application.

Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately 7/16". When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires - there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires. Check the DC voltage present on the white and red terminals while at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter battery cables or battery. Check the DC voltage on the white/black trigger terminal at cranking, there must be at least 9V available with the trigger wire connected. Check DVA voltage between the blue and black trigger wires (They must be connected to the switch box). You should read at least 3V. A low reading indicates a bad trigger. Check DVA voltage on the green wire going to the coil, it should be over 100 volts at cranking.

Only fires when you let off of the keyswitch: This symptom usually indicates a bad trigger.

 

[3boydad]

Amazing info, thank you I have the same motor and did not know a lot of this. Thank you!