97 3.0lx running problems

switzer140

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 29, 2013
Messages
35
I've got a 97 celebrity 180 I have been restoring. I have replaced a lot of parts and this project has been ongoing for around 2 years or so. I am finally in the finishing stages of the project but having problems getting the engine running properly. I replaced the carburetor, fuel pump, cap, rotor, plugs and wires, 2 years ago when I got the boat and the engine was running. Now I am having problems getting the engine to start. I usually have to fill the bowl with fuel and it will start and run for about 2 or 3 minutes. It will then shut off and hard to restart. Sometimes you can get it to start but the engine will rev a high rpm and then shut down. I thought my timing could be a bit off so I attempted to adjust it following the procedure laid out. But the engine died and now I cannot get it to stay running long enough to check timing. I suspect both the timing may be off, and the carburetor is out of adjustment. Can someone help steer me in the correct direction to get it running properly?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,468
I usually have to fill the bowl with fuel and it will start and run for about 2 or 3 minutes.

Ayuh,....... My guess is it ain't gettin' good gas flow,......

Start at the fuel filter, 'n go from there,.....

Use a remote tank to eliminate the boat side of the equation,.....
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Sound like the fuel pump is not pumping fuel...
 

switzer140

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 29, 2013
Messages
35
I had that thought as well, I've heard these pumps are pretty bulletproof, is it possible that the pushrod was not seated correctly during install? Do you suggest unhooking the supply from carb and cranking to verify fuel present.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
694
Put an inline fuel pressure fitting in between the fuel pump and carb.

Pumping gas openly in a container or just in the bilge is a very bad idea. Even worse idea when engine is turning over or when electrical systems are on.

Had two boat explosions with serious injuries happen in the last two weeks in my area/region. Gas vapors from leaks are deadly dangerous on boats and very likely the source of those incidents.

It may be helpful to buy a temporary testing braided flex fuel hose that fits to use with the fuel pressure fitting if you have the solid fuel line and secure it properly.

It was almost a miracle to get the solid fuel line with the pressure test fitting onto the carb of my 3.0.

Then use a universal low fuel pressure/vacuum gauge on the pressure test barb. Make sure to clamp the rubber hose properly.
 
Last edited:

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Also worth checking the suction side of the fuel pump. Before you do the pressure test, make sure the pump is not being forced to pull fuel though too much vacuum on the suction side.

That 'low pressure/vacuum' gauge havoc_squad refers to is just the tool for the job. Put the gauge in the line immediately before the pump and see what sort of vacuum it's pulling against. If it's more than a couple of inches of mercury, you need to find out why. That could also explain why you're losing pump pressure.

Chris.......
 
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