Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Welcome Guest - Sign Up today

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

140 won’t idle correctly

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • SSTKO81
    started a topic 140 won’t idle correctly

    140 won’t idle correctly

    Good morning! I’ve been running down ignition gremlins and now that I’ve got this licked it seems there could be a fuel problem. (Long story made longer)
    this engine had to have a new crank and #2 piston due to spinning a bearing.So it’s been blown Apart and back together, timing set to 6* and will run if the idle is held up in the 1100-1500 range. When cold starting it will immediately try to run but dies. After that some pretty aggressive feathering of the throttle has to be done to find a happy spot. If you can get it up and running for a minute or two then you can bring the idol down to around 700 to 800 RPM long enough to make timing adjustments throttle adjustments etc. But as it continues to warm up it gets more difficult to keep running. RPMs will start dropping And you have to continually make adjustments to the throttle to keep it going when it does finally die it’s very difficult to restart. There’s a lot of backfiring in sputtering. I’m just not Sure where to start my search it feels like a fuel issue. But why would it only become an issue as the engine continues to warm up?

  • SSTKO81
    replied
    Worn..... Warren doesn’t have a thing to do with it

    Leave a comment:


  • SSTKO81
    replied
    I was having a hard time finding bearings but in the process found the distributor shaft is Warren way out of tolerance so I just bought a used voyager EST… Does anyone have a wiring schematic or any special instructions?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bondo
    replied
    Originally posted by SSTKO81 View Post
    The snap ring! I remember see it at some point in the past. I must have taken it out for some reason or it broke.... I’ll have to hope I can find a replacement
    Ayuh,...... Better hardware stores will have several snap-ring indexes, that should have what ya need,.....

    Leave a comment:


  • SSTKO81
    replied
    The snap ring! I remember see it at some point in the past. I must have taken it out for some reason or it broke.... I’ll have to hope I can find a replacement

    Leave a comment:


  • Bt Doctur
    replied
    Some, not all have a small snap ring at the top of the lobe section, some are pinned and some are welded .They dont simply pull off

    Leave a comment:


  • SSTKO81
    replied
    BT which part isn’t supposed to come off? The part with the lobes separating from the shaft? How I I correct that?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bt Doctur
    replied
    There are 2 bushings in the dist body, top and bottom. When they wear out the lobes will vary the point gap and vary the timing and maybe not let a lobe open the points to fire the plug. If there is side to side play in the shaft, its worn.

    Leave a comment:


  • SSTKO81
    replied
    Originally posted by Bt Doctur View Post
    Simply replace the bushings or have new bushings machined from oilite bronze
    and that part is not supposed to come off like that
    I’m not sure what these bushing are you’re referring to. Can they be purchased on the web site? Any special tools to install?
    ill also look into the deco voyager system

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott06
    replied
    BT dr is steering you right, but If you have to take the distributor apart may be worth upgrading the the deco voyager est system. I think the whole system is like $300-350 for a 3.0. While there’s nothing wrong with properly maintained points it may be worth not having to adjust them again

    Leave a comment:


  • Bt Doctur
    replied
    Simply replace the bushings or have new bushings machined from oilite bronze
    and that part is not supposed to come off like that

    Leave a comment:


  • SSTKO81
    replied
    I can’t tell.... looks worn to me. And there’s definitely play where it fits over the shaft

    Leave a comment:


  • SSTKO81
    replied
    Well I’m confident in my float level now. I’m confident everything is clean and I’m confident the carb is working as it should. I got it to fire and run and it held around 1200 rpm fine, but had a bad miss as RPMs came down . So I started looking at spark rathe than fuel and found a weak spark on #1 and #3.... maybe that’s why it’s so hard to start. On closer inspection I found enough play in the distributor shaft to effect dwell and point gap significantly. -we’re talking from .016 to .022.... so I’m thinking the distributor needs work. Any suggestions?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rick Stephens
    replied
    Originally posted by SSTKO81 View Post

    I’m not confident in the float level. That’s what I’m getting at. This carb number registers to a 250 that called for different float specs than the 140. But the 140 was never equipped with this particular carb. So I’m going to take the carb back off and reset the float according to 140 spec and try again
    I wouldn't. The float level is carburetor based, not application based.

    Leave a comment:


  • SSTKO81
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott06 View Post

    If fuel is getting there and you're confident float level is correct and it won't idle, despite multiple rebuilds somewhere your idle circuit is clogged.

    at higher rpms where it runs carb idle transition slots and main venturis start feeding fuel.
    I’m not confident in the float level. That’s what I’m getting at. This carb number registers to a 250 that called for different float specs than the 140. But the 140 was never equipped with this particular carb. So I’m going to take the carb back off and reset the float according to 140 spec and try again

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X