rear mounts mc1/pre alpha / alignment issues after gimble bearing replacement

[merc120_81]

After gimble bearing replacement, just can't seem to get to align. seeing some off left/right. and have some motion on the port rear side of the motor when removing allignment tool between tweaks/tests of allignment.

I commented on another post, BT advised, to try loosening rear mounts and front lags, adjusting the engine and re-torque. I am going to give that a shot, but if that fails I want to get the parts on order ASAP.

I am having an issue figuring out correct part numbers for rear mounts on the following:
1981 120 s/n 5828080 engine
Transom plate s/n 5776312
Stern Drive 5804180

I think I need bolt kit sierra
bolt kit
18-2140

Mounts/bushings
18-2193
-I am concerned that these maybe too "new" 1983/bravo not alpha/pre-alpha mc1?

 

[Bt Doctur]

the bolts get replaced if your are in poor condition. The rear bushings are correct and they use the doublewound spring

 

[merc120_81]

So I am now in deep.

I pulled the motor, and got the mount on the starter side (starboard side of the motor out with a threaded rod and washer and a 1 1/6" 3/4"drive socket. Not so lucky on the port side.

I am including pictures of my new mounts which I believe are the new style. they came with new top spacer, and I have purchased a bolt kit.

Q1) I have removed the bell housing. best method to press in and press out the mounts?? it seems the port side I don't have the clearance to use the same setup I used on the starboard side. I also could not use the same rig to press the new mount in.

Q2) Is there an up and down to the mounts??

Q3) the spacer washer has a champfered edge does it go up or down toward the mount itself?

Q4) the new spacer and the new mount seem to be slightly different then the old ones.. The spacer is bigger in the new one, and the mount seems just a tiny bit shorter.

Nervous about cracking that bell housing if the mount doesn't go in nice and straight .

 

[Bt Doctur]

look on the bottom of the bushing. If knurled you may only need the thin SS washer, if smooth you need the doublewound spring

 

[merc120_81]

The bottoms of the mounts are smooth.

When pressing in the new mounts, the spacer goes in first?

The spacer has a chamfered/angled edge, I assume that goes down?

I am still having a heck of a time getting the port side one pressed out, and the new ones in for that matter, any hits on techniques would be greatly appreciated, thank you all for your time.

 

[merc120_81]

slowly making progress.
I got the port bushing and spacer out cave man style.. thump hammer and a 7/8" kobalt impact socket to drive it all out.

I also believe I found a reference that states the chamfered edge of the spacer presses into the mount first, goes chamfered edge DOWN toward the mount, can anyone confirm??

I am replacing both sides, with what I believe is the new style. (siera 18-2193) only thing I could find available.
These do not have knurls on the bottom, but the spacer that goes in the mount first appears to be the thicker style.


It appears someone before me... replaced one of the motor mounts with possible newer style mount, as the spacers that came out on port and starboard are of different thickness.. almost 1/16th of an inch If I were to guess.. this does address the play we saw when trying to align.

So the question is double coil spacer washer, or no washer on the bottom(inside the fiber washer)?

Some have mentioned a stainless steel washer??
If stainless steel washer, do I need to micromeeter the thickness and what should it be?

 

[achris]

You have mounts with a smooth edge, use the double coil spacer..

Chris...

 

[merc120_81]

thanks Chris, tearing into it tomorrow (Tuesday US Eastern GMT -4 evening.. will report back.

 

[merc120_81]

..got the new mounts in with the following:

for installation:
assemble the following:

12" 7/16" threaded rod
3 grade 8 7/16" nuts
3 grade 8 7/16" flat washers
1 grade8 1/2 Flat washer

1" 1/2" drive deep well socket (I used a Kobalt brand from Lowe's)
1 1/16" 1/2" drive deep well socket (I used a Kobalt brand from Lowe's)

lock 2 nuts together on the threaded rod at the pulling end.
place 1 7/16" flat washer on the 2 nuts locked together.
place 1/2" flat washer on the 7/16" washer.
place 1/2" drive 1" deep well (kobalt brand is what I used (avail at lowes) this will pull the bushing/mount in.

I started the mounts in by taping/driving them in using the 1" socket and a hammer, I could not get the puller mechanism to just pull them in and keep them straight, getting them started straight is crucial take your time.. and go slowly.

Then place the bushing/mount on the rod and pass this assembly through the flywheel housing.

Next place the 1 1/6" socket over the rod on the top side and seat so it is square to the hole.

then 2 7/16" flat washers and then the 7/16" nut (11/16 wrench size)

slowly tighten the top single nut making sure to keep things aligned and straight.

** see photo for the assembly **

Removal of the mounts, I used the 7/8" ...or it may have been 1" socket to slowly drive the bushing and chamfered spacer out with a hammer.

 

[achris]

..got the new mounts in with the following:

for installation:
assemble the following:

12" 7/16" threaded rod
3 grade 8 7/16" nuts
3 grade 8 7/16" flat washers
1 grade8 1/2 Flat washer

1" 1/2" drive deep well socket (I used a Kobalt brand from Lowe's)
1 1/16" 1/2" drive deep well socket (I used a Kobalt brand from Lowe's)

lock 2 nuts together on the threaded rod at the pulling end.
place 1 7/16" flat washer on the 2 nuts locked together.
place 1/2" flat washer on the 7/16" washer.
place 1/2" drive 1" deep well (kobalt brand is what I used (avail at lowes) this will pull the bushing/mount in.

I started the mounts in by taping/driving them in using the 1" socket and a hammer, I could not get the puller mechanism to just pull them in and keep them straight, getting them started straight is crucial take your time.. and go slowly.

Then place the bushing/mount on the rod and pass this assembly through the flywheel housing.

Next place the 1 1/6" socket over the rod on the top side and seat so it is square to the hole.

then 2 7/16" flat washers and then the 7/16" nut (11/16 wrench size)

slowly tighten the top single nut making sure to keep things aligned and straight.

** see photo for the assembly **

Removal of the mounts, I used the 7/8" ...or it may have been 1" socket to slowly drive the bushing and chamfered spacer out with a hammer.

:thumb:

 

[merc120_81]

Motor is back in.
Alignment tool slips in with two fingers, drive doesn't want to seat.

anybody got any tips? I am going to re-review the alignment stickys tonight too.

we did turn the motor over as close to 90 degree increments as we could, and tool goes in the same.

I still fear a possible coupler issue, as I stated before, on mount replacement I found miss matched mounts port/starboard on rear. New gimble bearing brought all this headache to light.

 

[achris]

Drive and remote control in forward gear? (Check the intermediate shift shaft is pointing directly forward). Make sure the shift slide is upright and the lever on top of the upper shift shaft is in the 'fingers' of the slide. If the yoke splines need turning, turn the prop CCW (only!) until it slips in. If the drive is going all the way but short an inch, the 'O rings on the yoke may be stopping on the gimbal bearing. Use a 'Merkick'.... (NEVER EVER draw it on with the nuts!)

Chris........

 

[merc120_81]

Mission accomplished..
have to clean up riser gaskets, re-install, throttle cable and repair wiring harness that came apart when the motor came out. thanks for the all the help to BT and Achris!
Adding a couple images to this thread, stolen from other threads, to help others if they read it..

*yes that pic is stollen from one of Don's posts from 2012!