Slow Coolant Leak - Mercruiser 7.4L (454) FWC Engines after Top End Rebuild

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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1) I'd want to find out more about why your engines are pushing enough coolant out of the H/E that it overflows the reserve tank. This should not be happening. In fact the only vehicle we had that did this, was our '98 Subaru Legacy Outback when it was about to blow the head gaskets. It did this twice, once at about 109,000 miles (fixed it then) and again at 186,000 miles (traded the vehicle).
2) In reference to the question about condensation inside the manifolds causing the water to be there, hard to say. I store my boat in the same kind of conditions, ie damp winter, temps range from well over freezing to freezing, its common to see water droplets all over the outside of the engine. However, out of curiosity I will remove the oil cap to see if there is condensation inside the valve cover (or underside of oil cap) and have never seen any. So I kind of doubt that water you saw is from condensation.
3) when you did the pressure test, you tested for 15+ min, I'd want to see a longer test (like when you test a gearcase) to see if the pressure drops over time.
4) I have never air tested manifolds but have done the acetone test on my Cobra one piece manifolds, before re-installing after checking them at regular intervals due to salt water use. You might try doing this, if they are still off the boat, since what you want to know is if liquid can pass through a crack, or casting flaw. Using liquid with lower surface tension than water, may be a more valid test. I propped my Cobra manifolds up and filled with them with acetone and let them sit several hours. No leaks believe it or not.
 

aimlow

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Nov 7, 2018
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S

⦁ Do I have an expansion (puke) tank connected to the heat exchanger? Yes, what's strange with my system, I get a lot of coolant that pushes out of my engines (approx 30 oz) and it will overflow my expansion tanks. I stopped filling my expansion tanks and only fill the heat exchangers. Could the amount of coolant that pushes out of my engines have anything to do with the way my cooling system is plumbed?

Sounds like a leak of compression into the cooling system. The cooling system is maybe 15 psi max...the process of combustion can reach 2000 psi. A crack may not leak at only 15 psi, but may leak at 2000 psi.

Cracked heads? If a head gasket fire ring was leaking, it would burn thru.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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When the Subaru blew the HGs, it was classic....first black flecks in the coolant recovery tank...then bubbles....then boiling over. The way they failed was that you got combustion gas into the cooling system, causing overheating, but not antifreeze in the oil.
 

rnace

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Dec 25, 2018
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I did checked for combustion gases leaking into my cooling system at the heat exchanger with a chemical block tester and it did not detect gases. Also I didn't see violate bubble escaping out of the heat exchangers when the engines were running. I only saw small bubbles that were not very constant. The longer the engines were running the less frequent I saw the bubbles, almost like air was purging out of the system.

I;m still wondering about the impact to the coolant system with the way the mechanic installed the block off gasket between the riser and elbow and they way he re-plumbed the return hose. Mercruiser is very specific that the block off gasket must go between the manifold and riser. Why does Mercruiser want it configured this way?
 

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Lou C

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Not sure why they want it that way (riser), but an additional thought came to mind...if there was a leak in the block off plate...could it be possible that exhaust gas was getting into your coolant flow...there by pressurizing it...just like what happened with the faulty Subaru head gaskets...I know you said that you did not detect any combustion gases, still the question is interesting. Just how is the cooling system over pressurizing itself and you really should not have any bubbles in the coolant recovery tank. This in and of itself can be a sign of a leaky head gasket.

You might try bleeding all the air out with one of these....the Lisle rad funnel, they work great!
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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the HX's on the big blocks do not have enough expansion volume for the coolant. 10% expansion volume is recommended, 6% is what is needed, the HX has about 3% built into it. so 3-7% should reside in the over-flow tank

since there are 28 quarts of coolant in the system, the HX, this means that at a cold motor, there should be enough coolant in the over-flow to cover the siphon tube.

when the motor gets warm, about a quart to quart and half will be in the over-flow

as for pooling water in the ports, there should not be pooling water. maybe a bit of condensation, however never pooling water.
 

Fishhead-1

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Oct 10, 2003
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seams like they would send the raw water into the riser and out the elbow so the riser is cooled if that's what they wanted to do. I would think it would be best if the riser would be part of the fwc system like the mechanic did, don't know how that would that create a overheat condition.
 

scoflaw

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Jun 2, 2010
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seams like they would send the raw water into the riser and out the elbow so the riser is cooled if that's what they wanted to do. I would think it would be best if the riser would be part of the fwc system like the mechanic did, don't know how that would that create a overheat condition.

It wouldn't. My 2006 5.0 closed cooled came plumbed like that from Merc.
 

aimlow

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Nov 7, 2018
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If the system is full, and there is a minute crack, it may not leak until hot, however would leak when cold if the system is empty. Hence the prefered method of testing empty

How do you get that much air into the system? I 100% agree with the premise, it's just that my arm would fall off with all that pumping of a traditional tester...
 

scoflaw

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Doesn't have to be that complicated. There are 2 npt recepticles on the t-stat housing. 1 for the gauge and 1 for the shrader valve.
 
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