1989 Rinker V180 4.3L new to me have some questions

Tanker_01

Cadet
Joined
Jun 5, 2020
Messages
28
I just bought a '89 Rinker V180 with the 4.3L and Alpha one G1. It needs the gimbal bearing replaced (rumbles at low speeds) but other than that drives great and starts super easy cold. One thing I noticed the first time we took it out is it does not like hot starts at all. It seems like either fuel is running back from the carb into the tank and not priming enough to get fuel flow back into the carb. My first question is can I add an inline fuel pump and a momentary switch to prime the carb? or is there possibly a check valve I can run inline to keep pressure for starting? when I gave it a spritz of ether it started right up no problem.

As far as replacing the gimbal bearing, I have ordered a replacement kit complete with bellows and gaskets and such as well as the tool to do it. I also plan to do the U joints while I am in there as well if they are bad and replace my chewed up prop. Are there any tips and tricks to replacing any of these parts?

My last question is where and how do I find out what belts I need to get to replace my squealing ones? Do I just need to search the engine serial to find out or will that not tell me the correct ones?

Thanks in advance for any info! I'm new to boat stuff and used to car stuff so most of this is familiar but the out drive stuff is all brand new to me.
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,438
it does not like hot starts at all. It seems like either fuel is running back from the carb into the tank and not priming enough to get fuel flow back into the carb. My first question is can I add an inline fuel pump and a momentary switch to prime the carb? or is there possibly a check valve I can run inline to keep pressure for starting? when I gave it a spritz of ether it started right up no problem.



As far as replacing the gimbal bearing, I have ordered a replacement kit complete with bellows and gaskets and such as well as the tool to do it. I also plan to do the U joints while I am in there as well if they are bad and replace my chewed up prop. Are there any tips and tricks to replacing any of these parts?

My last question is where and how do I find out what belts I need to get to replace my squealing ones? Do I just need to search the engine serial to find out or will that not tell me the correct ones?

Thanks in advance for any info! I'm new to boat stuff and used to car stuff so most of this is familiar but the out drive stuff is all brand new to me.

Fuel can't siphon from the float bowl back to the tank. There may be an anti-flow back check in the tank or pump, but this shouldn't affect starting. I suspect you have a lean condition or dirty carb. Good cold starting is probably because the choke causes a rich mixture. Start with a carb kit and a thorough cleaning. Set the idle mixture screw per the kit instructions and adjust from there when the engine is warm.

You will need an alignment tool to check gimbal bearing and engine coupler alignment after changing the gimbal bearing. Unis can be changed with the drive shaft assembly in the outdrive. But it's easier to pull the assembly. You will need the special retaining ring spanner to do this.

I go to MarineEngine dot com to get p/ns and shop here. They show 44" and 46" circulating pump belts depending on your engine. Alternator belts are harder to find. You can also take your old belts to a auto parts store and have them measure them. Advance Auto and others may fuss since they link parts to a specific vehicle, but they can do it with some effort.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Walk into your local NAPA and hand em your belts. They'll fix you right up.

INSPECT everything. Stop buying parts, like bellows kits, unless you have pulled the drive and inspected the installed one and determined it is bad.I would agree that doing gimbal and u-joints is appropriate here. You need to get the right manual, I believe #6, and start in on all the required maintenance. Assume nothing was done for a long time. Get an alignment bar and check alignment every time you pull the drive. Pop the top on the drive and inspect the bevel gears up top. Look in the bellows, any oil or water? Grease is ok. Split the drive and inspect the water pump, both impeller and housing. Look at the water pocket where the copper water tube connects to the upper case - melted? Build a pressure tester and pressure test your drive after reassembly. Look in the stickies for guidance on what you are looking for. Ask away here for specifics. We'll be happy to help.

Rick
 

Bondo

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Messages
70,465
I just bought a '89 Rinker V180 with the 4.3L and Alpha one G1. It needs the gimbal bearing replaced (rumbles at low speeds) but other than that drives great and starts super easy cold. One thing I noticed the first time we took it out is it does not like hot starts at all. It seems like either fuel is running back from the carb into the tank and not priming enough to get fuel flow back into the carb.

Ayuh,....... Welcome Aboard,..... As Dave said, that's impossible,...... Which carb,..?? 2bbl. or 4bbl.,..??
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,297
if its the rochester carb, look at the welsh plugs. if they are leaking the bowl will empty by spilling into the intake.
 

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
I have the exact setup like you. After my carb rebuilt, it starts warm within a split second. Make sure you get the float height right or it will flood the carb. Don't ask how I know. Madprops has a video on how to rebuild one.
 
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