mercruiser 4.3L bellows relacement

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kulle

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Ok i did it! I think it all went well. Used the freeze and 3" ID PVC , I used a 12" piece( was a little tricky holding the pipe and block of wood w/ 1 hand and smacking with other, but it seemed to go in straight. I attached a picture of it installed and a link to a video where i test with alignment bar. Could some of you experienced gurus take a look and let me know if based on what i provided it seems like a good install? Appreciate everyone's help through my virgin boat repairs!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V4Qkno9bMOcIUK10KBvY7DOrGvaw6gBA/view
 

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altitude 411

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(non guru...) The alignment bar seems to be rotating freely but to test you should grease the end and place it into the coupler and read the witness marks, making sure the are uniform all the way around the bar.
 

achris

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That's not how you check the alignment. I have a video on it, look at that...
 

kulle

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That's not how you check the alignment. I have a video on it, look at that...

Yeah I know, I wasnt really checking the alignment, just looking for your opinion as to if it looks like its installed right.
 

kulle

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Ok i did it! I think it all went well. Used the freeze and 3" ID PVC , I used a 12" piece( was a little tricky holding the pipe and block of wood w/ 1 hand and smacking with other, but it seemed to go in straight. I attached a picture of it installed and a link to a video where i test with alignment bar. Could some of you experienced gurus take a look and let me know if based on what i provided it seems like a good install? Appreciate everyone's help through my virgin boat repairs!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V4Qkno9bMOcIUK10KBvY7DOrGvaw6gBA/view

I actually was looking at the picture of the old gimbal bearing installed and noticed there was like an 1/8" gap and with the new one it was flush, so I gave it another good 2 whacks and it went in a little further. Is there like a backstop that you can only hit the bearing in to far? Now i am afraid it's in too far? Attaching pic of OLD gimbal...my new one now has the lip noted in red. you can see from my first pic , the new did not have that lip.
 

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kulle

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Here's a link to the results of my engine alignment. The video starts off looking at top.
I think it looks ok?
 

alldodge

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If you can push it in easy with no more then 2 fingers (all the way), and pull it back out easy with 2 fingers, your good
 

kulle

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If you can push it in easy with no more then 2 fingers (all the way), and pull it back out easy with 2 fingers, your good

i doesnt go in that easy. how deep should the gimbal bearing be seated? my previous posts show the new one and the old. will it only go in so far? i want to male sure its seated all the way to avoid the bearing being cockeyed.it takes a little effort to pull oit.
 

achris

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i doesnt go in that easy. how deep should the gimbal bearing be seated? my previous posts show the new one and the old. will it only go in so far? i want to male sure its seated all the way to avoid the bearing being cockeyed.it takes a little effort to pull oit.

Drive it in until it stops.
 

alldodge

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Reach in and see if you can feel the back edge of the race against the assembly. There is not much difference there. Did you clean off the area before install?

bearing 2.jpg
 

kulle

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yeah i cleaned it up. also the drive alignment bar did initially go in and out easy, i might have moved the gimbal bearing a bit... not sure if thats throwing it off. Also i still have my bell housing off while checking alignment...shouldnt make a difference on or off should it? i put on new water hose and new trim units, just need to do the uni and exhaust bellows. guess i should reconnect the bell housing AFTER ? i connect the gimbal housing side?
 

alldodge

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Prior to inserting the alignment bar fully in "each time", the bar goes in, then the bar gets smacked by your hands, up, down, left, right a couple three times. This makes sure the bearing is centered to the coupler
 

kulle

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Prior to inserting the alignment bar fully in "each time", the bar goes in, then the bar gets smacked by your hands, up, down, left, right a couple three times. This makes sure the bearing is centered to the coupler

AllDodge - Not sure I understand, you are saying to get the bar inserted fully into the coupler, then smack it around ( at 90 degrees) and that should help center it?

You mention "prior" so it sounds like i would only insert it to the gimbal depth and just move the gimbal around, which doesnt seem to make sense,- maybe I'm reading it wrong.
 

alldodge

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No, the bar gets fully inserted, then its gets smacked around. Remove and then reinsert to check. A new bearing is very tight, and with each change in the front mounts, needs to re-center the bearing
 

kulle

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No, the bar gets fully inserted, then its gets smacked around. Remove and then reinsert to check. A new bearing is very tight, and with each change in the front mounts, needs to re-center the bearing

Ok, i'll beat it around a bit , but i didnt change anything on the engine mounts.
 

alldodge

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OK, then the bearing is as centered as can be for current motor mount position. If you can push it in and pull out with 2 fingers your good, if not, need more adjustment
 

kulle

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OK, then the bearing is as centered as can be for current motor mount position. If you can push it in and pull out with 2 fingers your good, if not, need more adjustment

Ok, understood. I'll perform the insert and beat method ( i didnt do that yet), hopefully that does the trick
 

kulle

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Throwing this out there for comments....anyone ever install both bellows with the bell housing detached or kind of dangling? I had mine off while i removed the bellows and it seemed i could gain better access..thinking maybe after attaching to gimbal side, it would be easier to fit on the bellows with more access....anyone ever do it or attempt to do it? Or is this crazy talk from me?
 

alldodge

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.anyone ever install both bellows with the bell housing detached

Don't understand, doon't know ofhow to replace the bellows "without" removing the bell housing
 
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