Break-in vs no break-in on new motor? Did I do okay?

[USA_boater]

50hp fourstroke, I was a little disturbed when the mechanic at Cabela's shunned the idea that you "really" had to follow any break-in procedure. He told me "just go out and run it". ALL boats they sell get lake tested first and he told me they go out and "run em' hard" before the customer picks them up. Luckily, I opted out of the lake test because I didn't trust anyone to run my new boat but me. However, he did say they ran it on the trailer with muffs so I hope they didn't rev it way up.

So I took it out to the lake for the fisrt time and had my wife and 5yr old with me and I wasn't disciplined enough nor had enough time (it was evening) to follow the break-in 100% but here is waht I did and I want to know if it will be okay considering the alternative the Cabela's uses for all their other new boat sales.

1.) Idled boat to get out of long no-wake zone so I assume it was warmed up enough
2.) Ran mostly 3500 RPM or less for about 10-15min (did hit 4k RPM a few times though)
3.) Had to stop and let the 5yr old swim, so I took the time to test out the trolling motor while I was waiting
4.) After an hour, started back up and ran 4k RPM or less (mostly 3500k or less) for another 25-30min of run time
5.) Then took it up to wide open for maybe 30sec to a minute
6.) Then ran another 45min or so at variable RPM from 1k - 5k (mostly 3k - 4500k) with about 3 wide-open 6k RPM runs that last roughly a minute or so
7.) Then ran it easy back to the dock and idled though the no-wake zone

SO far I guesstimate 1.5hrs of run time, maybe 2 if you count some idling and whatever Cabela's did on the trailer.

My questions are if what I did is okay considering what it would have gotten if Cabela's had lake tested it for me and if break-in has any room for flexibility at all?

ALSO, they used Mercury 10w30 oil...I'd have preferred to break-in on the 25w40 but I wasn't given the option; I hope that is okay.

Thanks for making me feel better LOL!

 

[dingbat]

Per your manual


For the first hour of operation, run the engine at varied throttle settings not exceeding 3500 RPM or at approximately half throttle.

2. For the second hour of operation, run the engine at varied throttle settings up to 4500 RPM or at three-quarter throttle, and during this period of time run it at full throttle for approximately one minute every ten minutes.

3. For the next eight hours of operation, avoid continuous operation at full throttle for more than five minutes at a time.

 

[jimmbo]

It is amazing the number of people who ask for ‘break in’ advice/info, never bother to look in the owners manual. Following what the manufacturer recommends rarely causes the engine to go sideways

 

[USA_boater]

I did look in the manual, my goal was to see if what I did was close enough verses what a major boat seller told me they do to all the boats they sell hence the customer break-in becomes relatively moot. I just wanted to know if the fact I did loosly follow the recommended procedure if those who know more than I do think it will be fine? Any comments on the oil? wouldn't 25w40 be a better break-in oil? I should have changed the oil and went to the lake by myself so I could do it 100% right...but considering I used the oil provided and took the family (which distracted me), does anyone think the procedure I described would be that much different than the OEM procedure I was "trying" to follow?

 

[jimmbo]

Well you are not going to be happy with any answer I provide as you are now looking for someone to tell you, not to worry, those instructions are just a rough guide that you can follow or ignore as you please and everything is peachy. The engine is probably OK... You did vary the speed, which is important. However breaking in an engine, at least the first 3 - 4 hours is best done in one continuous period. Warming up the new engine is when the greatest wear occurs, so once it is warm...
As for the mechanic who thinks the break in instructions are a waste, he is revealing he has more interest in fixing your engine when it breaks than it having a long trouble free life... He is not a person I would want servicing my engine.
Did you ask your salesman or dealer about the break in procedure? Maybe he might be interested how his staff are treating new engines, and what they are telling customers

10W-30 vs. 25W40. A new engine is tight, so getting oil into place quickly is important, a 10W-30 has an advantage there. during break in. If ambient temps are cool to cold, the 10W-30 can be used year round, but in higher temp areas the 25W-40 would be prefered. Mercury also offers a 25W-40 synthetic blend. This will offer some advantages over mineral oil, at a small price increase over mineral oil. However I won't recommend it for break in.

 

[USA_boater]

Okay, thanks..yes I have a call into the dealer and left a message for the head of service yesterday. ALso, what you say about the oil makes a lot of sense...the water temp is getting colder here and the hottest part of the summer is over so I think you are correct 10w30 is fine in this case to break in. The temp chart says up to 100*F 10w30 can be used. I plan to fish this boat year-round and hate to have to do an oil change to 25w40 if I take it out a few times in the hotter part of the year...I think the boat will get more use in milder and colder parts of the year so perhaps I can just run 10w30 year round and be careful not to take it out and/or run it hard if it is above 90* outside. The goal is one oil change and one oil weight per year...what do you think? O was "planning" to run the Quicksilver 25w40 syn-blend until I started thinking about fishing in colder weather...I know some people do run it year round.

BTW, the head mechanic was gone because it was Saturday when I picked up my new boat; the 2nd string guy (prob late 20's) was who I dealt with. But I do believe him that at least the boats HE takes out he runs hard. But I bet they all do it for the fun of it; how would the customer ever know...at least I was smart enough to tell them no thanks for my boat LOL.

 

[jimmbo]

Something to keep in mind. For years 10W - 30 was the standard multigrade oil in cars. It was used in just about all climates. It wasn’t till the late 70s that 10W - 40 and 5W - 30 became commonly used in more extreme climates. These days, 5W - 20 and 0W - 20 are the new all weather oils. Car engines run much hotter than these outboards. So the 10W - 30 is fine.

 

[USA_boater]

Okay thanks...I figured straight 30wt used to be most common before multi-viscosity oils. My Volvo Penta 4.3 on my other boat calls for 30wt but they don't even make the Volvo oil anymore so I am using 15w40 Rotella syn-blend. it would be nice to be able to use the same oil in both but the Merc has a warranty so hopefully quick silver brand will work for the warranty; I think they are owned by Mercury?

 

[jimmbo]

Volvo has been specing Full Synthetic SAE 30 or more recently Full Synthetic 10W - 40 for the past two decades. Most Auto-Truck oils, including Diesel oils do not meet the Marine FC-W cert, however it is your engine, so you can use whatever you want. I know several mouth pieces will be jumping in to say, they have been using brand A, brand X, brand BS, with bacon drippings added and have never had trouble. Whatever, their minds are made up, facts will only confuse them

Quicksilver is indeed a Mercury Brand. It is a brand that is available to vendors other than Mercury Dealers. Most products are identical to the Mercury Brand, which is supposed to be exclusive to Mercury dealers.

 

[USA_boater]

I had seen some sort of TSB's online that stated 15w40 to replace the 30wt but I wasn't aware of the 10w40 one. Since the Four Winns will only be used in warmer weather I chose the 15w40 but have since bought a jug of Mobil-1 15w50 full-syn for the next change. Perhaps I'll eventually settle on a marine 10w40? Would Sierra make a good FC-W? Can you point me to something on the 10w40 rec? I know Sierra still sells the full-syn 30wt just for the Volvo owners that didn't get the memo LOL.

 

[GA_Boater]

This is a little late to ask now, isn't it? Including break-in oil. JMHO.

 

[USA_boater]

Well we are talking 2 diff boats...the break in oil on the new boat is the oil the dealer put in it which I was told was Mercury 10w30. On the older Volvo, we were discussing oil in general...

For a boat, with the sort of RPM's they run, I'd think a multi-viscosity oil would tend to shear down and therefore a thicker multi oil would be safer? Hence 15w50 running 3-5k RPM would be better oil than say for a car that cruises at 2k RPMs?

 

[racerone]

Factories today produce parts in a more precise fashion.------Closer tolerance and finer finish and better materials / oil.------The term " break in " does not apply like in the past.

 

[USA_boater]

Factories today produce parts in a more precise fashion.------Closer tolerance and finer finish and better materials / oil.------The term " break in " does not apply like in the past.

Well this motor doesn't have roller lifters so I think anytime there are flat tappets (even for OHC), break-in is more important than in something with roller lifters like most new cars have. Don't you think THAT is what validates what you are saying and since the Merc isn't a roller motor (as far as I know) then break-in is still very important?

 

[GA_Boater]

Lifters and cam are broken during the first 15-20 minutes and is critical. The factory did the cam/lifter break-in when the motor was run in a test bay.

 

[USA_boater]

I hope you're right...I know the dealership had to fill it with oil before delivery so perhaps Mercury uses some break-in oil and then drains it before delivery to dealership? I just HOPE the punk who ran my new boat on the trailer didn't rev it up!