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Another cracked block?

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  • #16
    dont know, you stated it had water in it. only place that water can come from is a leak

    the inside of your bellows should be as dry as a popcorn fart.

    pull motor and repair the motor mount blocks correctly. band-aid plates are just that..... a band-aid.

    take a 1/4" drill, tape off about an inch from the tip. drill parallel to the hull into the mounting blocks (and stringers, and transom) about an inch or so above the inside of the hull, about 6" apart

    if you get dry, light-colored shavings, you simply mix up some marine-tex epoxy and fill the holes and go boating

    if you get wet, dark-colored shavings, you have rot..... pull the drive, motor, interior and cap, then start your re-hab.

    If you get water pouring out the hole.... grab a beer, swear...., then take a deep breath. we have all been there.

    your boat is a 1990.... not bad for a 30 year old boat with a design life of 15 years.
    Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

    1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

    Past Boats
    1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
    2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
    1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

    What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
      dont know, you stated it had water in it. only place that water can come from is a leak

      the inside of your bellows should be as dry as a popcorn fart.

      pull motor and repair the motor mount blocks correctly. band-aid plates are just that..... a band-aid.

      take a 1/4" drill, tape off about an inch from the tip. drill parallel to the hull into the mounting blocks (and stringers, and transom) about an inch or so above the inside of the hull, about 6" apart

      if you get dry, light-colored shavings, you simply mix up some marine-tex epoxy and fill the holes and go boating

      if you get wet, dark-colored shavings, you have rot..... pull the drive, motor, interior and cap, then start your re-hab.

      If you get water pouring out the hole.... grab a beer, swear...., then take a deep breath. we have all been there.

      your boat is a 1990.... not bad for a 30 year old boat with a design life of 15 years.
      Thanks. The leak is obvious otherwise there wouldnt be water in it. My question is, what is the common entry point of water if the bellow is okay. If brown water means rust, shouldn't that water be coming from the water passage o-ring?
      The bell housing gasket is okeish, maybe is the o-ring seems and rubber gasket. will replace both and see how it goes.

      If the stinger is rotten or has water on it, it would have to wait until next year no time and money for that. Thanks for the advice though.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Joshto View Post

        Thanks. The leak is obvious otherwise there wouldnt be water in it. My question is, what is the common entry point of water if the bellow is okay. If brown water means rust, shouldn't that water be coming from the water passage o-ring?
        The bell housing gasket is okeish, maybe is the o-ring seems and rubber gasket. will replace both and see how it goes.

        If the stinger is rotten or has water on it, it would have to wait until next year no time and money for that. Thanks for the advice though.
        Water in the bellows can be from anywhere there is a connection, a gasket, a seal, a bellows. All it takes is one or two little things not making a good seal. It certainly can be from the big drive to bellhousing gasket. IMHO, the big square o-ring that is glued into the bellhousing is more for looks than really to keep a leak in the shifter pocket from allowing water into the u-joint bellows. I don't think it is effective at that. And again, IMHO, could be left off a well sealed drive without effect. That said, any leak in the drive to bellhousing gasket or water passage o-ring, will eventually allow water into the bellows. Any crack or bad connection of bellows to bell housing or gimbal housing will of course also leak water into same place.

        Unfortunately there is no magic here. With an older boat that you want to make run for a while, start at 'A' and end at 'Z' on your maintenance list.
        17 Foot '90 Bluewater
        Alpha 1 3.0 Merc - repowered in 2016
        now - 4.3L Vortec - Alpha 1 GenII
        Honda BF100L kicker
        Engine custom - Transom 0D65328 - Drive 0D648864
        If you ain't fishin, then yer working too much.

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        • #19
          For future reference, never put JB weld on a crack that could be fixed by electric arc welding. It slows the job down greatly because of the clean up involved in getting all the jb weld removed.
          a cast iron or cast steel manifold (or block) can be repaired by electric arc welding but you have to get everything clean prior to welding successfully. I prefer to tig weld this material myself but it can also be stick welded or even braze welded with oxygen/acetylene .

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Joshto View Post

            Read that in the service manual. It seems a 1inch pipe can make it just fine.
            Yeah, we had one come in, the guy lined it up with a one inch pipe two weeks ago. Took the entire family out in the apostle Islands, made it ten miles out and blew the coupler. Expensive tow back in, and we got it repaired the next day so his vacation wasn't totally wasted.
            Buy the tool.
            If ya can't fix it with a hammer,ya got yourself an electrical problem.

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            • #21
              Sign up today
              Originally posted by snoeproe View Post
              For future reference, never put JB weld on a crack that could be fixed by electric arc welding. It slows the job down greatly because of the clean up involved in getting all the jb weld removed.
              a cast iron or cast steel manifold (or block) can be repaired by electric arc welding but you have to get everything clean prior to welding successfully. I prefer to tig weld this material myself but it can also be stick welded or even braze welded with oxygen/acetylene .
              Its a 3.0...... Just replace it (they come in the free boats on CL) They crack on the inside and the outside...... Not worth the effort to clean the block enough to attempt to weld
              Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

              1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

              Past Boats
              1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
              2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
              1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

              What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

              Comment

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