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Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

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  • Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

    I am in the process of reinstalling the cylinder head on my mercruiser 140 and I am not exactly sure the easiest way to adjust my valves before installing the valve cover. I am reading you need to turn the motor but maybe I'm stupid but the motor mount is in the way and I don't see any real way to get a wrench on it to turn it so I can find adjust to lifters in up or down position. Can I go with a wrench down slow until no play on the push rod then back off 1/4 turn method or a specific torque adjustment?

  • #2
    Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

    but the motor mount is in the way and I don't see any real way to get a wrench on it to turn it
    Ayuh,... Tighten the V-belt, remove the sparkplugs,+ use a wrench on the Alternator...

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    • #3
      Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

      Originally posted by ThePhoneGuy View Post
      Can I go with a wrench down slow until no play on the push rod then back off 1/4 turn method or a specific torque adjustment?
      You can but its wrong.
      Set the number one at TDC. tighten the valves while twisting the push rod. when the push rod stops twisting, add a 1/2 to 3/4 turn MORE. repeat the procedure on the rest at TDC and your done.
      2011 Triton 190 Escape SE 150 Mercury Pro XS

      I never learned much from winning, but always learn from failure.
      Semper Fi

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      • #4
        Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

        Originally posted by bifflefan View Post
        You can but its wrong.
        Set the number one at TDC. tighten the valves while twisting the push rod. when the push rod stops twisting, add a 1/2 to 3/4 turn MORE. repeat the procedure on the rest at TDC and your done.
        You forgot to mention a couple very important parts. Things like which valves you adjust while at #1 TDC on the compression stroke, and what you do after those few are adjusted.
        Don S.


        Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
        That is what the forums are for.
        Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

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        • #5
          Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

          Originally posted by Don S View Post
          You forgot to mention a couple very important parts. Things like which valves you adjust while at #1 TDC on the compression stroke, and what you do after those few are adjusted.
          I assumed (my bad) that since the OP knew just about how do it that he was just needing a prod in the right direction.
          2011 Triton 190 Escape SE 150 Mercury Pro XS

          I never learned much from winning, but always learn from failure.
          Semper Fi

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          • #6
            Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

            Originally posted by bifflefan View Post
            I assumed (my bad) that since the OP knew just about how do it that he was just needing a prod in the right direction.
            From what I read, I sure wouldn't assume that.
            Don S.


            Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
            That is what the forums are for.
            Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

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            • #7
              Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

              Assumption correct... I have almost no idea what I'm doing. lol

              The more information the better.

              Thanks a lot

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              • #8
                Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                Follow Bondo's recommendation on turning the engine (yes removing the spark plugs is necessary) and be sure you understand #1 TDC on the compression stroke (aka firing position) before you attempt to adjust the valves.
                Then just follow what the manual says.
                One note, when you get to zero lash when removing slack, do it one time and one time only.
                Don S.


                Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
                That is what the forums are for.
                Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                  PS... Zero lash is when your twisting the pushrod back and forth with your 2 fingers and thumb and while tightening down the rocker you feel the pushrod start to slightly drag against your fingers. It's not super tight, it's done by feel, and your feeling for a light resistance to rolling.
                  just because you found it that way does not mean it is supposed to be that way.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                    After Zero Lash is it 1/2, 3/4, or 1 full turn? My manual (seloc) says 1 full turn after zero lash. I'm doing the same as thephoneguy, except mine is a 120.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                      Thank you all for the input. I'm going to take a second crack at it this weekend. BTW the manual says something about using some tool that I'm guessing compresses the spring. I'm going to guess thats not necessary?

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                      • #12
                        Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                        This is the cast iron 4 cylinder motor ,correct?
                        What manual are you seeing the info regarding compressing the spring?
                        NO PERSONAL QUESTIONS, THIS IS WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                          Originally posted by Bt Doctur View Post
                          This is the cast iron 4 cylinder motor ,correct?
                          What manual are you seeing the info regarding compressing the spring?
                          I believe it's the mercuiser shop manual, but I'll check in the morning

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                          • #14
                            Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                            Originally posted by Don S View Post
                            Follow Bondo's recommendation on turning the engine (yes removing the spark plugs is necessary) and be sure you understand #1 TDC on the compression stroke (aka firing position) before you attempt to adjust the valves.
                            Then just follow what the manual says.
                            One note, when you get to zero lash when removing slack, do it one time and one time only.
                            You say to adjust to Zero Lash once & only once. Why? I have a good/bad habit of double checking everything.

                            Actually, I'll be re-adjusting my lifters. I'm trying to adjust out the clicking valves that happens after my engine is warmed up.

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                            • #15
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                              Re: Adjusting Valves... Inline 4

                              So I've taken notes on all of your advice, but now I think things just took a major turn for the worse... I can not turn the motor. I sure I did not store properly for the winter after removing the head the end of last season. I had water in the oil and I did drain and refill but only one time. I tried tightening the alternator belt to turn the alternator with a wrench but it just keeps slipping. Then I tried wedging a long screwdriver between two of the four bolts on the from of the water pump pulley at the right angle to give me some torque downward to try and turn it that way, but nothing. I'm really fearing the worse at this point that everything is just rusted up and ceased inside. I know I know... in plain terms, I F@#KED UP!

                              I've done about all I can up to this point with my limited motor knowledge and unless I can some how free the motor up, I think I will be selling the boat and trailer. Hopefully I can find someone who needs a 18' Sea Ray parts boat with a good Load Rite trailer. Any thoughts on what I should sell for?

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