Raw Water Pump

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
Installed the Hardin water pump 2 seasons ago and also replaced the intake hose from the transom.

To remove and replace of the pump is a real bear on my motor because there really is no room, so have to hang upside down for the most part. Installing the first round I removed the exhaust manifold which helped. The housing has some weight which only makes things worst. Removing the hoses from the pump was hardest part, and in part because of the new hose and weight didn't help. The increased difficulty has got me thinking about going back to the composite housing.

The Hardin pump has a small spot on one side which I think may not have been machined correct;y and noticed prior to original install. The spot did mark the impeller but not enough to cause any damage. Got the Hardin pump figure it would last longer and it does, but the inner wear plate is showing some grooves, not much. Figure I can get by with another install

Have till spring to decide if the Hardin goes back on or go back to the composite. Never had any issue with the composite

Anyone know of quick connects to male NPT?

Photo1511.jpgPhoto1512.jpgPhoto1513.jpgPhoto1514.jpgspot.jpg
 

scoflaw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
962
Could probably use plastic hose nipples. Have had good luck coating the SS fittings with silicone grease.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,465
Anyone know of quick connects to male NPT?

Ayuh,..... There's many flavors of such, used in heavy equipment hydraulic installations,......
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
Ayuh,..... There's many flavors of such, used in heavy equipment hydraulic installations,......

Have looked at them, but most of those will restrict the flow due to low pressure, or at least from the ones I looked at. Most the pass thru shrinks down a bit as they pass through.

Have looked at the trash pump style but think there would be an issue of size vs adapters. Smallest I've found is 1.5" and the hose is 1.25". Could use barbed fittings, reducers and clamps, but there isn't that much room down there

Click image for larger version  Name:	158MF-NY__87875.1490394911.190.190.png Views:	1 Size:	29.1 KB ID:	10689400
 

Attachments

  • 158MF-NY__87875.1490394911.190.190.png
    158MF-NY__87875.1490394911.190.190.png
    29.1 KB · Views: 0

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
Could probably use plastic hose nipples. Have had good luck coating the SS fittings with silicone grease.

The hose ends are barbed now, and very little room to get any leverage
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,465
Ayuh,..... Do you break the hose free with a Hose Pick, before ya try pullin' the hose,..??

I donno how I got along, without my selection of Hose Picks,.....
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
Ayuh,..... Do you break the hose free with a Hose Pick, before ya try pullin' the hose,..??

I donno how I got along, without my selection of Hose Picks,.....

Yep, the hose will turn on the fitting but not slide off do to the barb.

I can pull my waterpump off just by loosening the hose clamps. And push it on just as easily. Don't gorilla the hose clamps

When my intake hose was 22 years old it came on/off easier, its now only 2 years old and this is the first time it was removed. While it did come off easier prior to the new hose, it has always been hard to do. This is the hard suction hose.

My Rinker I can kneel down beside it to do so no issue. Trying to hang on to a 10 pound pump while prying the hose off, upside down, not fun

Be glad to give someone a try doing it for me, just say the word and 2 years from now, I'll be doing it again


fetch
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
There is more room with small blocks

217916_-_photo_8_1527021729_img.jpg

A poster on OSO listed that the 496 (also 8.2) uses quick connects on the hose now.
Male 22-865362
Female 22-865324

These will work and will pick up a set to see if I can get it placed to gain access to. They will be under the motor, so that will be an issue, but may make things a tad easier :noidea:
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,064
Those quick connects are used on many engine packages.

Made the mistake of disconnecting it ONE time. Was doing an impeller job in a boat like yours. Thought it would make the job easier. Couldn't get that thing to latch back together to save my life. Pulled the other end off the water pump, still couldn't get it to lock due to the awkward angle my arms were at. Finally got a young, strong dock kid to get it latched back together.

Since than I have latched and unlatched them a few times during engine pulls. Have found that when they are out in the open, it's not bad. But if everything isn't perfectly square, it can be pretty tough.

They are pretty cheap for MerCruiser prices, about $16.00 for both sides X2 for both hoses. They might work better for you than me. But man I hate those things.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
Thanks for the post MUC, will look closer at it.

If the Admiral did say she wanted the Gen reinstalled during repower this would not be an issue. We had an issue one time when the boat was new to us and the Gen helped get us back to the dock. I wanted to leave it out because we never use it, a 1994 boat and Gen has less then 60 hours
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,064
a 1994 boat and Gen has less then 60 hours

Yes, funny thing about gen-set usage.
Seemed like 1/2 of our customers would fire up the genny before they unhooked the shore power and leave it run until they were back at the dock and plugged back in.
The other 1/2 never used theirs and we would put more hours on them during winterize/summerize than they would. Those were the ones that would get a little "unhappy" when there would be an additional charge in the fall to rebuild the carb or fuel pump so we could run it to winterize it. More than a few of them had us disconnect and mothball the genny.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,304
AD, the billet housing is soft. my assumption is that its 316 stainless which gets "gummy" when you machine it and when there is a wearing surface.

regarding the impeller wear, I would micro-polish and radius all the corners.

as far as quick connections, their sole purpose is to make the assembly process quick and easy to lower assembly costs. they are not intended to be there to make service easier, although that is how they spin it.
 
Top