Re: alpha 1 shift cable adjustment.. help
I did but I am not sure if I did it correctly.
#1- So am I supposed to push the cable all the way in until the prop FIRST locks CCW and stop, then adjust the barrel until it is 6", or do I push the cable all the way in and then adjust the barrel to 6"
You seem to be getting hung up on this concept of 'first engaged'. With dog clutches there is no 'first engaged', they are either 'engaged' or 'not engaged'. Partially engaging dog clutches is what destroys them!
sti1471 said:
#2- so after I adjust the barrel to 6" from barrel to hole, should the throttle lever be in forward WOT, forward gear indent, or neutral?
Right (in really simple language and following the book).
1. Remove both cables from the shift plate. For the moment ignore the remote control cable.
2. While turning the prop CCW, push the lower shift cable FULLY in.
3. With the prop held CCW release your hand from the slide on the lower shift cable. Measure (and adjust, if necessary, the brass barrel ONLY) to achieve a measurement of EXACTLY 6" from the centre of the hole in the end of the plastic slide to the centre of the brass barrel. This is the ONLY adjustment to the lower shift cable AND YOU DO NOT CHANGE IT AFTER THIS!!!
sti1471 said:
Becasue once i get that 6" mark, the lower shift cable will need to line up with the shift plate and barrel holder where ever the remote cable has it sitting in whatever position i need the throttle lever in. Or do I disconnect the remote cable and move the shift plate by hand to align the hole and barrel.
Read my point #1 above.
sti1471 said:
I was trying to figure this out, but it made no sense to me. If I get a 6" mark, then the barrel and shift plate might not line up, so do I move the barrel more (terminating my 6" mark) or do I adjust the shift plate to line up (altering the throttle lever position)?
I have the washer and will put it on within 2 hours. I will then make the 6" inch mark and report back.
On the shift plate loosen the nut on the back of the stud that the plastic slide of the lower shift cable goes on. Push the stud to the lower end of the slot and retighten the nut (it looks like yours it at the top of the slot at the moment). Now without pulling the lower shift cable (it's best if you, or someone, keeps some load on the prop in the CCW direction) put it in position on the shift plate. Put the lock pin in across the brass barrel and the nyloc nut on the stud. Don't tighten the nut down onto the slide, it should be just loose enough to allow movement, maybe 5 thou if I had to put a measurement on it.. This now has the drive locked in the fully forward gear and the shift plate also in forward.
Move the control box to the WOT forward gear position. Offer up the remote control cable to its position on the shift plate. This is were the procedure will get complicated because you have a non-Merc control cable, so we will improvise.
The book says to adjust the brass barrel on the remote cable so the positioning is right, then turn the brass barrel 4 turns away from the end of the cable and put it on the shift plate. Job finished....
With your cable we will try this and see what happens:
I see a locknut locking the small plastic end piece on. Loosen that lock nut and adjust the end piece to get the cable position right, then see if the end piece will unscrew another 2 turns without falling off. If it does, try another 2. If it's still on, then tighten the locknut and we will call that 'adjusted'.
Fit the remote cable to the shift plate. I hope your helper is still there... While you are at the back of the boat, get him/her to pull the control back to neutral. You check that the prop spins freely. Now get helper to pull back into reverse, while you turn the prop CW. When helper is at idle in reverse, check to make sure you have good engagement of the dog clutch. Remember when you did the check I asked you to do about how the prop felt when the dog was fully engaged? That is what you are looking for, as LITTLE 'free' movement of the prop as possible. If there is not enough engagement (too much movement of the prop without resistance), then jump back in the boat, push the throttle to WOT in reverse, loosen the nut on the back of the lower shift cable stud and start to move it up the slot. When/if it starts to get tight and try to move the interrupter cam, stop there and tighten the nut on the back of the stud.
Believe it or not, that is the adjustment done.....
Once you've done it a few times it really is a 5 minute job.... But you MUST do it by the book. Do that and it will work every time....
Chris.......