How do I safely replace this Bravo 1 lube hose?

tank1949

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I have MC Bravo 1s serial numbers dated at 1995 production date. They are remarkably in great shape, with very little corrosions on the outside. The inner transom plate and assemblies do have some corrosion and I will TIG to repair accordingly. Since I have both transom assemblies on my work bench and the former owner can't remember replacing bellows, I intend to replace them. I cannot find any "how to" on the most efficient procedure at replacing the OD fluid hose from the Transom assembly to the bellhousing. Must I remove all other bellows first, which will then provide more access room to reach the hose clips located within the bellhousing and transom assemblies? Or is there another more efficient method. In addition, what is this MC part number to this hose or is it std fuel line hose? Any help would be appreciated. Please see attached photo.
 

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scoflaw

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Just did my 99, no clips, barb fittings on both ends. Bell housing has to come off, and that will make your bellow install easy. Merc hose was short money.
 

tank1949

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Just did my 99, no clips, barb fittings on both ends. Bell housing has to come off, and that will make your bellow install easy. Merc hose was short money.

Mine has worm clips on both ends and very difficult to access. Any special tool needed?
 

Fun Times

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Hose # 7 is the Merc part number, OIL RESERVOIR COMPONENTS(SQUARE OIL BOTTLE)
OIL RESERVOIR COMPONENTS(ROUND OIL BOTTLE)

It seems someone may have already replaced the hose being it has different clamps than the usual Nylon type clamp like item number 6.

Once you gain some access you may be able to use a razor blade to help remove the old hose at each end vs trying to pull/twist, etc. causing other damage someplace else.

Being an 1995 your fitting at the transom side should be an metal type connector vs the plastic connector usually found after 1996-1/2.
 

tank1949

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Hose # 7 is the Merc part number, OIL RESERVOIR COMPONENTS(SQUARE OIL BOTTLE)
OIL RESERVOIR COMPONENTS(ROUND OIL BOTTLE)

It seems someone may have already replaced the hose being it has different clamps than the usual Nylon type clamp like item number 6.

Once you gain some access you may be able to use a razor blade to help remove the old hose at each end vs trying to pull/twist, etc. causing other damage someplace else.

Being an 1995 your fitting at the transom side should be an metal type connector vs the plastic connector usually found after 1996-1/2.

Even if I cut old hose to make it easy to remove, how do I compress new clips onto new hose? I understand that both ends have barbs, but I still need to clamp them. Will needle nose fit and can be used?
 

Fun Times

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If you plan to remove and install new rubber bellows then that will make access much, much easier to the oil hose during that time.

Though the service manual suggests removing the bell housing If you're just wanting to replace the gear lube hose with everything still installed then though really tough to get at there usually is just enough room by turning and lifting the ring and bell housing to use sort of long thin tools like needle nose, flat blade screwdriver, 1/4 inch swivel sockets, good lighting, etc. to perform the procedure...That's probably why the other style clamps are installed as they could be a bit easier to work with at times in tight areas like that.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...-gear-oil-line-replace-that-goes-to-out-drive

Page 4B-34+, http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/11/11b4r5x.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Mercruiser+Bravo+Transom+Repair+-+Part+1&sp=mAEB
 

tank1949

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If you plan to remove and install new rubber bellows then that will make access much, much easier to the oil hose during that time.

Though the service manual suggests removing the bell housing If you're just wanting to replace the gear lube hose with everything still installed then though really tough to get at there usually is just enough room by turning and lifting the ring and bell housing to use sort of long thin tools like needle nose, flat blade screwdriver, 1/4 inch swivel sockets, good lighting, etc. to perform the procedure...That's probably why the other style clamps are installed as they could be a bit easier to work with at times in tight areas like that.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...-gear-oil-line-replace-that-goes-to-out-drive

Page 4B-34+, http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/11/11b4r5x.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Mercruiser+Bravo+Transom+Repair+-+Part+1&sp=mAEB

I pretty much figured out that I must remove threaded part (not on bellhousing) on transom assemble. Then, hopefully hose will be free on that end. You don't happen to know what kind of hose it is? Fuel lie, etc? It looks like 1/4" barb too.
 

Fun Times

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tank1949

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tank1949

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Guess I never really paid it much attention but Merc's hose part number for the gear lube is also used for the Fuel Pressure Regulator to Intake Manifold (#32-8M0040618) Supersedes: 32-8M0062600, 32-19409 71 on EFI engines so that helps say it ought to be a vacuum hose design from the automotive side.

Item # 27, https://www.perfprotech.com/mercury-...sembly/8093/60

I ordered parts but then I ran into another issue concerning the water pickup hose after I downloaded the manual that you provided. I posted this question on the forum:
It appears MC is now recommending using 3M Brand Adhesive on Bravo 1 Bellows instead of their standard bellows adhesive. Both my Bravo 1 bellhousing and gimbal housing water hose openings are slightly worn. The groves and ridges are still there but worn due to years of corrosion. It seems to me that a good coat of 3M adhesive between hose and metal would protect existing threads AND assist the tapered insert in securing the rubber water hose to the bellhousing and transom gimbal housing. However, the manual doesn't state to use 3M on the water hose like it states for the bellows. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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