Automotive ujoints

[jakwi]

for me it was a no brainer... I was able to get OEM mercruiser off of fleaBay for $30 each

So this is why I was getting confused about the Spicer part number.

Per Marine engine:

Cross & Bearing Fits Alpha One Gen II (s/n 0D870000-0M400411) [260HP or less]

Mercury Quicksilver 805536a 2 - Cross And Bearing Qpd=t* is equivalent to parts:

• 18-2097 Sierra Marine
• 9-72406 Mallory Marine

Cross & Bearing Fits Alpha One Gen II (s/n 0M400412 and above) and Vazer [up to 300HP]

Mercury Quicksilver 865496a02 865493a01 is equivalent to parts:

• 18-6406 Sierra Marine
• MR-931 OBR Red Rhino
• 865496A02 Mercury Marine

My understanding is that the first parts listed are for 260HP or less, and the later parts are for up to 300 HP.

All of the crossreferences for spicer parts are just for the one part number. From what I can tell from this thread the spicer parts are close but not equivalent to the 260HP or less marine parts, meaning they are definitely not up the 300HP needs. In my case I have the 275 HP mercruiser.

I'm not even certain that I need ujoints, but I've noticed that my sterndrive makes a little bit of noise unless it is almost all the way down. .

 

[bman440440]

So this is why I was getting confused about the Spicer part number.

Per Marine engine:

Cross & Bearing Fits Alpha One Gen II (s/n 0D870000-0M400411) [260HP or less]

Mercury Quicksilver 805536a 2 - Cross And Bearing Qpd=t* is equivalent to parts:

• 18-2097 Sierra Marine
• 9-72406 Mallory Marine

Cross & Bearing Fits Alpha One Gen II (s/n 0M400412 and above) and Vazer [up to 300HP]

Mercury Quicksilver 865496a02 865493a01 is equivalent to parts:

• 18-6406 Sierra Marine
• MR-931 OBR Red Rhino
• 865496A02 Mercury Marine

My understanding is that the first parts listed are for 260HP or less, and the later parts are for up to 300 HP.

All of the crossreferences for spicer parts are just for the one part number. From what I can tell from this thread the spicer parts are close but not equivalent to the 260HP or less marine parts, meaning they are definitely not up the 300HP needs. In my case I have the 275 HP mercruiser.

I'm not even certain that I need ujoints, but I've noticed that my sterndrive makes a little bit of noise unless it is almost all the way down. .

does your o/d make noise when you are turning hard over? if so its time for them... my o/d is quiet anywhere in the "trim" range... but starts knocking when I'm turned hard over... I will have the u-joints I ordered today and I will let everyone know what kind they are... the o/d is off and ready for the new ones so it should be a quick install... I hope it is because I have a lobster trip planned tomorrow!!

 

[jakwi]

You know I haven't noticed it when docking which is usually the only time I'm turned to the max, but of course that is usually at idle or there about. I'll have to to pay attention the next time I have it in the water. Good luck with your repair, as far as I can tell it's a straight forward job.

 

[harringtondav]

All of the crossreferences for spicer parts are just for the one part number. From what I can tell from this thread the spicer parts are close but not equivalent to the 260HP or less marine parts, meaning they are definitely not up the 300HP needs. In my case I have the 275 HP mercruiser.

I'm not even certain that I need ujoints, but I've noticed that my sterndrive makes a little bit of noise unless it is almost all the way down. .

Apparently in 1998, s/n 0L100040 & Up Merc added a GKN drive shaft design in addition to the Meritor. The unis, center socket and engine coupler shaft are common with Bravo 1 drive shafts. I'm guessing so the higher HP Alpha II drives could live. I'm also guessing those unis are more more robust.

According to Bondo in an old post, the GKN have external snap rings. https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...of-u-joint-that-can-be-purchased-at-auto-zone

 

[bman440440]

I have to agree that these are not OEM u-joints. The ones I removed from my drive looked exactly like this... They had an M symbol and "SPORE" ??? and L15N.
It looks like KOYO is cast on the ones u bought. They look like a decent bearing manufacturer, but you didn't get OEM parts.

well I just got done and everything is installed and it went good! BTW they where genuine quicksilver u-joints part #805536A2... I forgot to take pics of them before I started

 

[scoflaw]

well I just got done and everything is installed and it went good! BTW they where genuine quicksilver u-joints part #805536A2... I forgot to take pics of them before I started

Take a pic of the packaging then.

 

[bman440440]

Take a pic of the packaging then.

??
the job is complete and I threw all the trash away... but they came in a quicksilver box and a quicksilver bag inside the box

 

[achris]

Well, I have been watching this thread with more and more disbelief.

You guys are arguing the toss on uni joints. Someone is looking to save maybe $20 on inferior unis, risking some 'more than insignificant' damage when they fail due to 'facts'.

$20! Are you serious? You'll spend more than that on the booze you take out for the day!

There's saving money, and there's being stupid. This, is being stupid.

Thread closed!