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Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

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  • Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

    This is my first boat:'95 Rinker 232, 5.7L Bravo III, 216 Hours, 8 of which are from me over the past 4 weeks.Everytime I start the boat since this last weekend, there is a single moderately loud click when I turn the key and then nothing. If I turn the key from off to start 5 to 10 times, it will engage and start.From reading various forums, I know I need to check all wiring and connections. I think the battery is strong as I flooded it once and it would crank the motor over continuously for as long as I cared to. The clicking started before the flooding.Should I replace the slave solenoid as it is cheap and easy to get to? My inclination is to remove the starter and disassmeble (if possible) the solenoid. What I expect to find is dirty contacts that are supposed to make when the bendix engages the flywheel. This is just a gut feel, not based on any tests. I don't want to replace a starter, if all that is wrong is some dirty contacts in the solenoid.I've been readiing a lot of starter posts here and in other forums. I've decided that this seems to be the place to start with a mechanical question. I hope I have outlined my situation well enough to allow for you all to make suggestions.What do you think of my plans to pull starter and clean solenoid? Should I replace the slave? I have a lot of room around the starter side of my motor and I don't anticpate the problems that many seem to have due to lack of space.
    1995 Rinker 232 Captiva
    5.7L Bravo III
    ENGINE SER. # OF287508

  • #2
    Re: Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

    I think the first thing is to figure out what is clicking and where you are loosing voltage or what component is not working.. If all you hear is a faint or small click that is most likely the slave solenoid mounted on top of the intake manifold(on some engines on top of the water/fuel seperater). Get a test light and see if you have voltage on both of the larger terminals when someone turns the key to start. If it clicks and you only have voltage on one terminal, it is bad and needs to be replaced. If you are hearing a louder click that seams to come from the starter area, that would be the starter solenoid. If it is clicking and the starter isn't turning, hit the starter a few times with a block of wood, if it suddenly starts to crank, you most likely have bad brushes in the starter motor. If that doesn't do it, put your test light on the large terminal opposite of the battery post of the starter solenoid, if you don't get 12V there when someone turns the key to start, you have a bad starter solenoid. If you do find bad contacts in the starter solenoid, evaluate how pitted or coroded they are, if bad, just replace the solenoid. If you try to file or clean pitted contacts you will have trouble later on....been there done that.

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    • #3
      Re: Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

      starter solenoids and starters are not hard to refurbish. most of the time with solenoids, the washer and end of the post get worn. post can be rotated 180 degrees and the washer cleaned up. starters can be disassembled, cleaned up, and lubed. be sure to make a wiring diagram so you know where the wires go.

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      • #4
        Re: Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

        You obviously have too much money if you plan on throwing new parts at it till you find the problem. Best thing to do would be to troubleshoot the system. Even corroded or loose battery cables will cause the click and sound like a bad starter.Here is a wiring diagram of your starting sytstem. With clean tight battery terminals do some troubleshooting. It usually only takes about 5 minutes to know EXACTLY what the problem is, and it don't cost a thing.
        Don S.


        Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
        That is what the forums are for.
        Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

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        • #5
          Re: Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

          Thanks for the responses. Definitely don't have money to burn, that's why I have a 10 year old boat. But I understand your point.Slave solenoid was fine on test light. The click was the starter solenoid. I pulled the starter (piece of cake, I understand I'm lucky)and took the starter apart, it was really gunked up. 2 of the 4 brushes were stuck open. I've cleaned it all up. I couldn't get the solenoid off to check the contacts because of the unusual bolts holding the solenoid case to the starter. I may still try to remove it, but I'm at a loss as to a real or makeshift tool to remove the bolts.I bet the cleanup already done will make the difference, but since its off it would be nice to complete the inspection and clean.Like I said thanks for the help.
          1995 Rinker 232 Captiva
          5.7L Bravo III
          ENGINE SER. # OF287508

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          • #6
            Re: Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

            While you're at it, might want to make sure you clean ALL relevent connections, even the grounds. I believe I've read here in the past that a gunked up/ corroded main ground has caused starting problems similar to what you're experiencing.After some diagnostic testing (based on these guys suggestions), I'm pretty sure that a bad slave solenoid ground was causing the problem I had with starting on my boat. But the slave was so old I busted off part of the plastic housing taking the bolts off to clean it, so had to buy a new one anyways.If you haven't fixed yours already, do a search using 'starting' and 'solenoid' and I believe you'll find a post with even more detailed diagnostic tips than mentioned on this one (I know Don contributed to that post as well, so maybe you can use the 'author' option to narrow the search down).

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            • #7
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              Re: Slave Solenoid/Solenoid/Starter Problem?

              If the solenoid bolts have "star" heads, you can get a socket for them at Sears, or any auto store that has a large tool department. You most likely have already found your problem (the brushes), however I would get a battery and jumper cables and "bench test" the starter before re-installing. Just remember the starter has a-lot of torque, make sure you have a firm grip on it before applying power or it will flop all over the bench.

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