U joint yoke seal leak

[DanD34]

I have a 1988 Alpha One Gen 1 with a 3.0 GM engine. Bought the boat last summer and have been spending this winter doing maintenance from the front of the engine back to the propeller. Anyway I found the U joint bellows with a good amount of gear oil in it. Disassembled the input shaft and found a pretty good groove in the yoke where the seal contacts. I've read choices are to either replace of course or else install new seal slightly deeper to get it to a new spot on the yoke. Is that really a practical move? Does it work well? The surface of the yoke is in great shape inside the spot where the old seal contacted. If I get a new yoke will the gear mesh still be correct? I will reuse all of the races, bearings and shims and have them hanging on a wire in the order they were previously installed. Mercury service manual number 6 says to just install with components in same order when just doing a u joint job but describes the proper shimming procedure for a major rebuild when installing new bearings, gears etc.. Does just a new yoke require measuring the gear mesh?
Will post a couple pics.
On a side note..told my wife's boss's husband about my plans and he said he had a few tools I could borrow as you can see in the other picture. Got lucky I guess.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I used a SpeediSleeve on mine to repair that exact issue. Worked like a charm... IMHO, better than replacing the yoke as the SpeediSleeve is harder and last longer without wearing a groove.

I believe you have to set a rolling torque of 6 to 10 inch pounds on the bearings when you reassemble. I do not believe you have to reshim the lash on the gear set just because you replace the yoke and shaft. That lash is determined by the bearings, not the shaft.

Main thing is setting the rolling torque properly. I purchased a torque gauge that went up to 30 inch pounds when I did mine the first time. Has served well and total cost was still well below what a shop would charge to reseal my drive.

 

[DanD34]

Thank you for the response. I've never used one of those speedi sleeves. Any tips on how to use them? Do you remember what size of speedi sleeve is needed for this application?
as far as setting the rolling torque, mine is the older design with the small spacer between the bearing cones. Just torque the nut to 70-80 foot pounds and you are done. Newer one didnt have that spacer and you must use the rolling torque procedure.

 

[DanD34]

One more thing. Does anyone know the dimensions of the speedi sleeve needed for this application?

 

[kenny nunez]

Do what Rick advised. Take the yoke to a NAPA store or a bearing supply house and you will get the one you need. You will notice that one end of the sleeve is flared out, the instructions will tell you to peel it off. Do not do that just leave it in place. Trying to remove it you may slip and scratch the polished surface. I always put a wipe of silicone on the shaft before installing the sleeve. Wrap a piece of tape around the polished surface to protect it when you install the sleeve.
I have used the sleeves many times on Mercruiser drives with no problems.

 

[Rick Stephens]

One more thing. Does anyone know the dimensions of the speedi sleeve needed for this application?

I think it's SKF 99225. You can read here. Measure before ordering.

 

[DanD34]

Thanks for the replies but I was wondering if there are specific instructions for how to install the sleeve in this application. The reason I ask is because the surface on the yoke is only .5" wide while the 99225 Speedi sleeve according to the chart is .938" so would stick out .438 inches. Doesnt the sleeve need to be on past the end of the shaft it's being installed on for both support and to not damage the seal during installation? I've seen no one mention the 99227 speedi sleeve that has an overall width of .438". This one would install about 1/16 inch past the end of the shaft and should be ideal. Am I missing something? Like I said sorry to beat a dead horse but want to understand specifics because prices for some of the speedi sleeves are more than half of a NOS yoke on ebay and I dont want to waste money. Thanks.

 

[achris]

.... I've read choices are to either replace of course or else install new seal slightly deeper to get it to a new spot on the yoke. Is that really a practical move? Does it work well? ....

Installing the seal 40 thou deeper in the carrier is a genuine option. It is easy to do and it works perfectly. I've done it many times.

Speedi-sleeve is the other option, also easy and works well. Speedi-sleeves come with a 'cup' that you use to install them. As you're installing onto a surface with a shaft poking out, you'll need to cut a hole in the end of the cup so it'll go over the shaft. You then clean the shaft with acetone, put some sealer on it, put the sleeve and installer on and tap gently on the cup to 'push' the sleeve into place. With the right sleeve, you keep tapping until it bottoms out. Normally you then remove the sleeve installation ring (attached to the sleeve), but in this case it's perfectly ok to leave the ring attached. Job done...

Chris........

 

[harringtondav]

achris 's suggestion works well. I've done this twice over 23 yrs. with my drive. Now he probably won't agree with this alternative. Buy a Sierra yoke. 18-2125. It will cost you less than the Speedi Sleeve and installation.

And heed Rick Stephens advice. Preload on the bearings is very critical. Chris has a good video showing the process in his footer above.

 

[DanD34]

achris 's suggestion works well. I've done this twice over 23 yrs. with my drive. Now he probably won't agree with this alternative. Buy a Sierra yoke. 18-2125. It will cost you less than the Speedi Sleeve and installation.

And heed Rick Stephens advice. Preload on the bearings is very critical. Chris has a good video showing the process in his footer above.

From my reading of the Mercruiser Service manual it describes the rolling torque procedure for newer drives without the smaller spacer ring but mine does have the smaller spacer ring that sits between the two bearing cones and from what I read that sets the preload and you just torque the nut to 70-80 foot pounds. Is that correct?

As far as the Sierra yoke goes, they are of good quality and at least from one of the better Chinese factories? It may be a good option too. Thanks

 

[DanD34]

Installing the seal 40 thou deeper in the carrier is a genuine option. It is easy to do and it works perfectly. I've done it many times.

Speedi-sleeve is the other option, also easy and works well. Speedi-sleeves come with a 'cup' that you use to install them. As you're installing onto a surface with a shaft poking out, you'll need to cut a hole in the end of the cup so it'll go over the shaft. You then clean the shaft with acetone, put some sealer on it, put the sleeve and installer on and tap gently on the cup to 'push' the sleeve into place. With the right sleeve, you keep tapping until it bottoms out. Normally you then remove the sleeve installation ring (attached to the sleeve), but in this case it's perfectly ok to leave the ring attached. Job done...

Chris........

Thank you. I've tried to educate myself on the speedi sleeve sin e I first made this post. Sounds good. But my question still remains....on this post and others I've found in the archives I've seen part number 99225 mentioned but this sleeve is almost 4/10 of an inch wider than the width of the sealing surface on the yoke. How does it possibll work? Seems like the smaller one I mentioned would be the better choice?

 

[harringtondav]

From my reading of the Mercruiser Service manual it describes the rolling torque procedure for newer drives without the smaller spacer ring but mine does have the smaller spacer ring that sits between the two bearing cones and from what I read that sets the preload and you just torque the nut to 70-80 foot pounds. Is that correct?

As far as the Sierra yoke goes, they are of good quality and at least from one of the better Chinese factories? It may be a good option too. Thanks

No. 70-80 ft lb will cook your bearings at start up. My Merc Manual #14 for Alpha Gen II specs 6-10 in/lb for new bearings, 3-7.5 in/lb for used bearings. 6 in/lb is a nice target for used bearings. I guess the same applies to your Gen I. The spacer ring doesn't affect preload. The torque on the nut, while rotating the bearings does.

Please look into Chris's video. The process is touchy-feely, but critical. Too loose and your gear yoke shaft/input gear will deflect from proper mesh cone point and backlash. Noise, pitting, failure. Too tight and the bearings could fail.

 

[achris]

No. 70-80 ft lb will cook your bearings at start up. My Merc Manual #14 for Alpha Gen II specs 6-10 in/lb for new bearings, 3-7.5 in/lb for used bearings. 6 in/lb is a nice target for used bearings. I guess the same applies to your Gen I. The spacer ring doesn't affect preload. The torque on the nut, while rotating the bearings does.

Please look into Chris's video. The process is touchy-feely, but critical. Too loose and your gear yoke shaft/input gear will deflect from proper mesh cone point and backlash. Noise, pitting, failure. Too tight and the bearings could fail.

I'm sorry Dave, I can't let you do that....

Sorry, couldn't help myself....

But, yes, 70-80 ft/lb on that set up IS correct. As Dan has said, he has the old style with the inner spacer...

And his service manual is #6, not #14.... (He has an Alpha One, not an Alpha One, Gen II)

Chris........

 

[harringtondav]

I'm sorry Dave, I can't let you do that....

Sorry, couldn't help myself....

But, yes, 70-80 ft/lb on that set up IS correct. As Dan has said, he has the old style with the inner spacer...

And his service manual is #6, not #14.... (He has an Alpha One, not an Alpha One, Gen II)

Chris........

Thanks for the correction. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[Rick Stephens]

When I installed my sleeve I trimmed off the extra 4 tenths with a die grinder. Then sanded a little bevel on the edge. Never a problem and been running that way for several years. And yeah, I remember the older input shaft being torqued to 60 ft pounds. Just be glad we gots Chris around to square our 'stuff' up.

Rick